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Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Very bouldery. Scramble down from above to reach this big triangular roof above 'Touchwood'.

FA: John Allen, Tobin Sorenson, 1979

FA: Re-established after a hold snapped by Paul Hoskins., 1994

2
20 Christmas Carol Trad 30m

Bald orange arete from ledge just below and right of 'Fiddler' On The Roof.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Steve Lassche, 1980

3
8 Touchwood Trad 70m

Not much good. Start about 50 metres left of Leaden Echo below black and orange buttress.

  1. 35m (8) Potter up the wasteland until a corner leads onto righthand face. Follow line left past little roof to belay beside ceiling of 'Fiddler' On The Roof.

  2. 35m (8) Around the steepening and on vaguely left up wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter, Ed Neve, 1974

4
12 Whimsical Trad 60m

The botanical corner left of Leaden Echo.

  1. 15m (12) 'Layback' easily up left to orange overhang at 5 metres, traverse 3 metres right and move up.

  2. 15m (12) V-chimney

  3. 12m (12) Bulging crack then continue on rib on right wall of corner-gully until crack peters out. Belay in gully.

  4. 18m (12) Traverse across right wall and climb arete and back left onto wall and up.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Murray Taylor, 1968

5
19 Touch and Go Trad 65m

Some exciting moves up the front of Touchstone's big block but hasn't caught on.

  1. 30m (19) Bridge against conifer and onto face 7 metres left of 'Touchstone'. Go up right to the right side of the block. Traverse left into line up centre of block and up to ledge.

  2. 30m (-) Step left to next ledge. Follow hand-crack and wall.

FA: Ed Neve, Hugh Foxcroft (alt), Garry Wills, 1980

6
14 ** Touchstone Trad 60m

Two very nice pitches.

  1. 25m (14) Follow the line diagonally left, quite tricky with poor protection, until able to go up easily. Up to right-facing corner on right side of huge block. Corner to Ledge.

  2. 25m (14) Up the face for 12 metres to where the wall steepens and continue up, veering slightly left to finish just right of the arete. The original finish traversed over to the arete.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter. Finish as described : Dan Kortschak, Jo Thomas -, 2003

7
19 * Touch-Type Trad 25m

FA: Mark Wood, Allan McCulloch, Paul Deacon, Simon Mentz

9

FA: Dan Kortschak and Jo Thomas, 2003

10
17 ** The Singing Wire Trad 60m

Nice climbing all the way; a fitting companion route to 'Touchstone'. Follows a direct, continuous crack system in three distinct parts. Some of the first pitch is not new, but the whole climb as described is a new conception.

Start: Start 3m right of Leaden

Echo.

  1. 40m (17) Climb diagonal crack up the right wall. Continue up line when it steepens and becomes thinner until a hand traverse left allows you to step across the main corner to a ledge on the left. Follow the right-hand line (the easier left-hand line is Leaden Echo) and flake system over a little roof. Continue up flake and wall to ledge (Leaden Echo's second belay).

  2. 20m (17) Up balancy seam in wall straight above belay. This is left of Leaden Echo's final corner and right of Kieran's variant finish to 'Touchstone'.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Noel Whiteside (alt)., 2003

11
10 The Leaden Echo Trad 78m

The major corner system.

  • 22m (10) After a hard start, go up easily to the next overhang, which is avoided by moving onto the right wall and up to ledge.
  • 38m (10) Traverse delicately left across corner to long flake on left wall. Up flake to ledge. Taking the corner directly is grade 11 : Garry Sudholz, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth 05-10-1968.
  • 18m (10) Chimney-corner.

FA: Chris Baxter, John Moore, Phillip Stranger, 1965

FA: Chris Baxter, John Moore, Phillip Stranger. They later returned to remove their aid point!, 1965

12
18 Silent Majority Trad 25m

Good overhang approache by abseil to final belay of 'The Leaden Echo'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Jim Grellis, 1975

13
21 Mr Buffalo Trad 25m

Taking the wall left of 'Honeycomb', it is highly likely that this is a retro-bolt of 'Adapter'.

'Access' by 25 metre abseil to small stance in corner.

14
22 Adapter Trad 27m

Apparently a rope is allowed for the descent, but not the ascent! Unfortunately it seems likely 'Mr Buffalo' is actually a retro-bolted repeat of this route.

Start: Rappel down to a small ledge 4m under the second belay of Leaden Echo.

FA: Patrick Alseby. Solo. Summer., 1998

15
22 ** Honeycomb Trad 30m

Fantastic finger-crack up the righthand wall of 'The Leaden Echo'.

Start: Either scramble in from the right to a stance or abseil 35 metres from the anchor above 'Mr Buffalo'.

FA: Tim Beaman, Chris Peisker, 1976

16
16 ** Nativity Trad 36m

Great flake line which can be escaped at half-height but why would you?

FA: Phillip Stranger, John Moore, 1967

17
19 * Psalm 69 Trad 36m

The obvious right-hand companion to 'Nativity'.

18
23 The Swarm Trad 18m

Orange arête right of Navity past 2 fixed hangers then continue direct up overhung arête on trad to finish at anchors on NDS. Vital #5 wire after 2nd bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

19

Originally called 'Nativity' Direct Start and poorly protected. Now retro-bolted and popular.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Fred Fromm, 1979

FA: Mark Moorhead, Fred Fromm, 1979

20
21 R Jugular Freeway Trad 30m

The desperate, unprotected start and the huge detached block higher up make this an unattractive proposition.

Start just left of 'Lone Pine Corner'.

FA: Paul Aubrey, Dave Fearnley, 1980

21
8 Lone Pine Corner Trad 30m

Classic, square-cut corner starting dirctly behind small pine. Finish up easy ground above corner.

FA: Keith, Timothy and Fiona Lockwood, 1993

22
16 Kabul Trad 10m

Use whatever you can to roll onto ledge above roof, and then climb corner. The grunt can be avoided to the right at about 12.

Start: Right of 'Lone Pine Corner' is another sweet little corner with a steep roof in the way at ground level.

FA: Richard Smith and Greg Pritchard, 2001