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Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route

The devestating first line on the wall. Move up, right and up to hard top-out.

A worthless direct variant (23) goes straight up from the start. Huw Lewis 21-04-1991.

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Nic Taylor, 1982

22 Don the Cockroach Trad 15m

Traverse right from start of "Cellular Destruction" to "Taste of Honey".

FA: Geoff Weigand & Russell Chudleigh, 2000


Take traverse line down right between "Cellular Destruction" and "Belly Flop" past a bolt. Now up past second bolt to letterbox slot (#2 cam). Continue through bulge into "Cellular Destruction".

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1985

22 Belly Flop Trad 25m

From ledge in gully above "High Dive" follow horizontal all the way to "A Taste Of Honey".

FA: Glenn Tempest, Mark Moorhead & Marty Beare, 1983

28 *** Lats in the Belfry Trad 25m

Start as for High Dive then at the break prior to its crux head left and launch up past cam slots to a piton, then continue through to PCL and onwards up into Cellular. Finish with the mantle on this route.

FA: paul smith

30 * You're Terminated Trad 25m

Climb "High Dive" until its crux and continue up underside of arete past 2 bolts to join "Poer, Corruption And Lies".

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1989

23 *** High Dive Trad 25m

Step right and up to break. Travere right a little then crack from break to break, cruxy move rightwards to the arete and up.

Start: About halfway up (or down) the gully where a mass of chalk shows the way to the big horizontal break.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

22 ** High Flop Trad 10m

Start up High Dive, finish up Belly Flop

24 Cavities Trad 13m


FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

21 *** A Taste of Honey Trad 27m

Absolutely thrilling.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1968


This was actually the original aid line. Traverse right along the thin crack from the fixed peg.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead, 1979

25 Savour The Flavour Trad 27m

Ultra-low variant on Taste Of Honey. Traverse right along the lowest crack, just 20cm or so above the lip, with feet swinging, to the arête, then up to the ledge.

FA: Hugh Manoid & Bud Green, 1988


Check out what is happening in High Dive Gully.