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Description

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, High Dive Gully Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Won't make many "best of" lists but the climbing is surprisingly good. Aside from the off chance of toppling 40m down the gully, it's more like a highball boulder problem.

Start up Cellular Destruction, but instead of traversing right, continue up the steep overhanging crack to top out 3m left of the finish of Cellular Destruction.

FA: Huw Lewis, 1991

From the big chalked plate at the top of the gully, move up to disappointing holds from where key gear needs to be placed, then right and up to hard (or is it ?) top-out.

Only 22 if top roped or gear is in place already

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Nic Taylor, 1982

By quite some margin the most pointless route on the wall - if not Arapiles - and included for historical reasons only.

Traverse right from start of "Cellular Destruction" through the letterbox slot on "Power Corruption and Lies" to the easy finish crack of "A Taste of Honey".

Up this if you must.

FA: Geoff Weigand & Russell Chudleigh, 1988

"Power" your way along the slopey traverse line 4m down and right of "Cellular Destruction" to a bolt.

Now up past second bolt to letterbox slot (#0.75 BD cam or better, #0.1 BD cam in the smaller gap leaving space for your hands).

Up (being careful not to escape out R to the easier ground on the arete and incur the ridicule of the climbing community) into Cellular Destruction at the end of its traverse and finish as for it, complete with its hideous mantle.

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1985

This has been a common warm up for the harder routes here since at least the 1990's so not sure of its FA details.

Starts at first bolt of Power Corruption and Lies by (clipping first, and then) leaning scarily and irreversibly across the chasm. Shorter people (under 180cm) will not be able to reach and will have to grab the bolt to start.

Swing onto the jugs (if you can reach) just under the 1st bolt and climb up past Power Corruption and Lies's 2 FH's to finish as for that route, thereby avoiding the much more difficult crux traverse.

Note: The same trick can be done at the 2nd bolt at about grade 23 or 24 and a slightly less reachy (but still intimidating) lean, avoiding Power Corruption and Lies's second crux.

Start about 5m up the gully from High Dive at an enormous horizontal break.

Forgettable traversing R-wards leads to High Dive, where instead of going up, the route (improves significantly and) continues along the lip of the roof that caps the Taste of Honey traverse, eventually joining that route.

(A much better variation is to start up High Dive and finish along this.)

FA: Glenn Tempest, Mark Moorhead & Marty Beare, 1983

Originally graded 30, it has settled as a solid grade 28 and offers the longest piece of continuous steep climbing at Arapiles.

Start as for High Dive (although the FA started by traversing in from Belly Flop).

At the major horizontal break prior to its crux head left and launch up past cam slots to a piton, don't trust this (back it up !), but continue anyway through to "Power, Corruption and Lies" and another, even more horrible piton. Ignore this and instead, clip the 2 bolts and continue straight up to finish as for Cellular Destruction.

(Don't escape off R to the arete after the letterbox slot lest you be ridiculed by the climbing community)

FA: paul smith

Climb "High Dive" until its crux and continue up underside of arete past 2 bolts to join "Power Corruption and Lies"

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1989

You're Terminated Direct. Open Project. Direct start possible (will require a bolt) up the blunt arete between Dark Matter and A Taste of Honey.

Direct finish possible straight over bulge after 2nd bolt on You're Terminated. Would make the line completely independent of Lats in the Belfry.

Climbs the inverted staircase just left of "A Taste of Honey" and is a superb companion route to it. Dave Jones used to solo this regularly as a warm up for the harder routes in this gully

Starts at a heavily chalked ledge low in the gully. Traverse R about 4 metres to a fixed wire before heading up on flat holds to the large break of Belly Flop. Traverse R to just before the arete, then up to the next break just below the first bolt of "You're Terminated" (virtually impossible to clip on this route). Now traverse with difficulty R around the arete to easier ground.

Finish up the lovely grade 10 headwall or backjump if you don't suffer from summit fever.

For gear, virtually every cam ever made could be placed at some point in this route, but a #0.3BD protects the crux on the arete nicely.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

Closed project. Dark Matter Pitch 2 - could be combined for a 40m excursion from bottom to top. Careful of rope drag - roller 'biners recommended.

Start as for High Dive, but before the major horizontal, traverse into A Taste of Honey and along its hand traverse. At the end reach back onto the Belly Flop lip and mantle it just R of the arete up to High Dive. Continue up past previously dodgy death-block (now pinned & glued, thanks Muki) staying about 1m R of the arete the entire way. Top out just R of the shared PCL / LITB / YT / CD finish.

Set by muki woods

Start up High Dive, finish up Belly Flop. All the fun of High Dive, a roof to finish and with none of the difficulty.

FA: Andrew Connolly, 1995

Open project. Has been attempted on natural gear using 19 camalots (hence the name). Ideally needs a bolt or three in strategic places to keep you away from the gully.

Start from the large grey and white ledge 8m beneath High Dive's start. Climb up overhanging corner into flared chimney and follow blunt left facing arete to High Dive's traverse.

Cross this, then up grey wall up and slightly left to Belly Flop's traverse line. Cross this, then up (careful of ledges on the side) to meet Power Corruption and Lies near its start. Cros this, then straight up to the 2nd massive jug on Cellular Destruction. Finish as for Cellular Banana.

A completely independent companion route to Lats in the Belfry, only longer.

Start just left of "A Taste of Honey Direct Start" at the bottom of the gully. Up overhanging crack (this was Kim Carrigan's "Cavities" from 1984) through bulge and off-width to a large grey and white ledge.

Continue more easily up corner to High Dive's initial traverse (thread runner) and step off left to finish. Given that the grade for the first half was 24, this may be quite solid at 23.

Set by muki woods

FA: muki woods

FFA: muki woods, 3 Nov 2015

Originally described as "contrived", this route starts around the corner to the left of A Taste of Honey Direct Start.

Climb the flaring crack through an overhanging bulge into an offwidth and up to a grey and white ledge about 8m beneath the start of High Dive. A bit dirty, but also completely superseded by Dark Matter which incorporates all of this into a longer route.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

Absolutely thrilling, difficult for the grade if you don't like having your heels above your head, and generally more difficult to second than to lead.

Start at the belay at the top of the pillar L of the Kachoong wall. This can be approached by "A Taste of Honey Direct Start", "Echo System" or the corner scramble between it and the Kachoong wall.

Up surprisingly easy overhanging crack to a very steep section beneath a roof with a fairly blank wall on the right. Traverse R across this wall using the line of jugs just below the roof with disappointingly few footholds to a ledge at the end and safety.

The route continues up on lovely rock at about grade 10 to the top.

The original aid line was the low crack (now known as "A Taste of Honey Variant") and the original free ascent (Henry Barber) used the roof crack above at the same grade but the best climbing is as described.

FFA: Hot Henry Barber

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1968

This was actually the original aid line. Traverse right along the thin crack from the fixed peg.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead, 1979

Ultra-low variant on Taste Of Honey. Traverse right along the lowest crack, just 20cm or so above the lip, with feet swinging, to the arête, then up to the ledge.

FA: Hugh Manoid & Bud Green, 1988

Activity

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