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Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Well established

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:
Quartzite

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 * Cellular Destruction

The devestating first line on the wall. Move up, right and up to hard top-out.

A worthless direct variant (23) goes straight up from the start. Huw Lewis 21-04-1991.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Nic Taylor, 1982

23
Trad 10m
2 Cellular Destruction Direct Finish
23
Trad 5m
3 Don the Cockroach

Traverse right from start of "Cellular Destruction" to "Taste of Honey".

FA: Geoff Weigand, Russell Chudleigh, 2000

22
Trad 15m
4 ** Power Corruption and Lies

Take traverse line down right between "Cellular Destruction" and "Belly Flop" past a bolt. Now up past second bolt to letterbox slot (#2 cam). Continue through bulge into "Cellular Destruction".

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1985

27
Trad 15m
5 Belly Flop

From ledge in gully above "High Dive" follow horizontal all the way to "A Taste Of Honey".

FA: Glenn Tempest, Mark Moorhead, Marty Beare, 1983

22
Trad 25m
6 *** Lats in the Belfry

Start as for High Dive then at the break prior to its crux head left and launch up past cam slots to a piton, then continue through to PCL and onwards up into Cellular. Finish with the mantle on this route.

FA: paul smith,

28
Trad 25m
7 * You're Terminated

Climb "High Dive" until its crux and continue up underside of arete past 2 bolts to join "Poer, Corruption And Lies".

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1989

30
Trad 25m
8 *** High Dive

Step right and up to break. Travere right a little then crack from break to break, cruxy move rightwards to the arete and up.

Start: Start about halway up (or down) the gully where a mass of chalk shows the way to the big horizontal break.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

23
Trad 25m
9 ** High Flop

Start up High Dive, finish up Belly Flop

22
Trad 10m
10 Cavities

Contrived.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

24
Trad 13m
11 ** A Taste of Honey Direct Start
20
Trad 15m
12 *** A Taste of Honey

Absolutely thrilling.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968

21
Trad 27m
13 * A Taste of Honey Variant

This was actually the original aid line. Traverse right along the thin crack from the fixed peg.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1979

24
Trad 27m
14 Savour The Flavour

Ultra-low variant on Taste Of Honey. Traverse right with feet swinging.

FA: Hugh Manoid, Bud Green, 1988

25
Trad 27m
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