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Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
17 Echo System Trad 13m

A good approach to 'The Golden Echo'.

Start: Start as for 'A Taste of Honey' Direct Start.

FA: Mark Witham & Michael Hartman


A great individual pitch or an approach to one of the other climbs.

FA: John Davis & Jim Smith, 1967

21 Capilano Trad 25m

Up wall to first horizontal break and traverse spectacularly left to arete and up.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Gordon McCallum & Colin Reece, 1979


Start as for 'Capilano' and continue up wall with long reaches to major horizontal. Don't escape left but keep going up for a few more moves until it eases.

FA: Paul Smith & Geoff Little, 1985

23 ** One Day Hero Mixed 15m, 2

A better direct.

Go straight up from start of Dr Paul past 2 bolts and gear.

19 Golden Echo Direct Trad 20m

The obvious wide line through the roofs above the ledge.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Bowman, 1974


This was the original route but has moprhed into a variant.

FA: John Moore, 1966


Interesting climbing through some exciting territory.

FA: Joe Friend & Ian Lewis, 1974

23 R Sounds Like Trad 35m

A scary direct start to Golden Echo.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Nick Plishko & Robin Miller, 1982

21 *** Kachoong Mixed 25m, 1

Up on jugs to rest at roof, place bomber cams and then launch out into glory across the roof into the crux at the lip. Easy up headwall to welcome belay

Start: Start at the ledge below the big roof with the chalked flakes.


The original line through the roof took the little hanging corner on the right. This is worthwhile in its own right.

FA: Dave Neilson & Chris Dewhirst, 1968


Climb to the roof (crux) and then escape out right and up easy wall.

FA: Bruno Zielke & Fred Langenhorst, 1969

23 R Achoo Trad 15m

Poorly protected start. Douglas doesn't mind at all if someone puts 2 bolts in the start.

Start: Start about 2m R of 'Kachoong'.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Gareth Llewellin, 2002

18 Ground Cummin Trad 18m

Start just left of Max and go up and slightly further left up overhanging wall. When angle eases, head up to final roof crack.

FA: Nick Neagle & Paul Francis, 1987

10 Max Trad 15m

Lovely short crack on the left side of the 'Hurts' Wall.

FA: Roland & Ann Pauligk, 1973

15 Consolation Prize Trad 15m

Slightly contrived face climbing between Max and 'Moritz'.

FA: Paul Francis & Nick Neagle, 1987

9 Moritz Trad 15m

Crack 3 metres right of Max is also quite good.

FA: Ann & Roland Pauligk, 1973


Loads of steep traversing.

FA: Simon Mentz, Scott Camps, Jared McCulloch & Andrew Eastaugh, 1988

18 Mega Trad 10m

Start L of Hurts and climb up to join Hurts where it steps L.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 2006

18 ** Hurts Trad 18m

Good, pumpy wall.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1979

23 * In Phase Trad 20m

Very good and very strenuous.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

20 Cyclic Trad 20m

Slight corner 4 metres right of 'In Phase' then traverse 3-4 metres left, over roof and up crack.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979

12 Monkey Trad 24m

Looks awful.

FA: Roland & Ann Pauligk, 1973

14 Constance Little Trad 12m

Nice little wall climb. It's not clear where this route is relative to 'Taliban Airways' and the other 2001 routes - it may be a repeat of one of them? Faces the same way as 'Hurts', Max and 'Moritz' but just one level below them.

Start: From 'Hurts', go out and drop down through the gap that leads down to Golden Echo DS and Taste of Honey. As you emerge from this chimney there is a face on the right which is undercut on its left side. Start on the right edge of the undercut.

FA: K Loughran & N Booth, 2005


Not the best part of town.

Start: Takes clean convex wall about 30m right of 'Hurts' Wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2000

12 Taliban Airways Trad 10m

(Flying into 'New York', twice daily). A good way to get up to the start of 'Kachoong' warm.

Start: Underneath the start of 'Kachoong' is a wall which the track skirts.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 2001

21 Mufti Dive Trad 10m


Start: Right of the arete is a thin wall.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Richard Smith, 2002

18 Haiku Trad 10m

The original name was:

climbing was super

on long steep juggy arete

loose jug in my hand

Start: The steep left arete of the 'Taliban Airways' wall.

FA: Richard Smith & Paul Hoskins, 2002


Start: The Right of the 'Taliban Airways' wall.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 2001


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