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Description

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Kachoong Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

A good approach to 'The Golden Echo'.

Start: Start as for 'A Taste of Honey' Direct Start.

FA: Mark Witham & Michael Hartman

A great individual pitch or an approach to one of the other climbs.

FA: John Davis & Jim Smith, 1967

Up wall to first horizontal break and traverse spectacularly left to arete and up.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Gordon McCallum & Colin Reece, 1979

Start as for 'Capilano' and continue up wall with long reaches to major horizontal. Don't escape left but keep going up for a few more moves until it eases.

FA: Paul Smith & Geoff Little, 1985

A better direct.

Go straight up from start of Dr Paul past 2 bolts and gear.

FA: Douglas Hockly & cathdv, 2015

The obvious wide line through the roofs above the ledge.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Bowman, 1974

This was the original route but has moprhed into a variant.

FA: John Moore, 1966

Interesting climbing through some exciting territory.

FA: Joe Friend & Ian Lewis, 1974

A scary direct start to Golden Echo. Looks worthless but in fact has a fascinating crux section.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Nick Plishko & Robin Miller, 1982

Up on jugs to rest at roof, place bomber cams and then launch out into glory across the roof into the crux at the lip. Easy up headwall to welcome belay

Start: Start at the ledge below the big roof with the chalked flakes.

The original line through the roof took the little hanging corner on the right. This is worthwhile in its own right.

FA: Dave Neilson & Chris Dewhirst, 1968

Climb to the roof (crux) and then escape out right and up easy wall.

FA: Bruno Zielke & Fred Langenhorst, 1969

Poorly protected start. Douglas doesn't mind at all if someone puts 2 bolts in the start.

Start: Start about 2m R of 'Kachoong'.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Gareth Llewellin, 2002

Start just left of Max and go up and slightly further left up overhanging wall. When angle eases, head up to final roof crack.

FA: Nick Neagle & Paul Francis, 1987

Lovely short crack on the left side of the 'Hurts' Wall.

FA: Roland & Ann Pauligk, 1973

Slightly contrived face climbing between Max and 'Moritz'.

FA: Paul Francis & Nick Neagle, 1987

Crack 3 metres right of Max is also quite good.

FA: Ann & Roland Pauligk, 1973

Loads of steep traversing.

FA: Simon Mentz, Scott Camps, Jared McCulloch & Andrew Eastaugh, 1988

Start L of Hurts and climb up to join Hurts where it steps L.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 2006

Good, pumpy wall.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1979

Very good and very strenuous.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

Avoids the annoying start of Cyclic and makes it into a worthwhile route, unless you are a grumpy old guidebook editor who thinks it ruins the integrity of the existing line. Up In Phase to the finger lock then step right into main line of Cyclic.

FA: Wendy Eden, cathdv & Jess Davies, 2017

Slight corner 4 metres right of 'In Phase' then traverse 3-4 metres left, over roof and up crack.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979

Looks awful.

FA: Roland & Ann Pauligk, 1973

Not the best part of town.

Start: Takes clean convex wall about 30m right of 'Hurts' Wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2000

Nice little wall climb. Faces the same way as 'Hurts', Max and 'Moritz' but just one level below them. Appears to be a repeat of A Taste of Bin Laden.

Start: From 'Hurts', go out and drop down through the gap that leads down to Golden Echo DS and Taste of Honey. As you emerge from this chimney there is a face on the right which is undercut on its left side. Start on the right edge of the undercut.

FA: K Loughran & N Booth, 2005

Start: The Right of the 'Taliban Airways' wall. Appears to be the same as Constance Little.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 2001

There are too many aretes in these route descriptions for the available cliff! Given the absence of any thin grey walls right of either arete, I am wondering if this is the thin grey wall left of the arete of CL's wall. It didn't have enough gear to inspire me to check out the grade. Or it may be squished in between Haiku Climbing was Super and CL.

Start: Right of the arete is a thin wall. ?????

FA: Paul Hoskins & Richard Smith, 2002

The original name was:

climbing was super

on long steep juggy arete

loose jug in my hand

Start: The steep left arete of the 'Taliban Airways' wall.

FA: Richard Smith & Paul Hoskins, 2002

(Flying into 'New York', twice daily). A good way to get up to the start of 'Kachoong' warm.

Even when after climbing here with the first ascentionist, we're not sure where these routes are!

Underneath the start of 'Kachoong' is a wall which the track skirts. Unless this is also squished in with Constance Little, it appears to be the line on the next short wall heading directly to the belay for Kachoong. Felt a little more like 15 though.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 2001

Beneath Kachoong, R of ATOHDS. Up rib then corner to the belay for Kachoong.

FA: Wendy Eden, Sarah, Sarah Natali & Greg Pritchard, 2017

Activity

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