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Description

The upper walls and outcrops in the gully between The Northern Group and The Far North.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach

Approach from the top as for the 'Kachoong' area but where that track swings sharply back right go out to the edge and left down a short easy gully.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
8 Better Not Peak Trad 15m

Up the crack then arete till angle eases. Follow sharp arete to spectacular summit.

Start: Start at a crack on the east face of the pinnacle.

FA: Greg Pritchard and James Falla, 1999

2
5 Noodles Romanoff Trad 45m

Follow arete all the way to top.

Start: Slightly uphill of BNP, 5 metres left (description says right but that makes no sense) of the start of 'Generation Gap', at the left arete.

FA: Greg Pritchard and James Falla, 1999

3
5 * Generation Gap Trad 42m

Pleasant easy climb up a great line.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Michael Stone, 1979

4
14 Hamish Trad 42m

Centre of the right wall of 'Generation Gap' corner

FA: Keith Lockwood, Ray Lassman, 2012

5
20 James Trad 12m

Vigorous crack through a ceiling.

Start: Start as for 'Generation Gap'.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, Michael Stone, 1979

6
19 Pumparama Trad 15m

Steep but if you have trouble on this leave the rest of the routes on this wall alone.

Start: Start at wide crack right of James.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Geoff Gledhill, 1985

7
21 Broom Hilda Trad 12m

Over roof just right of 'Pumparama' and finish up short crack.

Start: Start just right of 'Pumparama'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

8
24 Man on the Land Trad 12m

Face between 'Broom Hilda' and Evelyn, through bulge.

FA: Geoff Little, Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher, 1988

9
21 * Evelyn Trad 12m

Thin and energetic

Start: Start at thin crack 4 metres right of 'Broom Hilda'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

10

It'll be too late once you're at grips with this.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1988

11
19 Lou Trad 10m

Reputedly a tough lead.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

12

Start: Gap between Lou and Lou's not 19.

FA: Hoskins, Smith. late., 1995

13

Short seam.

Start: Start at the right hand end of the wall that contains Lou.

FA: Smith, Hoskins, late., 1995

14
8 Oompaloompa Trad 8m

Up streak and continue straight on.

Start: About 1m left of 'The First Kiddy Climb' and a bit lower is a orange streak in the middle of black.

FA: Jack Synnot, Mark Synnot, Zoe Synnot and Pete Canning, 2005

15

Not destined for greatness, but when you are only 8 and 10 years old putting up a route is exciting.

Start: 1m left of the chimney/corner (Please Don't Talk to the Lifeguard).

FA: Zoe Synnot, Mark Synnot, Jack Synnot and Pete Canning, 2005

16

Not waving, drowning.

Start: Start at the left hand edge of the wall, below a smooth black slab, 2m right of chimney/corner.

FA: Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman, 1999

17

They actually called it "About a Hedge-Whore beggar woman pretending to be sick with Saint Fiacre's Disease, and a long thick gut made by trickery came out of her bum", and then said "Don't blame me, blame Ambroise Pare".

Start: Start 5m left of chimney, right of low cave.

FA: Greg Pritchard and James Falla, 1999

18
6 About a Fat Wench Trad 20m

Originally "About a Fat Wench from Normandy, who Pretended to Have a 'Snake' in Her Belly". Hard to believe he was the father of modern surgery, isn't it?

Start: Start: On top of large boulder leaning against wall 2m left of 'Mermaid Avenue'.

FA: Greg Pritchard and James Falla, 1999

19

Up chimney for three metres and then swing left onto arete. Follow this to top.

Start: Start: At the base of 'Mermaid Avenue'.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, 1999

20
7 * Mermaid Avenue Trad 25m

An old fashioned line, or is that lane, as in bus? Good.

Start: Between Lou and 'Stone Age' there is an obvious large chimney in the middle of a sizeable wall. This line is 'Mermaid Avenue'.

FA: Greg Pritchard and Paul Hoskins, 1999

21

Start: Start as for 'Mermaid Avenue'.

FA: Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman, 1999

22
15 Queequeg Trad 20m

Swing desperately over rattly lip of cave; continue in line more pleasantly.

Start: Seam between 'Mermaid Avenue' and 'Narwhal Avenue'. It's about 2m right of 'The Police Gospel Quartet' arete.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Peter Canning, 2005

23
4 * Narwhal Avenue Trad 20m

Fun.

Start: Start: Right of 'Mermaid Avenue' and before the arete of 'Manatee Fair' there is a crack line up the wall.

FA: Greg Pritchard and Paul Hoskins, 1999

24
12 * Manatee Fair Trad 20m

The best of the lot. Originally graded 10.

Start: Start 5m right of 'Mermaid Avenue' just left of arete.

FA: Greg Pritchard and James Falla, 1999

25

Not very long and pretty unpalatable.

Start: Start in the chimney that 'Stone Age' starts in.

FA: James Falla and Greg Pritchard, 1999

26
16 * Stone Age Trad 15m

Much nicer than it looks.

Start: The buttress right of 'Manatee Fair' has a thin seam up a slab capped by a roof.

FA: Mike Stone, Chris Baxter, 1985

27
9 Poles Apart Trad 15m

Delightful doddle.

Start: Start just right of 'Stone Age'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1985

28

You know what to do.

Start: Start: 2m right of 'Poles Apart' at another line of cracks.

FA: Greg Pritchard and Paul Hoskins, 1999

29
4 Frog Death Trad 15m

Start: Start: 2m right of 'Melville's Moby Dick Ooh Er'.

FA: Greg Pritchard, James Falla, 1999

30

Does your pussy do the dog? 10m.

Start: Start: 8m up the hill from 'Because It's There' at point where climbing looks possible. Below end of horizontal break that splits the cliff.

FA: James Falla and Greg Pritchard, 1999

31
21 Because It's There Trad 15m

Unusual scooped face across gully from and facing 'Stone Age'.

Start: Start towards right.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1988

32
19 Help Meet Trad 15m

Anything that does not kill you must make you stranger.

Start: Start: In the gully behind 'Because It's There' at the right end of a small white wall beneath a large fallen tree.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, 1999

33

Harder than it looks. Needed two leaders to push this mighty 15m line to the top!

Start: Start to left of wall, 1m right of arete.

FA: Greg Pritchard and James Falla, 1999

34
12 Declan the Crab Trad 15m

No joke. (2 pitches for a 15m route is a bit of a joke though?!)

Start: Start on the right side of this wall.

FA: James Falla and Greg Pritchard, 1999

35

Up cracks then through 'interesting' headwall.

Start: Start: On the next tall buttress down the gully is a wall with an obvious crack on the right.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, 1999

36

Up this, curving left at top then up.

Start: Start: On the next buttress down from 'The Dwarves of Towyn', in the middle of the south face, is an obvious shallow corner.

FA: James Falla and Greg Pritchard, 1999

37
17 Black Legend Trad 20m

Directly opposite PB is small wall up on a terrace. In middle of wall is obvious crack (grade 6).

FA: Glen Donohue, Peter Cunningham, 1987

38

Line 4 metres right of Grade 6 crack.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Glenn Donohue, 1987