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Description

The upper walls and outcrops in the gully between The Northern Group and The Far North.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Kachoong Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Approach from the top as for the 'Kachoong' area but where that track swings sharply back right go out to the edge and left down a short easy gully.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Does your pussy do the dog? 10m.

Start: Start: 8m up the hill from 'Because It's There' at point where climbing looks possible. Below end of horizontal break that splits the cliff.

FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999

2
21 Because It's There Trad 15m

Face with wide horizontal across up high on other side of gully gully from and facing 'Stone Age'.

Start: Start towards right (presumably at crack) hard start to fishish more easily at right side of large roof.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988

3
19 Help Meet Trad 15m

The next few routes are in a hidden gully running in between the Lou and Evelyn gully and PB gully. They look better in this topo than they do from the base of the climbs.

Anything that does not kill you must make you stranger.

Start: In the gully behind the pinnacle with 'Because It's There' at the right end of a small white wall beneath a large fallen tree.

FA: Jon Bassindale & Greg Pritchard, 1999

4

Harder than it looks. Needed two leaders to push this mighty 15m line to the top!

Start: Start to left of wall, 1m right of arete.

FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

5
12 Declan the Crab Trad 15m

No joke. (2 pitches for a 15m route is a bit of a joke though?!)

Start: Start on the left side of this wall.

FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999

6

Up cracks then through 'interesting' headwall.

Start: Start: On the next tall buttress down the gully is a wall with an obvious crack on the right.

FA: Jon Bassindale & Greg Pritchard, 1999

7

Up this, curving left at top then up.

Start: Start: On the next buttress down from 'The Dwarves of Towyn', in the middle of the south face, is an obvious shallow corner.

FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999

8
17 Black Legend Trad 20m

Directly opposite PB is small wall up on a terrace. In middle of wall is obvious crack (grade 6).

FA: Glen Donohue & Peter Cunningham, 1987

9

Line 4 metres right of Grade 6 crack.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Glenn Donohue, 1987

Activity

Check out what is happening in Nameless Gully.