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Table of contents

1. Northern Group 198 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.834837, -36.749740

Description:© (willmonks)

Status : All climbs are in with descriptions. Topos urgently needed.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting October-December 2014 Cassandra Eurydice Raptors are nesting on these climbs. Please avoid the climbs until the young leave the nest (mid-December).

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

1.1. Henry Bolte Wall 28 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:© (willmonks)

Almost every hold has it's own name.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Get Your Bloody Fingers Out of My Nostrils

Start as for "Follow Your Nose" then climb straight up from horizontal on jugs to a crux mantle at top.

FA: Lionel Clay, Kurt Smith, 1986

18Trad 10m
2 Follow Your Nose Direct Start

Harder and bolder than the original.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Follow Your Nose".

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1989

24 RTrad 8m
3 Follow Your Nose

Very pumpy.

Start: Start near the top left end of the wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Dave Fearnley, Ian Anger, 1982

22Mixed 12m, 1
4 Dropkick The Fucking Carburettor Down The Pines

Traverse as for "Follow Your Nose" and keep going, past "The Fortress" to a bolt on "Lord Of The Rings".

Start: Start as for "Follow Your Nose"

FA: James Falla, Paul Hoskins, 1987

21Trad 20m
5 ** The Fortress

A few pieces of gear required higher up. Sustained wall leftward past 2 bolts. At jugs, move right and up. (A pumpy variant is to go left instead and finish up Follow Your Nose).

Start: Start 6 metres right of "Follow Your Nose".

FA: Dave Fearnley, Mark Moorhead via start from left. As described Kim Carrigan, 1982

26Sport 18m
6 * Gridlock

Straightens out Slinkin'.

Start: Start as for Slinkin'.

FA: Dave Jones, 1998

29Trad 22m
7 *** Slinkin' Leopard

Surely one of the best route names in the country.

Start: Start 3m R of 'The Fortress'.

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984

28Trad 30m
8 * Zorlac The Destroyer

A righthand finish to Slinkin'.

Start: Start as for Slinkin'.

FFA: Jerry Mot, 1992

31Trad 30m
9 Andrew and Ferret's Bogus Journey

From belay chain on "Slinkin Leopard" step left then up through small cave, back right and up.

FA: Andrew Lindblade, Ian Anger, 1991

22Trad 12m
10 ** Wackford Squeers Direct

Very hard crux down low

26Trad 15m
11 ** Wackford Squeers

Brilliant route. Take small cams (00 Friend) + some medium cams (.3BD, .5BD, .75BD) for after the 3 bolts on the traverse.

Start: Start 4 metres down from "Slinkin Leopard".

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983

26Sport 30m, 3
12 ** Lord Of The Rings Direct

Start at the weakness down right of "Wackford Squeers" and go fairly much straight up.

FA: Nick Sutter early 1990s, 2000

31Unknown 20m
13 * Chuckles Bolty

FA: Nathan Hoette

30Trad
14 *** Lord of the Rings

The "crazy linkup" of this route into Slinkin' Leopard was done by Nathan Hoette at grade 30 in 2004.

Start: Start as for "Wackford Squeers".

FA: Stefan Glowacz

31Trad 25m
15 Straight Outta Compton

AKA Straight Outta Wackford.

FA: Geoff Weigand. Carrigan had climbed the lower section on, 1985

30Trad 25m
16 Going For The One

The original route on the wall is quite good but rope drag can be a problem.

Start: Start at obviuos weakness right of "Wackford Squeers", as for "Lord Of The Rings Direct".

FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff, 1977

20Trad 40m
17 ** Bolte Wackford 26Trad
18 *** Henry Bolte

Superb thin face-climbing. (#2 Wallnut after the first bolt, .75BD in the break after the 3rd bolt + a few more cams in the higher easier section to DBB) Start: Start just right of "Going For The One"

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Mark Moorhead, 1983

25Sport 30m, 3
19 Got It!

Some bouldery moves. There's a good plunge if you miss the final lunge.

Start: Start just right of "Henry Bolte"

FA: Kim Carrigan, Geoff Weigand, Brian Wright, 1981

23Trad 45m
20 * Barbed

A good easy route on a great wall deserves a star. Pitch 2 is really good and eats cams. Great on a warm day.

Start: Down and right of the other routes is a prominent crack leading to a bottomless chimney.

  1. 13m (17) Crack and chimney to terrace.

  2. 29m (16) Easily up on right for 3 metres to the big diagonal ledge/break. Traverse down left to the end of the break and step left onto the wall. Continue up steep, juggy wall right of "Going For The One".

FA: Peter Watling, Andrew Hebdon, 1981

17Trad 42m
21 Gurtle Tier

Line of bolts to a lower-off right of "Barbed".

FA: Two Germans., 1996

23Mixed 25m, 2
22 White on Black

Up for 2 metres then traverse right to pockets and up brushed wall to ledge. Rap as for "Gurtle Tier".

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Barbed" at a short, steep flake.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mike Broadbent, Louise Shepherd, 1982

23Trad 12m
23 School for Scandal 23Trad 25m
24 The CIown

Not great. Well up the gully left of the main buttress, almost to 'Henry Bolte Wall', is a narrow chimney.

  1. 12m (12) Struggle up chimney.

  2. 36m (-) Traverse right onto easy-angled shoulder and on to nice layback crack on right. After this, move past large ledge and up corner to another wide ledge. An alternative is to move left at the start of the pitch and go up unleasant narrow chimney (grade 12).

  3. 30m (7) As for final pitch of 'Beau Geste'

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris Dewhirst, John Moore. Pitch 2 variant : Garry Sudholz, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth.., 1968

12Trad 78m
25 * Serious Callers Only

Pretty good climbing and protection. Start just right of second pitch of 'Barbed'. Access via abseil anchor of 'Not Invented Here'. Easily up to the big break. Straight up the short overhanging wall, 1 metre right of a left-leading diagonal line, to a good flake. Up 3 metres to top of flake, step right and up water-washed streak to little bulge and up to easier ground. Continue straight up through bulges at top.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, 2012

18Trad 28m
26 * Not Invented Here

Might seem a bit contrived to people too short to do the move past the bolt at a reasonable grade. Access via 25 metre rappel from anchor above this climb. Double set cams to #1 Camalot, plus 1 each #2 and #4. Easy up to the ledge-break and up the short overhanging wall 1.5 metres right of 'Serious Callers Only'. Reach straight up the smooth wall past the bolt then right a little and up on killer incuts to left side of the roof of 'Clear Conscience'. Swing right above overhang and go up to rap anchor.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, 2011

19Mixed 25m, 1
27 * Zero Gravitas

Start at belay anchor for 'Not Invented Here' Up onto the big break and traverse 3 metres right to FH below short, shallow corner. Short jump or hard moves into corner and up to good stance. Up wall (2 FH) to roof then follow seam up steep wall above roof (FH) then final, easier bulge.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Louise Shepherd, Norm Booth, 2012

20Mixed 25m, 4
28 Clear Conscience

"An obvious leftward-curving line starting high up on the buttress, not far right of the all finish of 'Going For The One' ." The Carrigan guide (ad hence the Shepherd one) has it starting 2 metres right of pitch 2 of 'Barbed' but that doesn't fit the description of the start "under a tight, awkward roof". In fact it appears to be the huge roof-flake up high on the right, which is on the left of the final scramble section of 'Beau Geste' etc. Approach from the right under a tight, awkward roof and then follow the diagonal line over some steep walls and overhangs.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff, 1977

16Trad 20m

1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area 26 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.835107, -36.750769

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Henry's Sample Is Missing

This pleasant, easy crack midway between The Clown and 'Court Jester' was probably first soloed by Louise to get access to the top of School For Scandal during her massive cleaning exercise.

8Trad 12m
2 Court Jester

Wanders up the left side of the buttresses. A bit scrappy but worth a look.

Start some distance uphill of 'Beau Geste', just left of a deep horizontal break.

  1. 24m (10) An undercut start leads into a wide crack. At top, step right and up to ledge.

  2. 10m (-) The crack above.

  3. 18m (10) Pull up steep wall and continue upo crack and jug-strewn wall.

  4. 20m (10) 'Layback' crack on steep wall up left to terrace.

  5. 30m (12) Pull up on flat holds just right of undercut arete and then up to top. This is just left of Beau Geste's final pitch.

FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, Laurie Beesley, 1965

12Trad 100m
3 Last Remake

Not a bad pitch. Could be used as a start for 'Artificial Insemination'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Jopie Bodegraven, Robert Knox, 1980

12Trad 25m
4 A Whale Of A Time

Another pleasant ramble.

Start: At toe of buttress just left of "Beau Geste"

  1. 35m (-) Follow prominent line until it fizzles out. Step right and up to good ledge. This pitch has also been climbed slightly to the left.

  2. 25m (-) Up front right side of buttress, over overhang and nice wall then up next wall past ironstone jugs to spacious upper ledge. The first two pitches have been climbed as one but rope-drag is a problem.

  3. 25m (14) Climb prominent crack, curving right to arete. Climb arete and continue easily. Belay near top of major left-leading diagonal.

  4. 20m (-) Broken corner to big ledge.

  5. 30m (-) Top pitch of "Beau Geste"

FA: Keith and Tim Lockwood, 2010

14Trad 140m
5 A Whale Of A Time Variant

A good pitch but a bit out of place with only easy options for approach and finish.

Start: Start at second belay; this is also the second belay of "Beau Geste", at the top of the neat little corner.

FA: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

17Trad 25m
6 * A Whale Of A Time Direct Finish

This great little pitch is not really more direct but it is a good finish to this route, especially if done with the Grade 17 variant, or to "Artificial Insemination". Tiny cams are essential.

Start: Start around left of the top pitch of "Beau Geste" at a prominent corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, 2010

18Trad 12m
7 ** Beau Geste

A great adventure.

Start below major chimney on left side of cliff.

Note that numerous variants are possible, and have been done, from the middle of pitch 3 to the terrace at the end of pitch 4.

  1. 50m (9) Up wall then chimney to terrace.

  2. 13m (9) Just to the right is a short, right-facing corner. Up this and step right to belay.

  3. 18m (9) Up righthand V-corner to roof. Move left under roof then step right and up to ledge.

  4. 25m (9) 'Diagonal' up right (as for Tale Of Woe) to huge terrace.

  5. 30m (7) Pull onto wall right of undercut arete, traverse right and go up on horizontal breaks approximately 6 metres right of arete. At ledge, move left and up. The fingery wall just right of the arete is Court Jester's finish.

10Trad 140m
8 Artificial Insemination

A fairly good direct line with a few nice sections and an exciting finish around the overhang at the top of the face. Big cams needed on first 2 pitches.

Even better if finished via Noddy's face around left of last pitch of 'Beau Geste'.

Start: Start from the terrace, at the base of Beau Geste's second pitch corner.

  1. 20m (13) Follow right-leading ramp, then wide crack to ledge. There other belay options higher, including a tiny stance just below the roof but this is probably the most convenient spot.

  2. 25m (18) Continue up the line to the roof with a difficult section not far below the roof. Exposed moves out to and around the lip of the major roof-crack.

  3. 30m (7) Final ptich of 'Beau Geste'.

FA: Roger Webb, Phillip Armstrong. Phillip had climbed the crux overhang with Eddie Ozols, Mark Shelton two months earlier., 1977

18Trad 130m
9 BA Mosquito

Pleasant access route to the big terrace.

FA: Heather Phillips, Bill Andrews, 1983

6Trad 45m
10 Trouble With Lichen

Follow 2 corners to easy ground, aiming for large left-facing flake. Pass this on left and up.

Start: Start at short corner 2 metres right of 'BA Mosquito'.

FA: Bill Andrews and GIT course member, 1981

11Trad 45m
11 * Tale of Woe

A popular outing following the prominent diagonal line. Not really sure that it warrants a star though.

  1. 30m (8) Follow the major left-leading diagonal from the terrace until it ends. Belay on ledge past first little cave.

  2. 25m (9) Diagonally right, passing large roofs on the right, finishing over a little bulge.

  3. 30m (7) As for the final pitch of 'Beau Geste'.

FA: Mike Stone, Chris Baxter, 1973

9Trad 85m
12 Bung

Looks great but is just OK.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Doug and Beryl Palmen, 1977

13Trad 45m
13 XXXX

Similar to Bung.

FA: Allan Hope, Bill Andrews, 1983

12Trad 45m
14 ** Harlequin Cracks

The long corner of the first pitch is lovely.

  1. 36m (10) Up line to ledge taking care with some loose blocks just before the belay.

  2. 12m (8) Avoid the bottomless chimney (grade 12) by climbing the face out right up to the terrace.

  3. 32m (10) The best line is to continue up the left-facing corner directly above. Alternatively, traverse 3 metres right to a shallow corner. Up this, loose blocks to ledge, traverse 5 metres right to another corner and up to top.

FA: Ted Batty, Bob Bull, Peter Jackson. Pitch 3 corner : Rob Taylor, Daryl Carr., 1966

11Trad 80m
15 Columbine Corner

Start: Start as for "Harlequin Cracks

  1. 15m (18) Take short orange corner just right of main line. Step right at roof and up to peregrine ledge. Seam to right of corner is also grade 18 but mossy)

  2. 33m (-) Pull over into line above and follow all way, with slight step left half-way up, on orange rock.

FA: Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood, 2010

18Trad 48m
16 * Calabrese

Very good, but beware the runout halfway up the 1st pitch. Some say that the poor protection is not a problem given the straightforward nature of the climbing. However there is also the case of a leader who backed off this and went on to 'Orestes' for his next,successful, climb.

Start: Start 4m L of 'Salami'.

  1. 25m (17) Not well protected through half height, although technically not too hard. Crack to ledge at 3m. Take fading crack then face, and traverse 2m R to flake. Up it to ledge then up wall.

  2. 15m (17) Easy crack then R to slabby splitter crack. At the top traverse R over blocks to belay at the top of Salami's chimney.

  3. 15m (-) The crack up the middle of the buttress between 'Salami' and 'Salami' DF, with a fun roof.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Bill Andrews (alt), 1982

17 RTrad 55m
17 * Salami
  1. 36m (11) Monster left-facing corner to ledge on right.

  2. 15m (9) Move left under overhangs to a sharp, undercut flake. Up the flake to ledge.

  3. 30m (10) Either scramble up to the right or, from left side of large,scrubby ledge and undercut start leads to shallow, right-facing corner.

FA: Peter Jackson, Chris Baxter, 1965

11Trad 83m
18 Salami Direct Finish

A good finish for 'Salami', starting from the first belay.

FA: Daryl Carr, Jerry Grandage, 1965

11Trad 27m
19 Where the F are we

This monster corner-chimney is not only good fun, but benefits from coming into shade early in the day, but last pitch is in full sun. Great 1st and last pitches with some scrap in the middle.

  1. 36m (11) Monster left-facing corner to ledge on right.

  2. 11m (5) traverse, through crack to the right to belay.

  3. 10m (1-2) scramble up to small boulder next belay.

  4. 15m (6) up small face to the right, follow up and around left to overhang and ledge.

  5. 25m (12) from end (rightmost) overhang, crux first move out over the overhang for an awesome finish.

Walk off the back to finish and down trail to left.

Set by Geoff, 2013

FFA: 2013

FA: Geoff, Alicia, Jason, Holly, 2013

12Trad 97m
20 * Industrial Muscle

From 'Salami', move right onto wall at horizontal break. Up past bolt then up and left to crescent-shaped ledge. Up this to second bolt then hard moves up right.

FA: Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson, 1988

26Mixed 30m, 2
21 * The Age of Stainless

As for IM, then take extended leftward finish up the mighty headwall. 30 metre rappel.

Start: Start as for 'Industrial Muscle'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2003

25Trad 35m
22 Better to Marry Than to Burn

From conifer below 'Salami' climb face on right for 2 metres. Traverse right to weakness in bulge, then straight up.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, Dave Gairns, Keith Lockwood, 1983

15Trad 40m
23 Happy-go-Lucky

Prominent broken diagonal right of 'Salami'.

Start at short red corner some metres right of 'Salami'.

  1. 30m (12) Follow red corner then taverse right across mossy slabs to base of diagonal. Belay a few metres higher.

  2. 23m (12) Take the diagonal, ignoring branch on right wall to big ledge.

  3. 15m (12) Follow either of 2 short corners to next ledge.

  4. 23m (12) The diagonal continues to tricky exit above 'Salami' Corner.

FA: Peter Watling, Anita Lundberg (alt), 1984

12Trad 91m
24 Goonkachoong

Takes the prominent roof.

FA: Dave Mudie, Dennis Kemp, 1989

16Trad 15m
25 Stop lt Or You'll Go Blind

Climb middle of face right of 'Goonkachoong'.

FA: Dennis Kemp, Dave Mudie, 1989

14Trad 15m
26 The Met

Good corner.

FA: Peter Watling, Anita Lundberg, 1984

13Trad 20m

1.3. Mysteries Wall 29 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Tigger

Old Paul Hoskins project re-equipped and sent. Ultra-smeary!

Start: Start on left side of 'Mysteries Wall' proper.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004

27Trad 12m
2 * Rosshalde

A fingery and scary start and exciting finish up the headwall. #4 cam could be handy.

Start: Start to the left of the major crack on the left side of the wall.

FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham. Geoff Weigand soloed finish February 1985., 1979

20 RTrad 35m
3 * Model Phantom

Thin stuff.

Start: Start as for Blue-Eyed And Blond.

FA: Geoff Weigand., 1985

27Mixed 35m, 2
4 ** Blue-Eyed and Blond

The most attractive climb here. Luckily the desperate clip has been eliminated.

Start: Start below vertical seam (with PR) that crosses a diagonal line (Mysteries) a few metres up.

FA: Chris Shepherd., 1984

24Trad 30m
5 * Mysteries

The diagonal crack leading left into 'Rosshalde' is slick and fiddly to protect but good fun higher up.

  1. 15m (23) Take the diagonal crack into 'Rosshalde' and belay under the roof.

  2. 20m (21) Up to roof, traverse out right and up steep face.

FA: Lincoln and Chris Shepherd (pitch 1). Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead (pitch 2) 1981., 1980

23Trad 45m
6 * Modern History

Fights its way up the real-estate right of 'Modern History'. It may be better to start up 'Modern History' than up 'Mysteries'.

Start: Start as for 'Mysteries'

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

23Trad 35m
7 * Historic Events

Climb directly past two bolts into 'Modern History'. Either finish up that climb (as originally done) or continue straight up and into Blue Eyed and Blonde.

Start: Start just right of 'Mysteries'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

26Mixed 30m, 2
8 Short 'n' Sharp

Serious unprotected overhung arete right of 'Historic Events'. A rope would serve only to stop a plummet all the way down the gully below.

FA: Geoff Weigand (solo), 1985

25 XTrad 15m
9 Spanish Eyes

Hard dyno up the overhanging line onto the wall. Rather than following easy crack (Gardener's Delight), go left across wall and around arete to finish up flat-tops.

Start: Start at the cave about 3 metres right of 'Historic Events'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Steve Lassche, 2000

20Trad 30m
10 * Spanish Gardener

Start up the second pitch of Gardener's Delight and finish up Spanish Eyes.

17Trad 25m
11 Cundall's Arete

Pull up onto wall as for Gardener's Delight and drift right and up sharp arete. The wall between this climb and Gardener's Delight has been top-roped from the rappel rings.

Start: Start at the arete 3 metres right of the cave of 'Spanish Eyes'.

FA: Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman, 1998

15Trad 15m
12 A Night to Remember

Nice line with fiddly pro.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Steve Lassche, 1980

17Trad 15m
13 Honey Pot

A bolted boulder problem. The holds are generally good, but seeing as they are all vertical - guess what that means for the feet? 'Dynamic' and very powerful.

FA: Nathan Hoette

29Sport 5m
14 Project 32Trad 12m
15 * Pancho And Pedro Go Bolting

The first route established on this wall. One bolt. Hard start from pockets leads to an easier mid-section.

FA: Tom Greenwood, 1989

25Trad 15m
16 * Bottom Feeder

A direct start to 'Anus Horribilus'. Start as for that route but go straight up through a small undercling to the 2nd bolt. Cruxy moves lead into the finish of the original route.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2004

25Trad 15m
17 ** Anus Horribilus

A classic at the grade. Bouldery start leads to quite continuous climbing on good slopey holds. Steeper than it looks!

FA: Dave Jones, 1998

25Trad 15m
18 *** Pooh Connection

Climbs the direct start to Pooh Sticks and links that route into Anus Horribilus. Despite being slightly contrived, a brilliant conception. Two distinct halves offering Blue Mountains like crimping to start, followed by gritty slopers.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004

29Sport 30m
19 * Pooh Sticks

Nowadays largely ignored but still worth doing in it's own right. Originally started by stepping off the pillar into the line but now incorporates the direct start from the ground. Where the connection moves left into 'Anus Horribilus', continue straight up via the traditionally protected arete.

FA: Roland Foster, 1989

27Mixed 22m, 3
20 Super Pooh

Tweaky

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008

28Sport 15m, 5
21 * Eeyore's Thistle's

Good route but runout.

Start: Slab route immediately right (around corner) from 'Poosticks'.

FA: Andrew Martin

17 RMixed 20m, 2
22 * Mohawkman

2 rings plus a handful of cams to summit loweroff. The linkup of the start of this route into the finish of 'Mr Hanky' is about 15.

Start: Lefthand slab route on detached wall around the corner from 'Poosticks'.

FA: Joel Wilson

19Mixed 12m, 2
23 Mohawk Hanky

The natural line on the face, avoiding the hard bits of the other two routes. Quite sustained. Take a few cams with a couple of #1 and #3 in the mix.

15Trad 14m
24 * Mr Hanky

Has a ring with a hard clip for the hard start then drops off several grades. Summit loweroff.

Start: Righthand slab route with hard start on detached wall around the corner from 'Poosticks'.

FA: Joel Wilson

21Mixed 12m, 1
25 * Gardener's Delight

First pitch doesn't get a lot of traffic so can be dirty. Great second pitch.

Start: Start at the rounded arete, about the same place as Eeyores Thistles.

  1. 26m (12) Diagonally up wall to short left-facing corner. Up this, over the small overhang and up the line to the terrace.

  2. 18m (11) Pull up onto the undercut wall 3 metres right of the cave (Spanish Eyes starts at the cave) and traverse left to the prominent crack. Up this to finish right of the overhang.

FA: Jerry Grandage, Rob Taylor (alt) and Daryl Carr, Andrew Smith, 1966

12Trad 60m
26 * A Goat's Song

Sustained face climbing, spoiled a bit by the big ledge at half-height. Wires and cams up to #1 plus #3.5 cam.

Start: Start at black face just right of 'Beached Wails'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman., 1998

17Mixed 25m, 3
27 * 100 Acre Wood

Ultra technical face climbing.

Start: Attractive orange streak at the very base of 'Mysteries' 'Gully' (downhill from Goats Song).

FA: Steve Kelly, 2004

25Mixed 12m, 3
28 Beached Wails

Looks good but poorly protected, somewhat contrived andgenerally not much fun. The best bit is that the first ascent team got to the top, found they were on a pinnacle and started bemoaning that they would have to leave gear behind. Then HB poked his head over the top on the short side...

Start: Down right of the 'Mohawkman' face on a narrow south-east face just left of a wide crack.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Moss, 1983

16Trad 40m
29 Things Fall Apart

Good first pitch but be careful to avoid the dangerous hollow flake immediately left of the start.

Start: Start below a crack about 10 metres down right of A Goat\'s Song.

  1. 12m (19) Climb past the bolt to the crack, avoiding touching the flake that is on your left. Finger-crack and thinning seam to large ledge.

  2. 18m (14) Move right and up to next ledge. Climb the wall to ledge with abseil anchors for A Goat's Song.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, 1998

19Mixed 30m, 1

1.4. Shiralee Wall 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (willmonks)

Shiralee Wall bounds the lower left side of the broad gully - Nameless 'Gully' between the 'Northern Group' and the 'Far Northern'.

Approach:© (willmonks)

The climbs here are generally accessed from below.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A Gift From the Gods

The good section hardly makes up for the horrible start and way off.

Start: At lowest point on wall.

FA: Keith Egerton, Andrew Corlass, Kieran Loughran, Ed Neve, Craig Nottle, 1984

22 RMixed 25m, 1
2 Who Rolled the Stone?

Better than AGFTG despite sharing the start and much the same finish

Start: As for A Gift From The Gods.

  1. 25m (19) Up the mossy slab then take orange diagonal on the steep wall just right. At the top of the diagonal, step right and up through overhang to ledge.

  2. 25m (-) Line on right wall of gully.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns and Mike Stone, 1984

19Trad 50m
3 Stone's Throw

Start: As for A Gift From The Gods.

  1. 25m (18) Diagonally right up moss to ledge. Climb wall above a faint rock scar, thence up left into lichenous weakness and back right to stance.

  2. 25m (-) Straight up, heading right at top.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter and Mike Stone, Peter Woolford, 1984

18Trad 50m
4 * Banshee

Absorbing. Protection is a bit fiddly to get though it is good on the hardest moves.

Start: Originally started as for A Gift From The Gods but is better as for 'Dingbats'.

  1. 20m (17) Go up to ledge. Step right and go straight up compact orange rock being careful not to stray right into 'Dingbats'.

  2. 30m (-) Up slightly left on good rock to easy finish. Better would be to traverse easily right for 10 metres to the Shiraleee abseil anchor.

FA: Keih Lockwood, Rick Hatch and Ray Lassman, 1983

17Trad 50m
5 Dingbats

Start: 4 metres left of 'The Shiralee'.

  1. 20m (14) Straight up then step left to gain ramp leading diagonally right.

  2. 30m (14) Step left and climb bulging groove on good rock.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Tony Yap. Start as described by Chris Baxter et al., 1984

14Trad 50m
6 * The Shiralee

Tenuous climbing into the orange scoops that would have been very scary before microcams. Deserves to be climbed more often and might be now that the abseil anchor has gone in

Put up in a rainstorm during which a child almost drowned in Central Gully!

Start: Start below line of orange scoops.

  1. 25m (15) Climb easily up just left of the smooth face to orange rock and up into the line to the overhang. Traverse right and then back left above the overhang to rap-anchor.

  2. 30m (9) Abseil off of follow jugs up the line.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Reg Marron, 1973

15Trad 55m
7 * The Shiralee Direct

A direct start and finish to 'The Shiralee' makes for a very good climb. Take some tiny cams and a #3 (blue) Camalot in your rack.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2009

19Mixed 20m, 1
8 The Crumpet Didn't Front

Terrible name but the climb looks better than the name suggests.

Start: Start at short crack 6 metres right (Shepherd guide, original description says 3) of 'The Shiralee'.

FA: Chris baxter, Keith Lockwood., 1983

17Trad 40m
9 Lacuna

The left arete of the 'Heath Row' buttress. Start as for 'Trotskyist Tendency' and after the initial black bulge, continue up the arete.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, 2012

15Trad 40m
10 Trotskyist Tendency

Climbs the centre of the face left of 'Maiden Voyeur' despite continually heading for the left wing. Good climbing throughout but the regular need to step back right to avoid the left arete detracts a bit. Take cams up to 3.5 (blue Camalot). Belay as for Heath Row or on a small stance a few metres higher below the left-hand diagonal line. Move up left to the bulge at the start of the face and pull over onto the black face. Continue, keeping right of the arête. At each bolt, step right below it and climb straight past. Belay on a ledge about 5 metres above the third bolt. Scramble, roped up about another 10 metres to another good ledge that leads off into the gully below Hurts.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Steve Greig, 2012

19Mixed 35m, 3
11 * Maiden Voyeur

No prizes for guessing who put this up. Following the left-most of the ddiagonal lines this is quite a good climb. Used to be hard to locate because the guidebooks mangled the writeups of this and 'Mammary Lane'.

Start: Start as for 'Heath Row' Go up into the left crack and take the wide layback flake (big cam). Finish up nice thin crack.

FA: Michael Stone, Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1979

15Trad 42m
12 Mammary Lane

This and 'Maiden Voyeur' were described in the wrong order in the guidebooks so it was hard to work out where things went. The FA date in the Shepherd guide was also incorrect. The majority of this climb is very easy but the upper wall is great.

Start: Start as for 'Heath Row'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Mike Stone, 1979

15Trad 42m
13 Heath Row

Looks quite pleasant despite the odd small shrub. Was upgraded to 15 in Carrigan guide; someone must have strayed onto the then unclimbed Maiden Voyeur!

Start: There is a small square chipped in the rock at the base of the route.

FA: Ann and Roland Pauligk, 1973

8Trad 48m

1.5. Echo Crag 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fiddler on the Roof

Very bouldery. Scramble down from above to reach this big triangular roof above 'Touchwood'.

FA: John Allen, Tobin Sorenson, 1979

FA: Re-established after a hold snapped by Paul Hoskins., 1994

26Trad 35m
2 Christmas Carol

Bald orange arete from ledge just below and right of 'Fiddler' On The Roof.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Steve Lassche, 1980

20Trad 30m
3 Touchwood

Not much good. Start about 50 metres left of Leaden Echo below black and orange buttress.

  1. 35m (8) Potter up the wasteland until a corner leads onto righthand face. Follow line left past little roof to belay beside ceiling of 'Fiddler' On The Roof.

  2. 35m (8) Around the steepening and on vaguely left up wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter, Ed Neve, 1974

8Trad 70m
4 Whimsical

The botanical corner left of Leaden Echo.

  1. 15m (12) 'Layback' easily up left to orange overhang at 5 metres, traverse 3 metres right and move up.

  2. 15m (12) V-chimney

  3. 12m (12) Bulging crack then continue on rib on right wall of corner-gully until crack peters out. Belay in gully.

  4. 18m (12) Traverse across right wall and climb arete and back left onto wall and up.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Murray Taylor, 1968

12Trad 60m
5 Touch and Go

Some exciting moves up the front of Touchstone's big block but hasn't caught on.

  1. 30m (19) Bridge against conifer and onto face 7 metres left of 'Touchstone'. Go up right to the right side of the block. Traverse left into line up centre of block and up to ledge.

  2. 30m (-) Step left to next ledge. Follow hand-crack and wall.

FA: Ed Neve, Hugh Foxcroft (alt), Garry Wills, 1980

19Trad 65m
6 ** Touchstone

Two very nice pitches.

  1. 25m (14) Follow the line diagonally left, quite tricky with poor protection, until able to go up easily. Up to right-facing corner on right side of huge block. Corner to Ledge.

  2. 25m (14) Up the face for 12 metres to where the wall steepens and continue up, veering slightly left to finish just right of the arete. The original finish traversed over to the arete.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter. Finish as described : Dan Kortschak, Jo Thomas -, 2003

14Trad 60m
7 * Touch-Type

FA: Mark Wood, Allan McCulloch, Paul Deacon, Simon Mentz

19Trad 25m
8 Touchstone Right Hand Finish 17Trad 25m
9 ** What the Fuck is Pluto?

FA: Dan Kortschak and Jo Thomas, 2003

15Trad 60m
10 ** The Singing Wire

Nice climbing all the way; a fitting companion route to 'Touchstone'. Follows a direct, continuous crack system in three distinct parts. Some of the first pitch is not new, but the whole climb as described is a new conception.

Start: Start 3m right of Leaden

Echo.

  1. 40m (17) Climb diagonal crack up the right wall. Continue up line when it steepens and becomes thinner until a hand traverse left allows you to step across the main corner to a ledge on the left. Follow the right-hand line (the easier left-hand line is Leaden Echo) and flake system over a little roof. Continue up flake and wall to ledge (Leaden Echo's second belay).

  2. 20m (17) Up balancy seam in wall straight above belay. This is left of Leaden Echo's final corner and right of Kieran's variant finish to 'Touchstone'.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Noel Whiteside (alt)., 2003

17Trad 60m
11 The Leaden Echo

The major corner system.

  • 22m (10) After a hard start, go up easily to the next overhang, which is avoided by moving onto the right wall and up to ledge.
  • 38m (10) Traverse delicately left across corner to long flake on left wall. Up flake to ledge. Taking the corner directly is grade 11 : Garry Sudholz, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth 05-10-1968.
  • 18m (10) Chimney-corner.

FA: Chris Baxter, John Moore, Phillip Stranger, 1965

FA: Chris Baxter, John Moore, Phillip Stranger. They later returned to remove their aid point!, 1965

10Trad 78m
12 Silent Majority

Good overhang approache by abseil to final belay of 'The Leaden Echo'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Jim Grellis, 1975

18Trad 25m
13 Mr Buffalo

Taking the wall left of 'Honeycomb', it is highly likely that this is a retro-bolt of 'Adapter'.

'Access' by 25 metre abseil to small stance in corner.

21Trad 25m
14 Adapter

Apparently a rope is allowed for the descent, but not the ascent! Unfortunately it seems likely 'Mr Buffalo' is actually a retro-bolted repeat of this route.

Start: Rappel down to a small ledge 4m under the second belay of Leaden Echo.

FA: Patrick Alseby. Solo. Summer., 1998

22Trad 27m
15 ** Honeycomb

Fantastic finger-crack up the righthand wall of 'The Leaden Echo'.

Start: Either scramble in from the right to a stance or abseil 35 metres from the anchor above 'Mr Buffalo'.

FA: Tim Beaman, Chris Peisker, 1976

22Trad 30m
16 ** Nativity

Great flake line which can be escaped at half-height but why would you?

FA: Phillip Stranger, John Moore, 1967

16Trad 36m
17 * Psalm 69

The obvious right-hand companion to 'Nativity'.

19Trad 36m
18 The Swarm

Orange arête right of Navity past 2 fixed hangers then continue direct up overhung arête on trad to finish at anchors on NDS. Vital #5 wire after 2nd bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

23Trad 18m
19 * Jesus Built My Hotrod / Nativity Direct Start

Originally called 'Nativity' Direct Start and poorly protected. Now retro-bolted and popular.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Fred Fromm, 1979

FA: Mark Moorhead, Fred Fromm, 1979

21Sport 15m, 4
20 Jugular Freeway

The desperate, unprotected start and the huge detached block higher up make this an unattractive proposition.

Start just left of 'Lone Pine Corner'.

FA: Paul Aubrey, Dave Fearnley, 1980

21 RTrad 30m
21 Lone Pine Corner

Classic, square-cut corner starting dirctly behind small pine. Finish up easy ground above corner.

FA: Keith, Timothy and Fiona Lockwood, 1993

8Trad 30m
22 Kabul

Use whatever you can to roll onto ledge above roof, and then climb corner. The grunt can be avoided to the right at about 12.

Start: Right of 'Lone Pine Corner' is another sweet little corner with a steep roof in the way at ground level.

FA: Richard Smith and Greg Pritchard, 2001

16Trad 10m

1.6. High Dive Gully 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cellular Destruction

The devestating first line on the wall. Move up, right and up to hard top-out.

A worthless direct variant (23) goes straight up from the start. Huw Lewis 21-04-1991.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Nic Taylor, 1982

23Trad 10m
2 Cellular Destruction Direct Finish 23Trad 5m
3 Don the Cockroach

Traverse right from start of "Cellular Destruction" to "Taste of Honey".

FA: Geoff Weigand, Russell Chudleigh, 2000

22Trad 15m
4 ** Power Corruption and Lies

Take traverse line down right between "Cellular Destruction" and "Belly Flop" past a bolt. Now up past second bolt to letterbox slot (#2 cam). Continue through bulge into "Cellular Destruction".

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1985

27Trad 15m
5 Belly Flop

From ledge in gully above "High Dive" follow horizontal all the way to "A Taste Of Honey".

FA: Glenn Tempest, Mark Moorhead, Marty Beare, 1983

22Trad 25m
6 *** Lats in the Belfry

Start as for High Dive then at the break prior to its crux head left and launch up past cam slots to a piton, then continue through to PCL and onwards up into Cellular. Finish with the mantle on this route.

FA: paul smith

28Trad 25m
7 * You're Terminated

Climb "High Dive" until its crux and continue up underside of arete past 2 bolts to join "Poer, Corruption And Lies".

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1989

30Trad 25m
8 *** High Dive

Step right and up to break. Travere right a little then crack from break to break, cruxy move rightwards to the arete and up.

Start: Start about halway up (or down) the gully where a mass of chalk shows the way to the big horizontal break.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

23Trad 25m
9 ** High Flop

Start up High Dive, finish up Belly Flop

22Trad 10m
10 Cavities

Contrived.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

24Trad 13m
11 ** A Taste of Honey Direct Start 20Trad 15m
12 *** A Taste of Honey

Absolutely thrilling.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968

21Trad 27m
13 * A Taste of Honey Variant

This was actually the original aid line. Traverse right along the thin crack from the fixed peg.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1979

24Trad 27m
14 Savour The Flavour

Ultra-low variant on Taste Of Honey. Traverse right with feet swinging.

FA: Hugh Manoid, Bud Green, 1988

25Trad 27m

1.7. Kachoong Area 28 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Echo System

A good approach to 'The Golden Echo'.

Start: Start as for 'A Taste of Honey' Direct Start.

FA: Mark Witham, Michael Hartman

17Trad 13m
2 ** Taste of Honey Direct Start

A great individual pitch or an approach to one of the other climbs.

FA: John Davis, Jim Smith, 1967

20Trad 13m
3 Capilano

Up wall to first horizontal break and traverse spectacularly left to arete and up.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Gordon McCallum, Colin Reece, 1979

21Trad 25m
4 * Dr. Paul and the Amazing Dancing Gnome

Start as for 'Capilano' and continue up wall with long reaches to major horizontal. Don't escape left but keep going up for a few more moves until it eases.

FA: Paul Smith, Geoff Little, 1985

21Trad 25m
5 Golden Echo Direct

The obvious wide line through the roofs above the ledge.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Bowman, 1974

19Trad 20m
6 * Golden Echo Variant

This was the original route but has moprhed into a variant.

FA: John Moore, 1966

18Trad 25m
7 ** Golden Echo / The Golden Echo

Interesting climbing through some exciting territory.

FA: Joe Friend, Ian Lewis, 1974

18Trad 25m
8 Sounds Like

A scary direct start to Golden Echo.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Nick Plishko, Robin Miller, 1982

23 RTrad 35m
9 *** Kachoong

Up on jugs to rest at roof, place bomber cams and then launch out into glory across the roof into the crux at the lip. Easy up headwall to welcome belay

Start: Start at the ledge below the big roof with the chalked flakes.

21Mixed 25m, 1
10 * Kachoong Right Hand Variant

The original line through the roof took the little hanging corner on the right. This is worthwhile in its own right.

FA: Dave Neilson, Chris Dewhirst, 1968

21Trad 25m
11 Kachoong Piker's Variant

Climb to the roof (crux) and then escape out right and up easy wall.

FA: Bruno Zielke, Fred Langenhorst, 1969

19Trad 20m
12 Achoo

Poorly protected start. Douglas doesn't mind at all if someone puts 2 bolts in the start.

Start: Start about 2m R of 'Kachoong'.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Gareth Llewellin, 2002

23 RTrad 15m
13 Ground Cummin

Start just left of Max and go up and slightly further left up overhanging wall. When angle eases, head up to final roof crack.

FA: Nick Neagle, Paul Francis, 1987

18Trad 18m
14 Max

Lovely short crack on the left side of the 'Hurts' Wall.

FA: Roland and Ann Pauligk, 1973

10Trad 15m
15 Consolation Prize

Slightly contrived face climbing between Max and 'Moritz'.

FA: Paul Francis, Nick Neagle, 1987

15Trad 15m
16 Moritz

Crack 3 metres right of Max is also quite good.

FA: Ann and Roland Pauligk, 1973

9Trad 15m
17 Santa Claus Conquers the Martians

Loads of steep traversing.

FA: Simon Mentz, Scott Camps, Jared McCulloch, Andrew Eastaugh, 1988

21Trad 20m
18 Mega

Start L of Hurts and climb up to join Hurts where it steps L.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 2006

18Trad 10m
19 * Hurts

Good, pumpy wall.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, 1979

18Trad 18m
20 * In Phase

Very good and very strenuous.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

23Trad 20m
21 * Cyclic

Slight corner 4 metres right of 'In Phase' then traverse 3-4 metres left, over roof and up crack.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1979

20Trad 20m
22 Monkey

Looks awful.

FA: Roland and Ann Pauligk, 1973

12Trad 24m
23 Constance Little

Nice little wall climb. It's not clear where this route is relative to 'Taliban Airways' and the other 2001 routes - it may be a repeat of one of them? Faces the same way as 'Hurts', Max and 'Moritz' but just one level below them.

Start: From 'Hurts', go out and drop down through the gap that leads down to Golden Echo DS and Taste of Honey. As you emerge from this chimney there is a face on the right which is undercut on its left side. Start on the right edge of the undercut.

FA: K Loughran, N Booth, 2005

14Trad 12m
24 Low-rent Rendezvous

Not the best part of town.

Start: Takes clean convex wall about 30m right of 'Hurts' Wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 2000

15Trad 15m
25 Taliban Airways

(Flying into 'New York', twice daily). A good way to get up to the start of 'Kachoong' warm.

Start: Underneath the start of 'Kachoong' is a wall which the track skirts.

FA: Richard Smith and Greg Pritchard, 2001

12Trad 10m
26 Mufti Dive

Up.

Start: Right of the arete is a thin wall.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Richard Smith, 2002

21Trad 10m
27 Haiku

The original name was:

climbing was super

on long steep juggy arete

loose jug in my hand

Start: The steep left arete of the 'Taliban Airways' wall.

FA: Richard Smith, Paul Hoskins, 2002

18Trad 10m
28 A Taste of Bin Laden

Start: The Right of the 'Taliban Airways' wall.

FA: Richard Smith and Greg Pritchard, 2001

13Trad 10m

1.8. Nameless Gully 38 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The upper walls and outcrops in the gully between The Northern Group and The Far North.

Approach:

Approach from the top as for the 'Kachoong' area but where that track swings sharply back right go out to the edge and left down a short easy gully.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Better Not Peak

Up the crack then arete till angle eases. Follow sharp arete to spectacular summit.

Start: Start at a crack on the east face of the pinnacle.

FA: Greg Pritchard and James Falla, 1999

8Trad 15m
2 Noodles Romanoff

Follow arete all the way to top.

Start: Slightly uphill of BNP, 5 metres left (description says right but that makes no sense) of the start of 'Generation Gap', at the left arete.

FA: Greg Pritchard and James Falla, 1999

5Trad 45m
3 * Generation Gap

Pleasant easy climb up a great line.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Michael Stone, 1979

5Trad 42m
4 Hamish

Centre of the right wall of 'Generation Gap' corner

FA: Keith Lockwood, Ray Lassman, 2012

14Trad 42m
5 James

Vigorous crack through a ceiling.

Start: Start as for 'Generation Gap'.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, Michael Stone, 1979

20Trad 12m
6 Pumparama

Steep but if you have trouble on this leave the rest of the routes on this wall alone.

Start: Start at wide crack right of James.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Geoff Gledhill, 1985

19Trad 15m
7 Broom Hilda

Over roof just right of 'Pumparama' and finish up short crack.

Start: Start just right of 'Pumparama'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

21Trad 12m
8 Man on the Land

Face between 'Broom Hilda' and Evelyn, through bulge.

FA: Geoff Little, Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher, 1988

24Trad 12m
9 * Evelyn

Thin and energetic

Start: Start at thin crack 4 metres right of 'Broom Hilda'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

21Trad 12m
10 Order Your Christmas Poultry Now

It'll be too late once you're at grips with this.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1988

23Trad 12m
11 Lou

Reputedly a tough lead.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

19Trad 10m
12 Greg Will be Pleased

Start: Gap between Lou and Lou's not 19.

FA: Hoskins, Smith. late., 1995

20Trad 9m
13 Lou's Not 19 (Anymore)

Short seam.

Start: Start at the right hand end of the wall that contains Lou.

FA: Smith, Hoskins, late., 1995

17Trad 9m
14 Oompaloompa

Up streak and continue straight on.

Start: About 1m left of 'The First Kiddy Climb' and a bit lower is a orange streak in the middle of black.

FA: Jack Synnot, Mark Synnot, Zoe Synnot and Pete Canning, 2005

8Trad 8m
15 The First Kiddy Climb

Not destined for greatness, but when you are only 8 and 10 years old putting up a route is exciting.

Start: 1m left of the chimney/corner (Please Don't Talk to the Lifeguard).

FA: Zoe Synnot, Mark Synnot, Jack Synnot and Pete Canning, 2005

8Trad 8m
16 Please Don't Talk to the Lifeguard

Not waving, drowning.

Start: Start at the left hand edge of the wall, below a smooth black slab, 2m right of chimney/corner.

FA: Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman, 1999

17 RTrad 10m
17 About a Hedge-Whore

They actually called it "About a Hedge-Whore beggar woman pretending to be sick with Saint Fiacre's Disease, and a long thick gut made by trickery came out of her bum", and then said "Don't blame me, blame Ambroise Pare".

Start: Start 5m left of chimney, right of low cave.

FA: Greg Pritchard and James Falla, 1999

10Trad 20m
18 About a Fat Wench

Originally "About a Fat Wench from Normandy, who Pretended to Have a 'Snake' in Her Belly". Hard to believe he was the father of modern surgery, isn't it?

Start: Start: On top of large boulder leaning against wall 2m left of 'Mermaid Avenue'.

FA: Greg Pritchard and James Falla, 1999

6Trad 20m
19 A Cure for Moby Dick

Up chimney for three metres and then swing left onto arete. Follow this to top.

Start: Start: At the base of 'Mermaid Avenue'.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, 1999

14Trad 25m
20 * Mermaid Avenue

An old fashioned line, or is that lane, as in bus? Good.

Start: Between Lou and 'Stone Age' there is an obvious large chimney in the middle of a sizeable wall. This line is 'Mermaid Avenue'.

FA: Greg Pritchard and Paul Hoskins, 1999

7Trad 25m
21 The Police Gospel Quartet

Start: Start as for 'Mermaid Avenue'.

FA: Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman, 1999

12Trad 25m
22 Queequeg

Swing desperately over rattly lip of cave; continue in line more pleasantly.

Start: Seam between 'Mermaid Avenue' and 'Narwhal Avenue'. It's about 2m right of 'The Police Gospel Quartet' arete.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Peter Canning, 2005

15Trad 20m
23 * Narwhal Avenue

Fun.

Start: Start: Right of 'Mermaid Avenue' and before the arete of 'Manatee Fair' there is a crack line up the wall.

FA: Greg Pritchard and Paul Hoskins, 1999

4Trad 20m
24 * Manatee Fair

The best of the lot. Originally graded 10.

Start: Start 5m right of 'Mermaid Avenue' just left of arete.

FA: Greg Pritchard and James Falla, 1999

12Trad 20m
25 Jonathon Livingstone Baitfish

Not very long and pretty unpalatable.

Start: Start in the chimney that 'Stone Age' starts in.

FA: James Falla and Greg Pritchard, 1999

12Trad 20m
26 * Stone Age

Much nicer than it looks.

Start: The buttress right of 'Manatee Fair' has a thin seam up a slab capped by a roof.

FA: Mike Stone, Chris Baxter, 1985

16Trad 15m
27 Poles Apart

Delightful doddle.

Start: Start just right of 'Stone Age'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1985

9Trad 15m
28 Melville's Moby Dick, Ooh Er

You know what to do.

Start: Start: 2m right of 'Poles Apart' at another line of cracks.

FA: Greg Pritchard and Paul Hoskins, 1999

6Trad 15m
29 Frog Death

Start: Start: 2m right of 'Melville's Moby Dick Ooh Er'.

FA: Greg Pritchard, James Falla, 1999

4Trad 15m
30 The Climb Who Shagged Me

Does your pussy do the dog? 10m.

Start: Start: 8m up the hill from 'Because It's There' at point where climbing looks possible. Below end of horizontal break that splits the cliff.

FA: James Falla and Greg Pritchard, 1999

18Trad 10m
31 Because It's There

Unusual scooped face across gully from and facing 'Stone Age'.

Start: Start towards right.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1988

21Trad 15m
32 Help Meet

Anything that does not kill you must make you stranger.

Start: Start: In the gully behind 'Because It's There' at the right end of a small white wall beneath a large fallen tree.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, 1999

19Trad 15m
33 The Lobster Princess

Harder than it looks. Needed two leaders to push this mighty 15m line to the top!

Start: Start to left of wall, 1m right of arete.

FA: Greg Pritchard and James Falla, 1999

16Trad 15m
34 Declan the Crab

No joke. (2 pitches for a 15m route is a bit of a joke though?!)

Start: Start on the right side of this wall.

FA: James Falla and Greg Pritchard, 1999

12Trad 15m
35 The Dwarves of Towyn

Up cracks then through 'interesting' headwall.

Start: Start: On the next tall buttress down the gully is a wall with an obvious crack on the right.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, 1999

17Trad 20m
36 Just another crappy route from late last century

Up this, curving left at top then up.

Start: Start: On the next buttress down from 'The Dwarves of Towyn', in the middle of the south face, is an obvious shallow corner.

FA: James Falla and Greg Pritchard, 1999

16Trad 15m
37 Black Legend

Directly opposite PB is small wall up on a terrace. In middle of wall is obvious crack (grade 6).

FA: Glen Donohue, Peter Cunningham, 1987

17Trad 20m
38 Is The Pope A Catholic?

Line 4 metres right of Grade 6 crack.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Glenn Donohue, 1987

12Trad 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
4 Frog Death Trad 15m 1.8. Nameless Gully
* Narwhal Avenue Trad 20m 1.8. Nameless Gully
5 * Generation Gap Trad 42m 1.8. Nameless Gully
Noodles Romanoff Trad 45m 1.8. Nameless Gully
6 BA Mosquito Trad 45m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
About a Fat Wench Trad 20m 1.8. Nameless Gully
Melville's Moby Dick, Ooh Er Trad 15m 1.8. Nameless Gully
7 * Mermaid Avenue Trad 25m 1.8. Nameless Gully
8 Henry's Sample Is Missing Trad 12m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
Heath Row Trad 48m 1.4. Shiralee Wall
Lone Pine Corner Trad 30m 1.5. Echo Crag
Touchwood Trad 70m 1.5. Echo Crag
Better Not Peak Trad 15m 1.8. Nameless Gully
Oompaloompa Trad 8m 1.8. Nameless Gully
The First Kiddy Climb Trad 8m 1.8. Nameless Gully
9 * Tale of Woe Trad 85m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
Moritz Trad 15m 1.7. Kachoong Area
Poles Apart Trad 15m 1.8. Nameless Gully
10 ** Beau Geste Trad 140m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
The Leaden Echo Trad 78m 1.5. Echo Crag
Max Trad 15m 1.7. Kachoong Area
About a Hedge-Whore Trad 20m 1.8. Nameless Gully
11 ** Harlequin Cracks Trad 80m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
* Salami Trad 83m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
Salami Direct Finish Trad 27m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
Trouble With Lichen Trad 45m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
12 The CIown Trad 78m 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
Court Jester Trad 100m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
Happy-go-Lucky Trad 91m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
Last Remake Trad 25m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
Where the F are we Trad 97m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
XXXX Trad 45m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
* Gardener's Delight Trad 60m 1.3. Mysteries Wall
Whimsical Trad 60m 1.5. Echo Crag
Monkey Trad 24m 1.7. Kachoong Area
Taliban Airways Trad 10m 1.7. Kachoong Area
Declan the Crab Trad 15m 1.8. Nameless Gully
Is The Pope A Catholic? Trad 15m 1.8. Nameless Gully
Jonathon Livingstone Baitfish Trad 20m 1.8. Nameless Gully
* Manatee Fair Trad 20m 1.8. Nameless Gully
The Police Gospel Quartet Trad 25m 1.8. Nameless Gully
13 Bung Trad 45m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
The Met Trad 20m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
A Taste of Bin Laden Trad 10m 1.7. Kachoong Area
14 A Whale Of A Time Trad 140m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
Stop lt Or You'll Go Blind Trad 15m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
Dingbats Trad 50m 1.4. Shiralee Wall
** Touchstone Trad 60m 1.5. Echo Crag
Constance Little Trad 12m 1.7. Kachoong Area
A Cure for Moby Dick Trad 25m 1.8. Nameless Gully
Hamish Trad 42m 1.8. Nameless Gully
15 Better to Marry Than to Burn Trad 40m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
Cundall's Arete Trad 15m 1.3. Mysteries Wall
Mohawk Hanky Trad 14m 1.3. Mysteries Wall
Lacuna Trad 40m 1.4. Shiralee Wall
* Maiden Voyeur Trad 42m 1.4. Shiralee Wall
Mammary Lane Trad 42m 1.4. Shiralee Wall
* The Shiralee Trad 55m 1.4. Shiralee Wall
** What the Fuck is Pluto? Trad 60m 1.5. Echo Crag
Consolation Prize Trad 15m 1.7. Kachoong Area
Low-rent Rendezvous Trad 15m 1.7. Kachoong Area
Queequeg Trad 20m 1.8. Nameless Gully
16 Clear Conscience Trad 20m 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
Goonkachoong Trad 15m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
Beached Wails Trad 40m 1.3. Mysteries Wall
Kabul Trad 10m 1.5. Echo Crag
** Nativity Trad 36m 1.5. Echo Crag
Just another crappy route from late last century Trad 15m 1.8. Nameless Gully
* Stone Age Trad 15m 1.8. Nameless Gully
The Lobster Princess Trad 15m 1.8. Nameless Gully
17 * Barbed Trad 42m 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
A Whale Of A Time Variant Trad 25m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
* Calabrese Trad 55m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
* A Goat's Song Mixed 25m, 3 1.3. Mysteries Wall
A Night to Remember Trad 15m 1.3. Mysteries Wall
* Eeyore's Thistle's Mixed 20m, 2 1.3. Mysteries Wall
* Spanish Gardener Trad 25m 1.3. Mysteries Wall
* Banshee Trad 50m 1.4. Shiralee Wall
The Crumpet Didn't Front Trad 40m 1.4. Shiralee Wall
** The Singing Wire Trad 60m 1.5. Echo Crag
Touchstone Right Hand Finish Trad 25m 1.5. Echo Crag
Echo System Trad 13m 1.7. Kachoong Area
Black Legend Trad 20m 1.8. Nameless Gully
Lou's Not 19 (Anymore) Trad 9m 1.8. Nameless Gully
Please Don't Talk to the Lifeguard Trad 10m 1.8. Nameless Gully
The Dwarves of Towyn Trad 20m 1.8. Nameless Gully
18 Get Your Bloody Fingers Out of My Nostrils Trad 10m 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
* Serious Callers Only Trad 28m 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
* A Whale Of A Time Direct Finish Trad 12m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
Artificial Insemination Trad 130m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
Columbine Corner Trad 48m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
Stone's Throw Trad 50m 1.4. Shiralee Wall
Silent Majority Trad 25m 1.5. Echo Crag
** Golden Echo Trad 25m 1.7. Kachoong Area
* Golden Echo Variant Trad 25m 1.7. Kachoong Area
Ground Cummin Trad 18m 1.7. Kachoong Area
Haiku Trad 10m 1.7. Kachoong Area
* Hurts Trad 18m 1.7. Kachoong Area
Mega Trad 10m 1.7. Kachoong Area
The Climb Who Shagged Me Trad 10m 1.8. Nameless Gully
19 * Not Invented Here Mixed 25m, 1 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
* Mohawkman Mixed 12m, 2 1.3. Mysteries Wall
Things Fall Apart Mixed 30m, 1 1.3. Mysteries Wall
* The Shiralee Direct Mixed 20m, 1 1.4. Shiralee Wall
Trotskyist Tendency Mixed 35m, 3 1.4. Shiralee Wall
Who Rolled the Stone? Trad 50m 1.4. Shiralee Wall
* Psalm 69 Trad 36m 1.5. Echo Crag
Touch and Go Trad 65m 1.5. Echo Crag
* Touch-Type Trad 25m 1.5. Echo Crag
Golden Echo Direct Trad 20m 1.7. Kachoong Area
Kachoong Piker's Variant Trad 20m 1.7. Kachoong Area
Help Meet Trad 15m 1.8. Nameless Gully
Lou Trad 10m 1.8. Nameless Gully
Pumparama Trad 15m 1.8. Nameless Gully
20 Going For The One Trad 40m 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
* Zero Gravitas Mixed 25m, 4 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
* Rosshalde Trad 35m 1.3. Mysteries Wall
Spanish Eyes Trad 30m 1.3. Mysteries Wall
Christmas Carol Trad 30m 1.5. Echo Crag
** A Taste of Honey Direct Start Trad 15m 1.6. High Dive Gully
* Cyclic Trad 20m 1.7. Kachoong Area
** Taste of Honey Direct Start Trad 13m 1.7. Kachoong Area
Greg Will be Pleased Trad 9m 1.8. Nameless Gully
James Trad 12m 1.8. Nameless Gully
21 Dropkick The Fucking Carburettor Down The Pines Trad 20m 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
* Mr Hanky Mixed 12m, 1 1.3. Mysteries Wall
* Jesus Built My Hotrod Sport 15m, 4 1.5. Echo Crag
Jugular Freeway Trad 30m 1.5. Echo Crag
Mr Buffalo Trad 25m 1.5. Echo Crag
*** A Taste of Honey Trad 27m 1.6. High Dive Gully
Capilano Trad 25m 1.7. Kachoong Area
* Dr. Paul and the Amazing Dancing Gnome Trad 25m 1.7. Kachoong Area
*** Kachoong Mixed 25m, 1 1.7. Kachoong Area
* Kachoong Right Hand Variant Trad 25m 1.7. Kachoong Area
Mufti Dive Trad 10m 1.7. Kachoong Area
Santa Claus Conquers the Martians Trad 20m 1.7. Kachoong Area
Because It's There Trad 15m 1.8. Nameless Gully
Broom Hilda Trad 12m 1.8. Nameless Gully
* Evelyn Trad 12m 1.8. Nameless Gully
22 Andrew and Ferret's Bogus Journey Trad 12m 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
Follow Your Nose Mixed 12m, 1 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
A Gift From the Gods Mixed 25m, 1 1.4. Shiralee Wall
Adapter Trad 27m 1.5. Echo Crag
** Honeycomb Trad 30m 1.5. Echo Crag
Belly Flop Trad 25m 1.6. High Dive Gully
Don the Cockroach Trad 15m 1.6. High Dive Gully
** High Flop Trad 10m 1.6. High Dive Gully
23 Got It! Trad 45m 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
Gurtle Tier Mixed 25m, 2 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
School for Scandal Trad 25m 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
White on Black Trad 12m 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
* Modern History Trad 35m 1.3. Mysteries Wall
* Mysteries Trad 45m 1.3. Mysteries Wall
The Swarm Trad 18m 1.5. Echo Crag
Cellular Destruction Trad 10m 1.6. High Dive Gully
Cellular Destruction Direct Finish Trad 5m 1.6. High Dive Gully
*** High Dive Trad 25m 1.6. High Dive Gully
Achoo Trad 15m 1.7. Kachoong Area
* In Phase Trad 20m 1.7. Kachoong Area
Sounds Like Trad 35m 1.7. Kachoong Area
Order Your Christmas Poultry Now Trad 12m 1.8. Nameless Gully
24 Follow Your Nose Direct Start Trad 8m 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
** Blue-Eyed and Blond Trad 30m 1.3. Mysteries Wall
* A Taste of Honey Variant Trad 27m 1.6. High Dive Gully
Cavities Trad 13m 1.6. High Dive Gully
Man on the Land Trad 12m 1.8. Nameless Gully
25 *** Henry Bolte Sport 30m, 3 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
* The Age of Stainless Trad 35m 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
* 100 Acre Wood Mixed 12m, 3 1.3. Mysteries Wall
** Anus Horribilus Trad 15m 1.3. Mysteries Wall
* Bottom Feeder Trad 15m 1.3. Mysteries Wall
* Pancho And Pedro Go Bolting Trad 15m 1.3. Mysteries Wall
Short 'n' Sharp Trad 15m 1.3. Mysteries Wall
Savour The Flavour Trad 27m 1.6. High Dive Gully
26 ** Bolte Wackford Trad 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
** The Fortress Sport 18m 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
** Wackford Squeers Sport 30m, 3 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
** Wackford Squeers Direct Trad 15m 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
* Industrial Muscle Mixed 30m, 2 1.2. Harlequin Cracks Area
* Historic Events Mixed 30m, 2 1.3. Mysteries Wall
Fiddler on the Roof Trad 35m 1.5. Echo Crag
27 * Model Phantom Mixed 35m, 2 1.3. Mysteries Wall
* Pooh Sticks Mixed 22m, 3 1.3. Mysteries Wall
** Tigger Trad 12m 1.3. Mysteries Wall
** Power Corruption and Lies Trad 15m 1.6. High Dive Gully
28 *** Slinkin' Leopard Trad 30m 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
Super Pooh Sport 15m, 5 1.3. Mysteries Wall
*** Lats in the Belfry Trad 25m 1.6. High Dive Gully
29 * Gridlock Trad 22m 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
Honey Pot Sport 5m 1.3. Mysteries Wall
*** Pooh Connection Sport 30m 1.3. Mysteries Wall
30 * Chuckles Bolty Trad 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
Straight Outta Compton Trad 25m 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
* You're Terminated Trad 25m 1.6. High Dive Gully
31 ** Lord Of The Rings Direct Unknown 20m 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
*** Lord of the Rings Trad 25m 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
* Zorlac The Destroyer Trad 30m 1.1. Henry Bolte Wall
32 Project Trad 12m 1.3. Mysteries Wall