Crag Guide for Northern Group

Start as for "Follow Your Nose" then climb straight up from horizontal on jugs to a crux mantle at top.

FA: Lionel Clay, Kurt Smith, 1986

Harder and bolder than the original.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Follow Your Nose".

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1989

Very pumpy.

Start: Start near the top left end of the wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Dave Fearnley, Ian Anger, 1982

Traverse as for "Follow Your Nose" and keep going, past "The Fortress" to a bolt on "Lord Of The Rings".

Start: Start as for "Follow Your Nose"

FA: James Falla, Paul Hoskins, 1987

The Fortress

A few pieces of gear required higher up. Sustained wall leftward past 2 bolts. At jugs, move right and up. (A pumpy variant is to go left instead and finish up Follow Your Nose).

Start: Start 6 metres right of "Follow Your Nose".

FA: Dave Fearnley, Mark Moorhead via start from left. As described Kim Carrigan, 1982

Gridlock

Straightens out Slinkin'.

Start: Start as for Slinkin'.

FA: Dave Jones, 1998

Slinkin' Leopard

Surely one of the best route names in the country.

Start: Start 3m R of 'The Fortress'.

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984

Zorlac The Destroyer

A righthand finish to Slinkin'.

Start: Start as for Slinkin'.

FFA: Jerry Mot, 1992

From belay chain on "Slinkin Leopard" step left then up through small cave, back right and up.

FA: Andrew Lindblade, Ian Anger, 1991

Wackford Squeers Direct

Very hard crux down low

Wackford Squeers

Brilliant route. Take small cams (00 Friend) + some medium cams (.3BD, .5BD, .75BD) for after the 3 bolts on the traverse.

Start: Start 4 metres down from "Slinkin Leopard".

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983

Lord Of The Rings Direct

Start at the weakness down right of "Wackford Squeers" and go fairly much straight up.

FA: Nick Sutter early 1990s, 2000

Chuckles Bolty

FA: Nathan Hoette,

Lord of the Rings

The "crazy linkup" of this route into Slinkin' Leopard was done by Nathan Hoette at grade 30 in 2004.

Start: Start as for "Wackford Squeers".

FA: Stefan Glowacz,

AKA Straight Outta Wackford.

FA: Geoff Weigand. Carrigan had climbed the lower section on, 1985

The original route on the wall is quite good but rope drag can be a problem.

Start: Start at obviuos weakness right of "Wackford Squeers", as for "Lord Of The Rings Direct".

FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff, 1977

Henry Bolte

Superb thin face-climbing. (#2 Wallnut after the first bolt, .75BD in the break after the 3rd bolt + a few more cams in the higher easier section to DBB) Start: Start just right of "Going For The One"

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Mark Moorhead, 1983

Some bouldery moves. There's a good plunge if you miss the final lunge.

Start: Start just right of "Henry Bolte"

FA: Kim Carrigan, Geoff Weigand, Brian Wright, 1981

Barbed

A good easy route on a great wall deserves a star. Pitch 2 is really good and eats cams. Great on a warm day.

Start: Down and right of the other routes is a prominent crack leading to a bottomless chimney.

1. 13m (17) Crack and chimney to terrace.

2. 29m (16) Easily up on right for 3 metres to the big diagonal ledge/break. Traverse down left to the end of the break and step left onto the wall. Continue up steep, juggy wall right of "Going For The One".

FA: Peter Watling, Andrew Hebdon, 1981

Line of bolts to a lower-off right of "Barbed".

FA: Two Germans., 1996

Up for 2 metres then traverse right to pockets and up brushed wall to ledge. Rap as for "Gurtle Tier".

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Barbed" at a short, steep flake.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mike Broadbent, Louise Shepherd, 1982

Not great. Well up the gully left of the main buttress, almost to 'Henry Bolte Wall', is a narrow chimney.

1. 12m (12) Struggle up chimney.

2. 36m (-) Traverse right onto easy-angled shoulder and on to nice layback crack on right. After this, move past large ledge and up corner to another wide ledge. An alternative is to move left at the start of the pitch and go up unleasant narrow chimney (grade 12).

3. 30m (7) As for final pitch of 'Beau Geste'

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris Dewhirst, John Moore. Pitch 2 variant : Garry Sudholz, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth.., 1968

Serious Callers Only

Pretty good climbing and protection. Start just right of second pitch of 'Barbed'. Access via abseil anchor of 'Not Invented Here'. Easily up to the big break. Straight up the short overhanging wall, 1 metre right of a left-leading diagonal line, to a good flake. Up 3 metres to top of flake, step right and up water-washed streak to little bulge and up to easier ground. Continue straight up through bulges at top.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, 2012

Not Invented Here

Might seem a bit contrived to people too short to do the move past the bolt at a reasonable grade. Access via 25 metre rappel from anchor above this climb. Double set cams to #1 Camalot, plus 1 each #2 and #4. Easy up to the ledge-break and up the short overhanging wall 1.5 metres right of 'Serious Callers Only'. Reach straight up the smooth wall past the bolt then right a little and up on killer incuts to left side of the roof of 'Clear Conscience'. Swing right above overhang and go up to rap anchor.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, 2011

Zero Gravitas

Start at belay anchor for 'Not Invented Here' Up onto the big break and traverse 3 metres right to FH below short, shallow corner. Short jump or hard moves into corner and up to good stance. Up wall (2 FH) to roof then follow seam up steep wall above roof (FH) then final, easier bulge.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Louise Shepherd, Norm Booth, 2012

"An obvious leftward-curving line starting high up on the buttress, not far right of the all finish of 'Going For The One' ." The Carrigan guide (ad hence the Shepherd one) has it starting 2 metres right of pitch 2 of 'Barbed' but that doesn't fit the description of the start "under a tight, awkward roof". In fact it appears to be the huge roof-flake up high on the right, which is on the left of the final scramble section of 'Beau Geste' etc. Approach from the right under a tight, awkward roof and then follow the diagonal line over some steep walls and overhangs.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff, 1977

This pleasant, easy crack midway between The Clown and 'Court Jester' was probably first soloed by Louise to get access to the top of School For Scandal during her massive cleaning exercise.

Wanders up the left side of the buttresses. A bit scrappy but worth a look.

Start some distance uphill of 'Beau Geste', just left of a deep horizontal break.

1. 24m (10) An undercut start leads into a wide crack. At top, step right and up to ledge.

2. 10m (-) The crack above.

3. 18m (10) Pull up steep wall and continue upo crack and jug-strewn wall.

4. 20m (10) 'Layback' crack on steep wall up left to terrace.

5. 30m (12) Pull up on flat holds just right of undercut arete and then up to top. This is just left of Beau Geste's final pitch.

FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, Laurie Beesley, 1965

Not a bad pitch. Could be used as a start for 'Artificial Insemination'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Jopie Bodegraven, Robert Knox, 1980

Another pleasant ramble.

Start: At toe of buttress just left of "Beau Geste"

1. 35m (-) Follow prominent line until it fizzles out. Step right and up to good ledge. This pitch has also been climbed slightly to the left.

2. 25m (-) Up front right side of buttress, over overhang and nice wall then up next wall past ironstone jugs to spacious upper ledge. The first two pitches have been climbed as one but rope-drag is a problem.

3. 25m (14) Climb prominent crack, curving right to arete. Climb arete and continue easily. Belay near top of major left-leading diagonal.

4. 20m (-) Broken corner to big ledge.

5. 30m (-) Top pitch of "Beau Geste"

FA: Keith and Tim Lockwood, 2010

A good pitch but a bit out of place with only easy options for approach and finish.

Start: Start at second belay; this is also the second belay of "Beau Geste", at the top of the neat little corner.

FA: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2010

A Whale Of A Time Direct Finish

This great little pitch is not really more direct but it is a good finish to this route, especially if done with the Grade 17 variant, or to "Artificial Insemination". Tiny cams are essential.

Start: Start around left of the top pitch of "Beau Geste" at a prominent corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, 2010

Beau Geste

A great adventure.

Start below major chimney on left side of cliff.

Note that numerous variants are possible, and have been done, from the middle of pitch 3 to the terrace at the end of pitch 4.

1. 50m (9) Up wall then chimney to terrace.

2. 13m (9) Just to the right is a short, right-facing corner. Up this and step right to belay.

3. 18m (9) Up righthand V-corner to roof. Move left under roof then step right and up to ledge.

4. 25m (9) 'Diagonal' up right (as for Tale Of Woe) to huge terrace.

5. 30m (7) Pull onto wall right of undercut arete, traverse right and go up on horizontal breaks approximately 6 metres right of arete. At ledge, move left and up. The fingery wall just right of the arete is Court Jester's finish.

A fairly good direct line with a few nice sections and an exciting finish around the overhang at the top of the face. Big cams needed on first 2 pitches.

Even better if finished via Noddy's face around left of last pitch of 'Beau Geste'.

Start: Start from the terrace, at the base of Beau Geste's second pitch corner.

1. 20m (13) Follow right-leading ramp, then wide crack to ledge. There other belay options higher, including a tiny stance just below the roof but this is probably the most convenient spot.

2. 25m (18) Continue up the line to the roof with a difficult section not far below the roof. Exposed moves out to and around the lip of the major roof-crack.

3. 30m (7) Final ptich of 'Beau Geste'.

FA: Roger Webb, Phillip Armstrong. Phillip had climbed the crux overhang with Eddie Ozols, Mark Shelton two months earlier., 1977

Pleasant access route to the big terrace.

FA: Heather Phillips, Bill Andrews, 1983

Follow 2 corners to easy ground, aiming for large left-facing flake. Pass this on left and up.

Start: Start at short corner 2 metres right of 'BA Mosquito'.

FA: Bill Andrews and GIT course member, 1981

Tale of Woe

A popular outing following the prominent diagonal line. Not really sure that it warrants a star though.

1. 30m (8) Follow the major left-leading diagonal from the terrace until it ends. Belay on ledge past first little cave.

2. 25m (9) Diagonally right, passing large roofs on the right, finishing over a little bulge.

3. 30m (7) As for the final pitch of 'Beau Geste'.

FA: Mike Stone, Chris Baxter, 1973

Looks great but is just OK.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Doug and Beryl Palmen, 1977

Similar to Bung.

FA: Allan Hope, Bill Andrews, 1983

Harlequin Cracks

The long corner of the first pitch is lovely.

1. 36m (10) Up line to ledge taking care with some loose blocks just before the belay.

2. 12m (8) Avoid the bottomless chimney (grade 12) by climbing the face out right up to the terrace.

3. 32m (10) The best line is to continue up the left-facing corner directly above. Alternatively, traverse 3 metres right to a shallow corner. Up this, loose blocks to ledge, traverse 5 metres right to another corner and up to top.

FA: Ted Batty, Bob Bull, Peter Jackson. Pitch 3 corner : Rob Taylor, Daryl Carr., 1966

Start: Start as for "Harlequin Cracks

1. 15m (18) Take short orange corner just right of main line. Step right at roof and up to peregrine ledge. Seam to right of corner is also grade 18 but mossy)

2. 33m (-) Pull over into line above and follow all way, with slight step left half-way up, on orange rock.

FA: Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood, 2010

Calabrese

Very good, but beware the runout halfway up the 1st pitch. Some say that the poor protection is not a problem given the straightforward nature of the climbing. However there is also the case of a leader who backed off this and went on to 'Orestes' for his next,successful, climb.

Start: Start 4m L of 'Salami'.

1. 25m (17) Not well protected through half height, although technically not too hard. Crack to ledge at 3m. Take fading crack then face, and traverse 2m R to flake. Up it to ledge then up wall.

2. 15m (17) Easy crack then R to slabby splitter crack. At the top traverse R over blocks to belay at the top of Salami's chimney.

3. 15m (-) The crack up the middle of the buttress between 'Salami' and 'Salami' DF, with a fun roof.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Bill Andrews (alt), 1982

Salami

1. 36m (11) Monster left-facing corner to ledge on right.

2. 15m (9) Move left under overhangs to a sharp, undercut flake. Up the flake to ledge.

3. 30m (10) Either scramble up to the right or, from left side of large,scrubby ledge and undercut start leads to shallow, right-facing corner.

FA: Peter Jackson, Chris Baxter, 1965

A good finish for 'Salami', starting from the first belay.

FA: Daryl Carr, Jerry Grandage, 1965

This monster corner-chimney is not only good fun, but benefits from coming into shade early in the day, but last pitch is in full sun. Great 1st and last pitches with some scrap in the middle.

1. 36m (11) Monster left-facing corner to ledge on right.

2. 11m (5) traverse, through crack to the right to belay.

3. 10m (1-2) scramble up to small boulder next belay.

4. 15m (6) up small face to the right, follow up and around left to overhang and ledge.

5. 25m (12) from end (rightmost) overhang, crux first move out over the overhang for an awesome finish.

Walk off the back to finish and down trail to left.

RS: Geoff, 2013

FFA: , 2013

FA: Geoff, Alicia, Jason, Holly, 2013

Industrial Muscle

From 'Salami', move right onto wall at horizontal break. Up past bolt then up and left to crescent-shaped ledge. Up this to second bolt then hard moves up right.

FA: Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson, 1988

The Age of Stainless

As for IM, then take extended leftward finish up the mighty headwall. 30 metre rappel.

Start: Start as for 'Industrial Muscle'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2003

From conifer below 'Salami' climb face on right for 2 metres. Traverse right to weakness in bulge, then straight up.

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, Dave Gairns, Keith Lockwood, 1983

Prominent broken diagonal right of 'Salami'.

Start at short red corner some metres right of 'Salami'.

1. 30m (12) Follow red corner then taverse right across mossy slabs to base of diagonal. Belay a few metres higher.

2. 23m (12) Take the diagonal, ignoring branch on right wall to big ledge.

3. 15m (12) Follow either of 2 short corners to next ledge.

4. 23m (12) The diagonal continues to tricky exit above 'Salami' Corner.

FA: Peter Watling, Anita Lundberg (alt), 1984

Takes the prominent roof.

FA: Dave Mudie, Dennis Kemp, 1989

Climb middle of face right of 'Goonkachoong'.

FA: Dennis Kemp, Dave Mudie, 1989

Good corner.

FA: Peter Watling, Anita Lundberg, 1984

Tigger

Old Paul Hoskins project re-equipped and sent. Ultra-smeary!

Start: Start on left side of 'Mysteries Wall' proper.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004

Rosshalde

A fingery and scary start and exciting finish up the headwall. #4 cam could be handy.

Start: Start to the left of the major crack on the left side of the wall.

FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham. Geoff Weigand soloed finish February 1985., 1979

Model Phantom

Thin stuff.

Start: Start as for Blue-Eyed And Blond.

FA: Geoff Weigand., 1985

Blue-Eyed and Blond

The most attractive climb here. Luckily the desperate clip has been eliminated.

Start: Start below vertical seam (with PR) that crosses a diagonal line (Mysteries) a few metres up.

FA: Chris Shepherd., 1984

Mysteries

The diagonal crack leading left into 'Rosshalde' is slick and fiddly to protect but good fun higher up.

1. 15m (23) Take the diagonal crack into 'Rosshalde' and belay under the roof.

2. 20m (21) Up to roof, traverse out right and up steep face.

FA: Lincoln and Chris Shepherd (pitch 1). Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead (pitch 2) 1981., 1980

Modern History

Fights its way up the real-estate right of 'Modern History'. It may be better to start up 'Modern History' than up 'Mysteries'.

Start: Start as for 'Mysteries'

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

Historic Events

Climb directly past two bolts into 'Modern History'. Either finish up that climb (as originally done) or continue straight up and into Blue Eyed and Blonde.

Start: Start just right of 'Mysteries'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

Serious unprotected overhung arete right of 'Historic Events'. A rope would serve only to stop a plummet all the way down the gully below.

FA: Geoff Weigand (solo), 1985

Hard dyno up the overhanging line onto the wall. Rather than following easy crack (Gardener's Delight), go left across wall and around arete to finish up flat-tops.

Start: Start at the cave about 3 metres right of 'Historic Events'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Steve Lassche, 2000

Spanish Gardener

Start up the second pitch of Gardener's Delight and finish up Spanish Eyes.

Pull up onto wall as for Gardener's Delight and drift right and up sharp arete. The wall between this climb and Gardener's Delight has been top-roped from the rappel rings.

Start: Start at the arete 3 metres right of the cave of 'Spanish Eyes'.

FA: Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman, 1998

Nice line with fiddly pro.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Steve Lassche, 1980

A bolted boulder problem. The holds are generally good, but seeing as they are all vertical - guess what that means for the feet? 'Dynamic' and very powerful.

FA: Nathan Hoette,

Pancho And Pedro Go Bolting

The first route established on this wall. One bolt. Hard start from pockets leads to an easier mid-section.

FA: Tom Greenwood, 1989

Bottom Feeder

A direct start to 'Anus Horribilus'. Start as for that route but go straight up through a small undercling to the 2nd bolt. Cruxy moves lead into the finish of the original route.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2004

Anus Horribilus

A classic at the grade. Bouldery start leads to quite continuous climbing on good slopey holds. Steeper than it looks!

FA: Dave Jones, 1998

Pooh Connection

Climbs the direct start to Pooh Sticks and links that route into Anus Horribilus. Despite being slightly contrived, a brilliant conception. Two distinct halves offering Blue Mountains like crimping to start, followed by gritty slopers.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004

Pooh Sticks

Nowadays largely ignored but still worth doing in it's own right. Originally started by stepping off the pillar into the line but now incorporates the direct start from the ground. Where the connection moves left into 'Anus Horribilus', continue straight up via the traditionally protected arete.

FA: Roland Foster, 1989

Tweaky

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008

Eeyore's Thistle's

Good route but runout.

Start: Slab route immediately right (around corner) from 'Poosticks'.

FA: Andrew Martin,

Mohawkman

2 rings plus a handful of cams to summit loweroff. The linkup of the start of this route into the finish of 'Mr Hanky' is about 15.

Start: Lefthand slab route on detached wall around the corner from 'Poosticks'.

FA: Joel Wilson,

The natural line on the face, avoiding the hard bits of the other two routes. Quite sustained. Take a few cams with a couple of #1 and #3 in the mix.

Mr Hanky

Has a ring with a hard clip for the hard start then drops off several grades. Summit loweroff.

Start: Righthand slab route with hard start on detached wall around the corner from 'Poosticks'.

FA: Joel Wilson,

Gardener's Delight

First pitch doesn't get a lot of traffic so can be dirty. Great second pitch.

Start: Start at the rounded arete, about the same place as Eeyores Thistles.

1. 26m (12) Diagonally up wall to short left-facing corner. Up this, over the small overhang and up the line to the terrace.

2. 18m (11) Pull up onto the undercut wall 3 metres right of the cave (Spanish Eyes starts at the cave) and traverse left to the prominent crack. Up this to finish right of the overhang.

FA: Jerry Grandage, Rob Taylor (alt) and Daryl Carr, Andrew Smith, 1966

A Goat's Song

Sustained face climbing, spoiled a bit by the big ledge at half-height. Wires and cams up to #1 plus #3.5 cam.

Start: Start at black face just right of 'Beached Wails'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman., 1998

100 Acre Wood

Ultra technical face climbing.

Start: Attractive orange streak at the very base of 'Mysteries' 'Gully' (downhill from Goats Song).

FA: Steve Kelly, 2004

Looks good but poorly protected, somewhat contrived andgenerally not much fun. The best bit is that the first ascent team got to the top, found they were on a pinnacle and started bemoaning that they would have to leave gear behind. Then HB poked his head over the top on the short side...

Start: Down right of the 'Mohawkman' face on a narrow south-east face just left of a wide crack.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Moss, 1983

Good first pitch but be careful to avoid the dangerous hollow flake immediately left of the start.

Start: Start below a crack about 10 metres down right of A Goat\'s Song.

1. 12m (19) Climb past the bolt to the crack, avoiding touching the flake that is on your left. Finger-crack and thinning seam to large ledge.

2. 18m (14) Move right and up to next ledge. Climb the wall to ledge with abseil anchors for A Goat's Song.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, 1998

The good section hardly makes up for the horrible start and way off.

Start: At lowest point on wall.

FA: Keith Egerton, Andrew Corlass, Kieran Loughran, Ed Neve, Craig Nottle, 1984

Better than AGFTG despite sharing the start and much the same finish

Start: As for A Gift From The Gods.

1. 25m (19) Up the mossy slab then take orange diagonal on the steep wall just right. At the top of the diagonal, step right and up through overhang to ledge.

2. 25m (-) Line on right wall of gully.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns and Mike Stone, 1984

Start: As for A Gift From The Gods.

1. 25m (18) Diagonally right up moss to ledge. Climb wall above a faint rock scar, thence up left into lichenous weakness and back right to stance.

2. 25m (-) Straight up, heading right at top.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter and Mike Stone, Peter Woolford, 1984

Banshee

Absorbing. Protection is a bit fiddly to get though it is good on the hardest moves.

Start: Originally started as for A Gift From The Gods but is better as for 'Dingbats'.

1. 20m (17) Go up to ledge. Step right and go straight up compact orange rock being careful not to stray right into 'Dingbats'.

2. 30m (-) Up slightly left on good rock to easy finish. Better would be to traverse easily right for 10 metres to the Shiraleee abseil anchor.

FA: Keih Lockwood, Rick Hatch and Ray Lassman, 1983

Start: 4 metres left of 'The Shiralee'.

1. 20m (14) Straight up then step left to gain ramp leading diagonally right.

2. 30m (14) Step left and climb bulging groove on good rock.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Tony Yap. Start as described by Chris Baxter et al., 1984

The Shiralee

Tenuous climbing into the orange scoops that would have been very scary before microcams. Deserves to be climbed more often and might be now that the abseil anchor has gone in

Put up in a rainstorm during which a child almost drowned in Central Gully!

Start: Start below line of orange scoops.

1. 25m (15) Climb easily up just left of the smooth face to orange rock and up into the line to the overhang. Traverse right and then back left above the overhang to rap-anchor.

2. 30m (9) Abseil off of follow jugs up the line.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Reg Marron, 1973

The Shiralee Direct

A direct start and finish to 'The Shiralee' makes for a very good climb. Take some tiny cams and a #3 (blue) Camalot in your rack.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2009

Terrible name but the climb looks better than the name suggests.

Start: Start at short crack 6 metres right (Shepherd guide, original description says 3) of 'The Shiralee'.

FA: Chris baxter, Keith Lockwood., 1983

The left arete of the 'Heath Row' buttress. Start as for 'Trotskyist Tendency' and after the initial black bulge, continue up the arete.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, 2012

Climbs the centre of the face left of 'Maiden Voyeur' despite continually heading for the left wing. Good climbing throughout but the regular need to step back right to avoid the left arete detracts a bit. Take cams up to 3.5 (blue Camalot). Belay as for Heath Row or on a small stance a few metres higher below the left-hand diagonal line. Move up left to the bulge at the start of the face and pull over onto the black face. Continue, keeping right of the arête. At each bolt, step right below it and climb straight past. Belay on a ledge about 5 metres above the third bolt. Scramble, roped up about another 10 metres to another good ledge that leads off into the gully below Hurts.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Steve Greig, 2012

Maiden Voyeur

No prizes for guessing who put this up. Following the left-most of the ddiagonal lines this is quite a good climb. Used to be hard to locate because the guidebooks mangled the writeups of this and 'Mammary Lane'.

Start: Start as for 'Heath Row' Go up into the left crack and take the wide layback flake (big cam). Finish up nice thin crack.

FA: Michael Stone, Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1979

This and 'Maiden Voyeur' were described in the wrong order in the guidebooks so it was hard to work out where things went. The FA date in the Shepherd guide was also incorrect. The majority of this climb is very easy but the upper wall is great.

Start: Start as for 'Heath Row'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Mike Stone, 1979

Looks quite pleasant despite the odd small shrub. Was upgraded to 15 in Carrigan guide; someone must have strayed onto the then unclimbed Maiden Voyeur!

Start: There is a small square chipped in the rock at the base of the route.

FA: Ann and Roland Pauligk, 1973

Very bouldery. Scramble down from above to reach this big triangular roof above 'Touchwood'.

FA: John Allen, Tobin Sorenson, 1979

FA: Re-established after a hold snapped by Paul Hoskins., 1994

Bald orange arete from ledge just below and right of 'Fiddler' On The Roof.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Steve Lassche, 1980

Not much good. Start about 50 metres left of Leaden Echo below black and orange buttress.

1. 35m (8) Potter up the wasteland until a corner leads onto righthand face. Follow line left past little roof to belay beside ceiling of 'Fiddler' On The Roof.

2. 35m (8) Around the steepening and on vaguely left up wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter, Ed Neve, 1974

The botanical corner left of Leaden Echo.

1. 15m (12) 'Layback' easily up left to orange overhang at 5 metres, traverse 3 metres right and move up.

2. 15m (12) V-chimney

3. 12m (12) Bulging crack then continue on rib on right wall of corner-gully until crack peters out. Belay in gully.

4. 18m (12) Traverse across right wall and climb arete and back left onto wall and up.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Murray Taylor, 1968

Some exciting moves up the front of Touchstone's big block but hasn't caught on.

1. 30m (19) Bridge against conifer and onto face 7 metres left of 'Touchstone'. Go up right to the right side of the block. Traverse left into line up centre of block and up to ledge.

2. 30m (-) Step left to next ledge. Follow hand-crack and wall.

FA: Ed Neve, Hugh Foxcroft (alt), Garry Wills, 1980

Touchstone

Two very nice pitches.

1. 25m (14) Follow the line diagonally left, quite tricky with poor protection, until able to go up easily. Up to right-facing corner on right side of huge block. Corner to Ledge.

2. 25m (14) Up the face for 12 metres to where the wall steepens and continue up, veering slightly left to finish just right of the arete. The original finish traversed over to the arete.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter. Finish as described : Dan Kortschak, Jo Thomas -, 2003

Touch-Type

FA: Mark Wood, Allan McCulloch, Paul Deacon, Simon Mentz,

What the Fuck is Pluto?

FA: Dan Kortschak and Jo Thomas, 2003

The Singing Wire

Nice climbing all the way; a fitting companion route to 'Touchstone'. Follows a direct, continuous crack system in three distinct parts. Some of the first pitch is not new, but the whole climb as described is a new conception.

Start: Start 3m right of Leaden

Echo.

1. 40m (17) Climb diagonal crack up the right wall. Continue up line when it steepens and becomes thinner until a hand traverse left allows you to step across the main corner to a ledge on the left. Follow the right-hand line (the easier left-hand line is Leaden Echo) and flake system over a little roof. Continue up flake and wall to ledge (Leaden Echo's second belay).

2. 20m (17) Up balancy seam in wall straight above belay. This is left of Leaden Echo's final corner and right of Kieran's variant finish to 'Touchstone'.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Noel Whiteside (alt)., 2003

The major corner system.

• 22m (10) After a hard start, go up easily to the next overhang, which is avoided by moving onto the right wall and up to ledge.
• 38m (10) Traverse delicately left across corner to long flake on left wall. Up flake to ledge. Taking the corner directly is grade 11 : Garry Sudholz, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth 05-10-1968.
• 18m (10) Chimney-corner.

FA: Chris Baxter, John Moore, Phillip Stranger, 1965

FA: Chris Baxter, John Moore, Phillip Stranger. They later returned to remove their aid point!, 1965

Good overhang approache by abseil to final belay of 'The Leaden Echo'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Jim Grellis, 1975

Taking the wall left of 'Honeycomb', it is highly likely that this is a retro-bolt of 'Adapter'.

'Access' by 25 metre abseil to small stance in corner.

Apparently a rope is allowed for the descent, but not the ascent! Unfortunately it seems likely 'Mr Buffalo' is actually a retro-bolted repeat of this route.

Start: Rappel down to a small ledge 4m under the second belay of Leaden Echo.

FA: Patrick Alseby. Solo. Summer., 1998

Honeycomb

Fantastic finger-crack up the righthand wall of 'The Leaden Echo'.

Start: Either scramble in from the right to a stance or abseil 35 metres from the anchor above 'Mr Buffalo'.

FA: Tim Beaman, Chris Peisker, 1976

Nativity

Great flake line which can be escaped at half-height but why would you?

FA: Phillip Stranger, John Moore, 1967

Psalm 69

The obvious right-hand companion to 'Nativity'.

Orange arête right of Navity past 2 fixed hangers then continue direct up overhung arête on trad to finish at anchors on NDS. Vital #5 wire after 2nd bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

Jesus Built My Hotrod / Nativity Direct Start

Originally called 'Nativity' Direct Start and poorly protected. Now retro-bolted and popular.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Fred Fromm, 1979

FA: Mark Moorhead, Fred Fromm, 1979

The desperate, unprotected start and the huge detached block higher up make this an unattractive proposition.

Start just left of 'Lone Pine Corner'.

FA: Paul Aubrey, Dave Fearnley, 1980

Classic, square-cut corner starting dirctly behind small pine. Finish up easy ground above corner.

FA: Keith, Timothy and Fiona Lockwood, 1993

Use whatever you can to roll onto ledge above roof, and then climb corner. The grunt can be avoided to the right at about 12.

Start: Right of 'Lone Pine Corner' is another sweet little corner with a steep roof in the way at ground level.

FA: Richard Smith and Greg Pritchard, 2001

Cellular Destruction

The devestating first line on the wall. Move up, right and up to hard top-out.

A worthless direct variant (23) goes straight up from the start. Huw Lewis 21-04-1991.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Nic Taylor, 1982

Traverse right from start of "Cellular Destruction" to "Taste of Honey".

FA: Geoff Weigand, Russell Chudleigh, 2000

Power Corruption and Lies

Take traverse line down right between "Cellular Destruction" and "Belly Flop" past a bolt. Now up past second bolt to letterbox slot (#2 cam). Continue through bulge into "Cellular Destruction".

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1985

From ledge in gully above "High Dive" follow horizontal all the way to "A Taste Of Honey".

FA: Glenn Tempest, Mark Moorhead, Marty Beare, 1983

Lats in the Belfry

Start as for High Dive then at the break prior to its crux head left and launch up past cam slots to a piton, then continue through to PCL and onwards up into Cellular. Finish with the mantle on this route.

FA: paul smith,

You're Terminated

Climb "High Dive" until its crux and continue up underside of arete past 2 bolts to join "Poer, Corruption And Lies".

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1989

High Dive

Step right and up to break. Travere right a little then crack from break to break, cruxy move rightwards to the arete and up.

Start: Start about halway up (or down) the gully where a mass of chalk shows the way to the big horizontal break.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

High Flop

Start up High Dive, finish up Belly Flop

Contrived.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

A Taste of Honey

Absolutely thrilling.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968

A Taste of Honey Variant

This was actually the original aid line. Traverse right along the thin crack from the fixed peg.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1979

Ultra-low variant on Taste Of Honey. Traverse right with feet swinging.

FA: Hugh Manoid, Bud Green, 1988

A good approach to 'The Golden Echo'.

Start: Start as for 'A Taste of Honey' Direct Start.

FA: Mark Witham, Michael Hartman,

Taste of Honey Direct Start

A great individual pitch or an approach to one of the other climbs.

FA: John Davis, Jim Smith, 1967

Up wall to first horizontal break and traverse spectacularly left to arete and up.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Gordon McCallum, Colin Reece, 1979

Dr. Paul and the Amazing Dancing Gnome

Start as for 'Capilano' and continue up wall with long reaches to major horizontal. Don't escape left but keep going up for a few more moves until it eases.

FA: Paul Smith, Geoff Little, 1985

The obvious wide line through the roofs above the ledge.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Bowman, 1974

Golden Echo Variant

This was the original route but has moprhed into a variant.

FA: John Moore, 1966

Golden Echo / The Golden Echo

Interesting climbing through some exciting territory.

FA: Joe Friend, Ian Lewis, 1974

A scary direct start to Golden Echo.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Nick Plishko, Robin Miller, 1982

Kachoong

Up on jugs to rest at roof, place bomber cams and then launch out into glory across the roof into the crux at the lip. Easy up headwall to welcome belay

Start: Start at the ledge below the big roof with the chalked flakes.

Kachoong Right Hand Variant

The original line through the roof took the little hanging corner on the right. This is worthwhile in its own right.

FA: Dave Neilson, Chris Dewhirst, 1968

Climb to the roof (crux) and then escape out right and up easy wall.

FA: Bruno Zielke, Fred Langenhorst, 1969

Poorly protected start. Douglas doesn't mind at all if someone puts 2 bolts in the start.

Start: Start about 2m R of 'Kachoong'.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Gareth Llewellin, 2002

Start just left of Max and go up and slightly further left up overhanging wall. When angle eases, head up to final roof crack.

FA: Nick Neagle, Paul Francis, 1987

Slightly contrived face climbing between Max and 'Moritz'.

FA: Paul Francis, Nick Neagle, 1987

Lovely short crack on the left side of the 'Hurts' Wall.

FA: Roland and Ann Pauligk, 1973

Crack 3 metres right of Max is also quite good.

FA: Ann and Roland Pauligk, 1973

Loads of steep traversing.

FA: Simon Mentz, Scott Camps, Jared McCulloch, Andrew Eastaugh, 1988

Start L of Hurts and climb up to join Hurts where it steps L.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 2006

Hurts

Good, pumpy wall.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, 1979

In Phase

Very good and very strenuous.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

Cyclic

Slight corner 4 metres right of 'In Phase' then traverse 3-4 metres left, over roof and up crack.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1979

Looks awful.

FA: Roland and Ann Pauligk, 1973

Nice little wall climb. It's not clear where this route is relative to 'Taliban Airways' and the other 2001 routes - it may be a repeat of one of them? Faces the same way as 'Hurts', Max and 'Moritz' but just one level below them.

Start: From 'Hurts', go out and drop down through the gap that leads down to Golden Echo DS and Taste of Honey. As you emerge from this chimney there is a face on the right which is undercut on its left side. Start on the right edge of the undercut.

FA: K Loughran, N Booth, 2005

Not the best part of town.

Start: Takes clean convex wall about 30m right of 'Hurts' Wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 2000

(Flying into 'New York', twice daily). A good way to get up to the start of 'Kachoong' warm.

Start: Underneath the start of 'Kachoong' is a wall which the track skirts.

FA: Richard Smith and Greg Pritchard, 2001

Up.

Start: Right of the arete is a thin wall.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Richard Smith, 2002

The original name was:

climbing was super

on long steep juggy arete

loose jug in my hand

Start: The steep left arete of the 'Taliban Airways' wall.

FA: Richard Smith, Paul Hoskins, 2002

Start: The Right of the 'Taliban Airways' wall.

FA: Richard Smith and Greg Pritchard, 2001

Up the crack then arete till angle eases. Follow sharp arete to spectacular summit.

Start: Start at a crack on the east face of the pinnacle.

FA: Greg Pritchard and James Falla, 1999

Follow arete all the way to top.

Start: Slightly uphill of BNP, 5 metres left (description says right but that makes no sense) of the start of 'Generation Gap', at the left arete.

FA: Greg Pritchard and James Falla, 1999

Generation Gap

Pleasant easy climb up a great line.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Michael Stone, 1979

Centre of the right wall of 'Generation Gap' corner

FA: Keith Lockwood, Ray Lassman, 2012

Vigorous crack through a ceiling.

Start: Start as for 'Generation Gap'.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, Michael Stone, 1979

Steep but if you have trouble on this leave the rest of the routes on this wall alone.

Start: Start at wide crack right of James.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Geoff Gledhill, 1985

Over roof just right of 'Pumparama' and finish up short crack.

Start: Start just right of 'Pumparama'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

Face between 'Broom Hilda' and Evelyn, through bulge.

FA: Geoff Little, Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher, 1988

Evelyn

Thin and energetic

Start: Start at thin crack 4 metres right of 'Broom Hilda'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

It'll be too late once you're at grips with this.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1988

Reputedly a tough lead.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1981

Start: Gap between Lou and Lou's not 19.

FA: Hoskins, Smith. late., 1995

Short seam.

Start: Start at the right hand end of the wall that contains Lou.

FA: Smith, Hoskins, late., 1995

Up streak and continue straight on.

Start: About 1m left of 'The First Kiddy Climb' and a bit lower is a orange streak in the middle of black.

FA: Jack Synnot, Mark Synnot, Zoe Synnot and Pete Canning, 2005

Not destined for greatness, but when you are only 8 and 10 years old putting up a route is exciting.

Start: 1m left of the chimney/corner (Please Don't Talk to the Lifeguard).

FA: Zoe Synnot, Mark Synnot, Jack Synnot and Pete Canning, 2005

Not waving, drowning.

Start: Start at the left hand edge of the wall, below a smooth black slab, 2m right of chimney/corner.

FA: Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman, 1999

They actually called it "About a Hedge-Whore beggar woman pretending to be sick with Saint Fiacre's Disease, and a long thick gut made by trickery came out of her bum", and then said "Don't blame me, blame Ambroise Pare".

Start: Start 5m left of chimney, right of low cave.

FA: Greg Pritchard and James Falla, 1999

Originally "About a Fat Wench from Normandy, who Pretended to Have a 'Snake' in Her Belly". Hard to believe he was the father of modern surgery, isn't it?

Start: Start: On top of large boulder leaning against wall 2m left of 'Mermaid Avenue'.

FA: Greg Pritchard and James Falla, 1999

Up chimney for three metres and then swing left onto arete. Follow this to top.

Start: Start: At the base of 'Mermaid Avenue'.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, 1999

Mermaid Avenue

An old fashioned line, or is that lane, as in bus? Good.

Start: Between Lou and 'Stone Age' there is an obvious large chimney in the middle of a sizeable wall. This line is 'Mermaid Avenue'.

FA: Greg Pritchard and Paul Hoskins, 1999

Start: Start as for 'Mermaid Avenue'.

FA: Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman, 1999

Swing desperately over rattly lip of cave; continue in line more pleasantly.

Start: Seam between 'Mermaid Avenue' and 'Narwhal Avenue'. It's about 2m right of 'The Police Gospel Quartet' arete.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Peter Canning, 2005

Narwhal Avenue

Fun.

Start: Start: Right of 'Mermaid Avenue' and before the arete of 'Manatee Fair' there is a crack line up the wall.

FA: Greg Pritchard and Paul Hoskins, 1999

Manatee Fair

The best of the lot. Originally graded 10.

Start: Start 5m right of 'Mermaid Avenue' just left of arete.

FA: Greg Pritchard and James Falla, 1999

Not very long and pretty unpalatable.

Start: Start in the chimney that 'Stone Age' starts in.

FA: James Falla and Greg Pritchard, 1999

Stone Age

Much nicer than it looks.

Start: The buttress right of 'Manatee Fair' has a thin seam up a slab capped by a roof.

FA: Mike Stone, Chris Baxter, 1985

Delightful doddle.

Start: Start just right of 'Stone Age'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, 1985

You know what to do.

Start: Start: 2m right of 'Poles Apart' at another line of cracks.

FA: Greg Pritchard and Paul Hoskins, 1999

Start: Start: 2m right of 'Melville's Moby Dick Ooh Er'.

FA: Greg Pritchard, James Falla, 1999

Does your pussy do the dog? 10m.

Start: Start: 8m up the hill from 'Because It's There' at point where climbing looks possible. Below end of horizontal break that splits the cliff.

FA: James Falla and Greg Pritchard, 1999

Unusual scooped face across gully from and facing 'Stone Age'.

Start: Start towards right.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1988

Anything that does not kill you must make you stranger.

Start: Start: In the gully behind 'Because It's There' at the right end of a small white wall beneath a large fallen tree.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, 1999

Harder than it looks. Needed two leaders to push this mighty 15m line to the top!

Start: Start to left of wall, 1m right of arete.

FA: Greg Pritchard and James Falla, 1999

No joke. (2 pitches for a 15m route is a bit of a joke though?!)

Start: Start on the right side of this wall.

FA: James Falla and Greg Pritchard, 1999

Up cracks then through 'interesting' headwall.

Start: Start: On the next tall buttress down the gully is a wall with an obvious crack on the right.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, 1999

Up this, curving left at top then up.

Start: Start: On the next buttress down from 'The Dwarves of Towyn', in the middle of the south face, is an obvious shallow corner.

FA: James Falla and Greg Pritchard, 1999

Directly opposite PB is small wall up on a terrace. In middle of wall is obvious crack (grade 6).

FA: Glen Donohue, Peter Cunningham, 1987

Line 4 metres right of Grade 6 crack.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Glenn Donohue, 1987