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Description:© (kieranl)

A great adventure.

Start below major chimney on left side of cliff.

Note that numerous variants are possible, and have been done, from the middle of pitch 3 to the terrace at the end of pitch 4.

  1. 50m (9) Up wall then chimney to terrace.

  2. 13m (9) Just to the right is a short, right-facing corner. Up this and step right to belay.

  3. 18m (9) Up righthand V-corner to roof. Move left under roof then step right and up to ledge.

  4. 25m (9) 'Diagonal' up right (as for Tale Of Woe) to huge terrace.

  5. 30m (7) Pull onto wall right of undercut arete, traverse right and go up on horizontal breaks approximately 6 metres right of arete. At ledge, move left and up. The fingery wall just right of the arete is Court Jester's finish.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

There is no known route history.

Location:  

Located in Harlequin Cracks Area approx:
Long/Lat: 141.835107,-36.750769

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

10 Community registered grade
10 ** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
9 ** ** ACA Route Register
9 ** Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 70%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

good great ripper lovely fun enjoyable awesome committing face rest crack

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