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Description:© (kieranl)

The long corner of the first pitch is lovely.

  1. 36m (10) Up line to ledge taking care with some loose blocks just before the belay.

  2. 12m (8) Avoid the bottomless chimney (grade 12) by climbing the face out right up to the terrace.

  3. 32m (10) The best line is to continue up the left-facing corner directly above. Alternatively, traverse 3 metres right to a shallow corner. Up this, loose blocks to ledge, traverse 5 metres right to another corner and up to top.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Ted Batty, Bob Bull, Peter Jackson. Pitch 3 corner : Rob Taylor & Daryl Carr., 1966

Location:  

Located in Harlequin Cracks Area approx:
Lat/Long: -36.750769,141.835107

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

11 Community registered grade
10 * * ACA Route Register
10 ** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
12 ** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 63%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux hard good great beautiful lovely nice awesome exposed short easy interesting epic crack

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