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Description:© (kieranl)

A fingery and scary start and exciting finish up the headwall.

The original route followed the line L all the way, but a far better finish is to step airily R off the sloping ledge and up the headwall at a fairly solid 19.

Large cam/s size 4 or 5 could be handy at the bottom and small ones stepping off the ledge.

Start: Start to the left of the major crack on the left side of the wall.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham. Geoff Weigand soloed finish February 1985., Aug 1979


Located in Northern Group approx:
Lat/Long: -36.750329,141.835082

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

20 R Community registered grade
20 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
20 R * ACA Route Register
20 Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 50%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

hard fantastic good great exciting scary feet rest reachy traverse crack

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