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Description:© (kieranl)

Climbs the inverted staircase just left of "A Taste of Honey" and is a superb companion route to it. Dave Jones used to solo this regularly as a warm up for the harder routes in this gully

Starts at a heavily chalked ledge low in the gully. Traverse R about 4 metres to a fixed wire before heading up on flat holds to the large break of Belly Flop. Traverse R to just before the arete, then up to the next break just below the first bolt of "You're Terminated" (virtually impossible to clip on this route). Now traverse with difficulty R around the arete to easier ground.

Finish up the lovely grade 10 headwall or backjump if you don't suffer from summit fever.

For gear, virtually every cam ever made could be placed at some point in this route, but a #0.3BD protects the crux on the arete nicely.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Kim Carrigan, 1982

Location:  

Located in Northern Group approx:
Lat/Long: -36.750329,141.835082

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

23 Community registered grade
23 ** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
23 *** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
23 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 76%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux great lovely fun awesome steep

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