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Description:© (kieranl)

Absolutely thrilling, difficult for the grade if you don't like having your heels above your head, and generally more difficult to second than to lead.

Start at the belay at the top of the pillar L of the Kachoong wall. This can be approached by "A Taste of Honey Direct Start", "Echo System" or the corner scramble between it and the Kachoong wall.

Up surprisingly easy overhanging crack to a very steep section beneath a roof with a fairly blank wall on the right. Traverse R across this wall using the line of jugs just below the roof with disappointingly few footholds to a ledge at the end and safety.

The route continues up on lovely rock at about grade 10 to the top.

The original aid line was the low crack (now known as "A Taste of Honey Variant") and the original free ascent (Henry Barber) used the roof crack above at the same grade but the best climbing is as described.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Hot Henry Barber

  • First Ascent: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1968

Location:  

Located in Northern Group approx:
Lat/Long: -36.750329,141.835082

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

21 Community registered grade
21 ** RockGUIDE: Victoria
21 *** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
21 *** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
21 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 84%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

stuffed pumped solid crux desperate hard super beautiful fun good amazing great lovely classic awesome scary feet rest interesting roof hands technical short easy jugs traverse crack

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