- Height: 27m
- Ascents: 111
- Description:© (kieranl)
Absolutely thrilling, difficult for the grade if you don't like having your heels above your head, and generally more difficult to second than to lead.
Up surprisingly easy overhanging crack to a very steep section beneath a roof with a fairly blank wall on the right. Traverse R across this wall using the line of jugs just below the roof with disappointingly few footholds to a ledge at the end and safety.
The route continues up on lovely rock at about grade 10 to the top.
The original aid line was the low crack (now known as "A Taste of Honey Variant") and the original free ascent (Henry Barber) used the roof crack above at the same grade but the best climbing is as described.
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
First Free Ascent: Hot Henry Barber
First Ascent: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 15 Apr 1968
Located in Northern Group approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|21||Community registered grade|
|21||★★ RockGUIDE: Victoria|
|21||★★★ A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite|
|21 ***||★★★ ACA Route Register|
|21||★★★ Arapiles, Selected Climbs|
Overall quality score: 84%
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