Good first pitch but be careful to avoid the dangerous hollow flake immediately left of the start.
Start: Start below a crack about 10 metres down right of A Goat\'s Song.
12m (19) Climb past the bolt to the crack, avoiding touching the flake that is on your left. Finger-crack and thinning seam to large ledge.
18m (14) Move right and up to next ledge. Climb the wall to ledge with abseil anchors for A Goat's Song.
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
First Ascent: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, Aug 1998
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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