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Description

The completely separate pinnacle at the L end of the Organ Pipes.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Descent Notes

Rap station at the top.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

The uphill arete of the pinnacle. No gear at the start. Join Aardvark to finish.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1976

2
18 ** Aardvark Trad 18m

Start in the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, on the D Minor side.

The thin crack opposite Lemmington over low overlap and up R-facing flake.

Descend via rap off chains.

FA: original start by Peter Lindorff, Chris George early 70s with 2 aids

FA: that was freed by Kevin Lindorff., 1975

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Ed Neve, 1975

3
28 * Cadenza Direct Trad 18m

Start just R of the original arete start for 'Aardvark'.

The black groove to the ledge, then the short steep thin crack above

FA: Ian Speedie, John McLean (aid), 1966

FA: freed to the break at 19M3 by Alec Campbell, 1966

FFA: Dave Jones, Rich Heap, 1996

4
20 * Cadenza Trad 20m

Start at the left-leading diagonal crack.

Follow the diagonal left into the easy chimney on Cadenza Direct and up to the sloping ledge. Traverse right to a tricky exit.

FA: Michael Stone, Ian Speedie, 1965

FFA: Andrew Thomson, 1975

5
24 * The Philosopher Trad 18m

Follow the seams straight up from the start of 'Cadenza' and finish up that climb Take care as gear is hard to see and place.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger, 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Peisker, 1979

6
27 * Les Memoires d'un Ane Mixed 18m, 2

Thin and glassy.

Start 2 metres right of 'The Philosopher'

Climb past 2 bolts to join 'The Philosopher' (ignore third bolt out right). At first horizontal traverse right to flake which is followed to 'Cadenza'.

FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984

8
14 Quaver Mixed 30m, 1

Start at a flaring chimney towards the foot of the south face.

Up the chimney to a rest. Move up and L onto a mossy face and go L past a FH to the brink overlooking the gully. Then up the south wall all the way.

FA: Ian Speedie, John McLean, 1966

9
20 Semi-Quaver Mixed 30m, 3

Fairly good climbing culminating in the left arete of 'D Minor'. The strenuous crux past the last bolt is a little contrived though.

Start: Start at a short diagonal finger crack 3m right of the 'Quaver' chimney.

  1. 20m (16) Up finger crack to ledge then diagonally left into 'Quaver'. Swing up left onto slab and FH and go straight up thin centre of slab to the first belay of 'D Minor'.

  2. 10m (20) Up arete left of 'D Minor' - clip the first bolt from up L then drop back down and climb the front of the arete direct.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman. 1990s., 1994

10
15 X Minuet Trad 33m

Up unprotected face two metres L of D Minor then a short crack to join D Minor.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Peter Allen, 24th Jun

11
14 ** D Minor Trad 35m

The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle.

This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall.

Can be done in a single pitch using twin ropes.

  1. (25m, 10) Follow the crack on fine holds until jugs lead up a steepening. Easy angled ground leads to a great belay spot under the overhangs.
  2. (10m, 14) Follow the crack through the overhangs.

FA: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone, Bruce Hocking climbed the route onbut the leader finished around left where Quaver now goes and the seconds to-roped the overhangs. Jim Newlands made what should be considered the first complete ascent., 27th Jan

12
17 Crescendo Trad 35m

Essentially the right arete of D Minor.

Start 2m R of D Minor.

Up thin stepped line. Things ease off from about half-height before an exciting finish up arete.

FA: Tony Dignan, Kevin Lindorff , 1978

13
18 * Cantata Trad 35m

Good line up right side of 'D Minor' Pinnacle.

Start: Below bulging crack on arete right of 'D Minor'.

  1. 16m (16) Climb line past bulge. Varient start (19) is little flake 2 metres right of the bulging crack.

  2. 14m (18) Traverse right along the big break and take the crack up the middle of the wall. Two bulges at the top provide the excitement.

FA: Ian Speedie, John McLean. Aid reduced by Mike Stone and Keith Lockwood in 1970. Freed : Chris Baxter, 1974