D Minor Pinnacle All trad climbing14 routes in cliff
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The completely separate pinnacle at the L end of the Organ Pipes.
Access issues inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
Rap station at the top.
Ethic inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
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The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle.
This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall.
Can be done in a single pitch using twin ropes.
- (25m, 10) Follow the crack on fine holds until jugs lead up a steepening. Easy angled ground leads to a great belay spot under the overhangs.
- (10m, 14) Follow the crack through the overhangs.
FA: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone, Bruce Hocking climbed the route onbut the leader finished around left where Quaver now goes & the seconds to-roped the overhangs. Jim Newlands made what should be considered the first complete ascent., 27th Jan
Good line up right side of 'D Minor' Pinnacle.
Start: Below bulging crack on arete right of 'D Minor'.
16m (16) Climb line past bulge. Varient start (19) is little flake 2 metres right of the bulging crack.
14m (18) Traverse right along the big break and take the crack up the middle of the wall. Two bulges at the top provide the excitement.
FA: Ian Speedie, John McLean. Aid reduced by Mike Stone & Keith Lockwood in 1970. Freed : Chris Baxter, 1974