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Table of contents

1. D Minor Pinnacle 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Trad
Description:

The completely separate pinnacle at the L end of the Organ Pipes.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Descent Notes:

Rap station at the top.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Aardvark

Start in the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, on the D Minor side.

The thin crack opposite Lemmington over low overlap and up R-facing flake.

Descend via rap off chains.

FA: original start by Peter Lindorff, Chris George early 70s with 2 aids

FA: that was freed by Kevin Lindorff., 1975

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Ed Neve, 1975

18Trad 18m
2 * Cadenza Direct

Start just R of the original arete start for 'Aardvark'.

The black groove to the ledge, then the short steep thin crack above

FA: Ian Speedie, John McLean (aid), 1966

FA: freed to the break at 19M3 by Alec Campbell, 1966

FFA: Dave Jones, Rich Heap, 1996

28Trad 18m
3 * Cadenza

Start at the left-leading diagonal crack.

Follow the diagonal left into the easy chimney on Cadenza Direct and up to the sloping ledge. Traverse right to a tricky exit.

FA: Michael Stone, Ian Speedie, 1965

FFA: Andrew Thomson, 1975

20Trad 20m
4 * The Philosopher

Follow the seams straight up from the start of 'Cadenza' and finish up that climb

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger, 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Peisker , 1979

24Trad 18m
5 * Les Memoires d'un Ane

Thin and glassy.

Start 2 metres right of 'The Philosopher'

Climb past 2 bolts to join 'The Philosopher' (ignore third bolt out right). At first horizontal traverse right to flake which is followed to 'Cadenza'.

FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984

27Mixed 18m, 2
6 The Philosopher Direct 25Trad
7 Quaver

Start at a flaring chimney towards the foot of the south face.

Up the chimney to a rest. Move up and L onto a mossy face and go L past a FH to the brink overlooking the gully. Then up the south wall all the way.

FA: Ian Speedie, John McLean, 1966

14Mixed 30m, 1
8 Semi-Quaver

Fairly good climbing culminating in the left arete of 'D Minor'. The strenuous crux past the last bolt is a little contrived though.

Start: Start at a short diagonal finger crack 3m right of the 'Quaver' chimney.

  1. 20m (16) Up finger crack to ledge then diagonally left into 'Quaver'. Swing up left onto slab and FH and go straight up thin centre of slab to the first belay of 'D Minor'.

  2. 10m (20) Up arete left of 'D Minor' - clip the first bolt from up L then drop back down and climb the front of the arete direct.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman. 1990s., 1994

20Mixed 30m, 3
9 Minuet

Up unprotected face two metres L of D Minor then a short crack to join D Minor.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Peter Allen, 24th Jun

15 XTrad 33m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 ** D Minor

The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle.

This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall.

Can be done in a single pitch using twin ropes.

  1. (25m, 10) Follow the crack on fine holds until jugs lead up a steepening. Easy angled ground leads to a great belay spot under the overhangs.
  2. (10m, 14) Follow the crack through the overhangs.

FA: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone, Bruce Hocking climbed the route onbut the leader finished around left where Quaver now goes and the seconds to-roped the overhangs. Jim Newlands made what should be considered the first complete ascent., 27th Jan

14Trad 35m
11 Crescendo

Essentially the right arete of D Minor.

Start 2m R of D Minor.

Up thin stepped line. Things ease off from about half-height before an exciting finish up arete.

FA: Tony Dignan, Kevin Lindorff , 1978

17Trad 35m
12 * Cantata

Good line up right side of 'D Minor' Pinnacle.

Start: Below bulging crack on arete right of 'D Minor'.

  1. 16m (16) Climb line past bulge. Varient start (19) is little flake 2 metres right of the bulging crack.

  2. 14m (18) Traverse right along the big break and take the crack up the middle of the wall. Two bulges at the top provide the excitement.

FA: Ian Speedie, John McLean. Aid reduced by Mike Stone and Keith Lockwood in 1970. Freed : Chris Baxter, 1974

18Trad 35m
13 * Cantata Variant Start 18Trad 30m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
14 ** D Minor Trad 35m
Quaver Mixed 30m, 1
15 Minuet Trad 33m
17 Crescendo Trad 35m
18 ** Aardvark Trad 18m
* Cantata Trad 35m
* Cantata Variant Start Trad 30m
20 * Cadenza Trad 20m
Semi-Quaver Mixed 30m, 3
24 * The Philosopher Trad 18m
25 The Philosopher Direct Trad
27 * Les Memoires d'un Ane Mixed 18m, 2
28 * Cadenza Direct Trad 18m