A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 141.845178, -36.761236
- Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
- Descent Notes:
Rap station at the top.
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Aardvark Original Start
The uphill arete of the pinnacle. No gear at the start. Join Aardvark to finish.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1976
The thin crack opposite Lemmington over low overlap and up R-facing flake.
Descend via rap off chains.
FA: original start by Peter Lindorff, Chris George early 70s with 2 aids
FA: that was freed by Kevin Lindorff., 1975
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Ed Neve, 1975
Start just R of the original arete start for 'Aardvark'.
The black groove to the ledge, then the short steep thin crack above
FA: Ian Speedie, John McLean (aid), 17th Sep
FA: freed to the break at 19M3 by Alec Campbell, 1966
FFA: Dave Jones, Rich Heap, 1996
Start at the left-leading diagonal crack.
Follow the diagonal left into the easy chimney on Cadenza Direct and up to the sloping ledge. Traverse right to a tricky exit.
FA: Michael Stone, Ian Speedie, 1965
FFA: Andrew Thomson, 1975
Follow the seams straight up from the start of 'Cadenza' and finish up that climb Take care as gear is hard to see and place.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger, 1968
FFA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Peisker, 1979
Les Memoires d'un Ane
Thin and glassy.
Start 2 metres right of 'The Philosopher'
FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984
|7||The Philosopher Direct||25|
Start at a flaring chimney towards the foot of the south face.
Up the chimney to a rest. Move up and L onto a mossy face and go L past a FH to the brink overlooking the gully. Then up the south wall all the way.
FA: Ian Speedie, John McLean, 10th Jul
Fairly good climbing culminating in the left arete of 'D Minor'. The strenuous crux past the last bolt is a little contrived though.
Start: Start at a short diagonal finger crack 3m right of the 'Quaver' chimney.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman. 1990s., 1994
FA: Keith Lockwood, Peter Allen, 24th Jun
The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle.
This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall.
Can be done in a single pitch using twin ropes.
FA: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone, Bruce Hocking climbed the route onbut the leader finished around left where Quaver now goes and the seconds to-roped the overhangs. Jim Newlands made what should be considered the first complete ascent., 27th Jan
Essentially the right arete of D Minor.
Start 2m R of D Minor.
Up thin stepped line. Things ease off from about half-height before an exciting finish up arete.
FA: Tony Dignan, Kevin Lindorff , 1978
Good line up right side of 'D Minor' Pinnacle.
Start: Below bulging crack on arete right of 'D Minor'.
FA: Ian Speedie, John McLean. Aid reduced by Mike Stone and Keith Lockwood in 1970. Freed : Chris Baxter, 1974
|14||Cantata Variant Start||18||30m|
|Cantata Variant Start||30m|
|22 R||Aardvark Original Start||18m|
|25||The Philosopher Direct|
|27||Les Memoires d'un Ane||218m,|