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Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Descent Notes

Traverse off the back or rap from the station at the top of Stentor.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 R Stentor Trad 50m

Subtle line on left side of the 'D Major' Pipe. The third pitch, up the south-east face is mostly done as a climb in its own right.

Start: Front left side of 'D Major'

  1. 25m (18) crux. Climb subtle seams to ledge (fiddly small wires).

  2. 10m (5) Up chimney to ledge. The front of the thin buttress to the left is somewhat harder.

  3. 15m (16) Up greenish streak up middle of steep left wall. A bloody good pitch.

FA: Keith Egerton, Heather Phillips, Kieran Loughran (p3 previously done by the Ottens who called it Rust Never Sleeps)., 1980

2
16 Decibel Trad 50m

A few good moves up the front of the 'D Major' buttress.

Start: Start at the lowest point of the 'D Major' Buttress.

  1. 30m (16) Up easily till face steepens, up face to crack in buttress.

  2. 20m (16) Start up chimney just left of 'D Major' then step left above roof to front of juggy buttress.

FA: Chris Baxter, Rod Young, 1976

3
10 ** D Major Trad 50m

Named after the key that has "two sharp pitches".

Start: Start below the major line capped by a huge chockstone on the right wall of the pipe

  1. 25m (10) Bridge up slick groove splitting bottom half of the buttress and under the boulder. It's a good idea to belay on top of the boulder.

It is possible to escape here through the narrow cleft to the left between Piccolo Pipe and D Major Pipe

  1. 25m (10) From top of the boulder climb steep juggy buttress to chimney finish. An alternative to this pitch is to climb the chimney to the left. This is very narrow.

FA: Bruce Hocking, Mike Stone, 14th Jun

4
18 Obbligato Trad 50m

Not really inferior to 'Libretto'.

Start: As for 'D Major'.

FA: Unknown., 2000

5
16 ** Libretto Trad 50m

Beautiful, sustained first pitch followed by a short hard section.

Start: Start below the well-chalked thin cracks taking the middle of the wall right of 'D Major'.

  1. 25m (14) Sustained climbing up the thin cracks to the big cave.

  2. 25m (16) Move towards the front of the buttress and climb a short, difficult corner. Continue easily.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger., 1968

6

This is a good combination at the grade, dispensing with the cruxy second pitch of 'Libretto'.

  1. 25m (14) As for first pitch of 'Libretto'.

  2. 25m (14) As for pitch two of CS Concerto.

7
14 ** C.S. Concerto Trad 50m

A fairly good route. Most of the first pitch is spent bridging up 'Holpyp' which isn't bad and the top pitch is atmospheric.

Start: In the 'D Major' gully.

  1. 25m (-) Climb the gully until you can climb the seam on the left wall independently of the gully to cave belay.

  2. 25m (14) Mantle onto block up a little corner and then left to arete. Up steep wall to top. Finishing up the arete is more exciting at 16 but be careful with the rock.

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris O'Brien. Murray Taylor and Keith Lockwood had previously climbed pitch 2 in, 1967

8
13 Holpyp Trad 50m

One of the old gullies that gets few takers. The roof is exciting but is also part of 'Ejaculation'.

FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, Bob Bull., 1965

9
15 * Ejaculation Trad 50m

Good, varied climbing. Take some large hexes for the second pitch as the cams tend to walk their way open in a couple of spots.

Start: Start at the thin crack on the right wall of the gully.

  1. 15m (15) 'Excellent' finger layback crack on right wall of gully. Gear is excellent but pumped desperate leaders have run it out in the past and taken large falls.

  2. 35m (15) Up the widening crack and left across the sickle into 'Holpyp'. Up over the roof and carry on.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst., 1967

10
17 It Could Be Worse Trad 50m

How? The initial crack of 'Ejaculation' and then straight up from the plaque.

FA: Brigitte and Jon Muir.., 1984