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Table of contents

1. Diapason Pipe 9 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Organ Pipes Area

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Quiet Time

A good pump in the Organ Pipes?

Start: Start left of 'Diapason' 2m right 'Ejaculation' beneath obvious overlap.

FA: Hoskins, Wilkins, Pritchard, 1995

23 Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 ** Diapason

The first climb done in the 'Organ Pipes'. A very pleasant outing.

Start: Start 8 metres left of big dead gum tree.

  1. 20m (7) Follow crack, or face just left of crack, up buttress to ledge and the former location of a plaque to climbing pioneer Bob Craddock (who died in a car accident).

  2. 25m (6) Step up and right around to the front of buttress and up to belay left of big tilted boulder.

  3. 10m (8) Up short wall just left of boulder then up flaring chimney. An alternative to this pitch is to traverse left for 3 metres above the void and then climb the steep wall 7 metres left of the chimney. Optional fourth pitch is grade 10: From big ledge climb steep wall on right and finish up a crack on the left of the pinnacle. No one seems to do this these days but it is quite good.

FA: Steve and Bob Cradock. Rob Taylor had previosly climbed the first pitch., 31st Dec

8 Trad 55m 3
3 Fugue

Another gully.

FA: Bernie Lyons, Steve Craddock., 6th Mar

12 Trad 63m
4 Juvenile Speed

A short, hard avoidable crux set amid a lot of easy climbing.

Start: Start as for 'Keyboard'.

  1. 45m (12) Up 'Keyboard' until just above tree. Walk left and climb flake line just right of gully. Step left to belay on huge chockstone.

  2. 32m (19) Step back right and up steep line through rooflet and then easily up.

FA: John Stone, Richard Evans.., 1979

19 Trad 75m 2
5 Keyboard

Deep crack on left side of 'Conifer Crack' buttress. Take some large gear.

Start: In the gully between the 'Diapason' and 'Conifer Crack' pipes.

FA: Clive Parker, Chris Baxter., 1968

9 Trad 25m
6 * Conifer Crack

Very entertaining. Just be aware that at times you have to climb on large apparently detached blocks.

Start: 1 metre left of where the the big dead tree was until last Friday (i.e. left-hand crack on front of buttress).

  1. 40m (9) Slabby thin crack on left side of buttress to ledge. Step right and pull through bulge then straight up to huge ledge.

  2. 40m (9) Behind are twin V cracks up the right side of the buttress. It is usual to move straight up from the ledge and then move across right and climb the right-hand crack but either crack is OK. An optional third pitch is to climb the blade of rock at the end of the second pitch.

FA: Chris Davis, Ian Guild., 14th Jun

9 Trad 80m 2
7 Woodwind

The central line up the 'Conifer Crack' buttress is unfortunately not very sustained. Also it has a habit of dealing out broken ankles to leaders falling at the end of the crux.

Start: Just right of 'Conifer Crack'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Neil Barr., 1982

16 Trad 30m
8 G String

The gully between the second pitch of 'Conifer Crack' and the 'Red Wall'. For the conoisseur of chossy gully routes.

Start: At the first belay of 'Conifer Crack'.

FA: Mike Stone, Ian Speedie., 16th Jan

10 Trad 30m
9 Fiddle Diddle

Desperate for short people.

Start: Below the gully between the 'Conifer Crack' and 'Didgeridoo' pipes, immediately right of 'Woodwind'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Moss., 1983

14 Trad 30m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
8 ** Diapason Trad 55m 3
9 * Conifer Crack Trad 80m 2
Keyboard Trad 25m
10 G String Trad 30m
12 Fugue Trad 63m
14 Fiddle Diddle Trad 30m
16 Woodwind Trad 30m
19 Juvenile Speed Trad 75m 2
23 * Quiet Time Trad 20m