Routes in Central Organ Pipes

1. 18m (11) Climb the front of the pipe past smooth bulge to small ledge. This cramped belay is usually avoided.

2. 15m (11) Continue up to top bulge which is easiest on right. Downclimb far side of pinnacle into Organ Pipes Gully to get off.

Subtle line on left side of the D Major Pipe. The third pitch, up the south-east face is mostly done as a climb in its own right.

1. 25m (18) Climb subtle seams to ledge (fiddly small wires).

2. 10m (5) Up chimney to ledge. The front of the thin buttress to the left is somewhat harder.

3. 15m (16) Up greenish streak up middle of steep left wall to rap anchor. A bloody good pitch.

A few good moves up the front of the D Major buttress. Start at the lowest point of the buttress.

1. 30m (16) Up easily till face steepens, up face to crack in buttress.

2. 20m (16) Start up chimney just left of D Major then step left above roof to front of juggy buttress.

Named after the key that has "two sharp pitches". It is possible to escape from the first belay through the narrow cleft to the left between Piccolo Pipe and D Major Pipe.

Start below the major line capped by a huge chockstone on the right wall of the D Major pipe.

1. 25m (10) Bridge up slick groove splitting bottom half of the buttress and under the boulder. It's a good idea to belay on top of the boulder.

2. 25m (10) From top of the boulder climb steep juggy buttress to chimney finish. An alternative to this pitch is to climb the chimney to the left. This is very narrow.

Start as for D Major, then take the line between D Major and Libretto.

Beautiful, sustained first pitch followed by a short hard section. Start below the well-chalked thin cracks taking the middle of the wall right of D Major.

1. 25m (14) Sustained climbing up the thin cracks to the big cave.

2. 25m (16) Move towards the front of the buttress and climb a short, difficult corner. Continue easily.

This is a good combination at the grade, dispensing with the cruxy second pitch of Libretto.

1. 25m (14) As for first pitch of Libretto.

2. 25m (14) As for pitch two of CS Concerto.

A fairly good route. Most of the first pitch is spent bridging up Holpyp which isn't bad and the top pitch is atmospheric. Start in the D Major gully.

1. 25m (-) Climb the gully until you can climb the seam on the left wall independently of the gully to cave belay.

2. 25m (14) Mantle onto block up a little corner and then left to arete. Up steep wall to top. Finishing up the arete is more exciting at 16 but be careful with the rock.

One of the old gullies that gets few takers. The roof is exciting but is also part of Ejaculation.

Good, varied climbing. Take some large hexes for the second pitch as the cams tend to walk their way open in a couple of spots. Start at the thin crack on the right wall of the gully.

1. 15m (15) Excellent finger layback crack on right wall of gully. Gear is excellent but pumped desperate leaders have run it out in the past and taken large falls.

2. 35m (15) Up the widening crack and left across the sickle into Holpyp. Up over the roof and carry on.

How? The initial crack of Ejaculation and then straight up from the plaque.

A good pump in the Organ Pipes? Start left of Diapason, 2m right of Ejaculation, beneath obvious overlap.

The first climb done in the Organ Pipes. A very pleasant outing. Start 8 metres left of big dead gum tree.

1. 20m (7) Follow crack, or face just left of crack, up buttress to ledge and the former location of a plaque to climbing pioneer Bob Craddock (who died in a car accident).

2. 25m (6) Step up and right around to the front of buttress and up to belay left of big tilted boulder.

3. 10m (8) Up short wall just left of boulder then up flaring chimney. An alternative to this pitch is to traverse left for 3 metres above the void and then climb the steep wall 7 metres left of the chimney. Optional fourth pitch is grade 10: From big ledge climb steep wall on right and finish up a crack on the left of the pinnacle. No one seems to do this these days but it is quite good.

Another gully.

A short, hard avoidable crux set amid a lot of easy climbing. Start as for Keyboard.

1. 45m (12) Up Keyboard until just above tree. Walk left and climb flake line just right of gully. Step left to belay on huge chockstone.

2. 32m (19) Step back right and up steep line through rooflet and then easily up.

Deep crack on left side of Conifer Crack buttress, in the gully. Take some large gear.

Very entertaining. Just be aware that at times you have to climb on large apparently detached blocks. Start 1 metre left of where the the big dead tree was until last Friday (i.e. left-hand crack on front of buttress).

1. 40m (9) Slabby thin crack on left side of buttress to ledge. Step right and pull through bulge then straight up to huge ledge.

2. 40m (9) Behind are twin V cracks up the right side of the buttress. It is usual to move straight up from the ledge and then move across right and climb the right-hand crack but either crack is OK. An optional third pitch is to climb the blade of rock at the end of the second pitch.

The central line up the Conifer Crack buttress is unfortunately not very sustained. Also it has a habit of dealing out broken ankles to leaders falling at the end of the crux. Start just right of Conifer Crack.

Desperate for short people. Start below the gully between the Conifer Crack and Didgeridoo pipes, immediately right of Woodwind.

Not attractive. Start as for Fiddle until the gully and then climb the wall 1 metre left of that climb avoiding bridging, stepping onto block or drifting into Didgeridoo.

The left arete of the Didgeridoo buttress (the abseil route) looks good but protection is fiddly and there's a large hollow block that would ruin your day if it came off. Start as for Didgeridoo/Horn Piece.

Start as for Horn Piece on the Didgeridoo Pipe. Veers left from Horn Piece near the top, avoiding the bulging headwall. This climb originally started up a short crack up on the right side of the pipe but this is not much fun. Very sustained at the grade.

The excellent thin cracks up the middle of the front of this pillar. Very good and sustained. Take lots of small wires and cams.

A toprope route keeping just right of Horn Piece offers another option for a busy day. Rig from the Horn Piece bolts - long slings or cordalette. Could be lead-climbed but it is somewhat contrived and initial slab is unprotected - no bolt please. Start 2m right of Horn Piece just left of grotty crack. Slab to bushy crack. After crack follow Rhand side of arete. Pass small triangular overhang then move R and up to anchor.

Start at a crack just right of the second pitch of Conifer Crack. This looks ordinary but it makes for a good continuation from Horn Piece or the other single pitches that lead to the big ledge.

Climb Hornpipe for ~5m, then move left and up past a bolt (crux) and through a crack to a ledge. At the ledge move right to climb another crack, past another bolt. Ends at the same height as pitch 2 of Conifer Crack at a rap station.

Start at the first belay of Conifer Crack and climb the gully between the second pitch of Conifer Crack and the Red Wall. For the connoisseur of chossy gully routes.