The first climb done in the 'Organ Pipes'. A very pleasant outing. Start: Start 8 metres left of big dead gum tree. 1. 20m (7) Follow crack, or face just left of crack, up buttress to ledge and the former location of a plaque to climbing pioneer Bob Craddock (who died in a car accident). 2. 25m (6) Step up and right around to the front of buttress and up to belay left of big tilted boulder. 3. 10m (8) Up short wall just left of boulder then up flaring chimney. An alternative to this pitch is to traverse left for 3 metres above the void and then climb the steep wall 7 metres left of the chimney. Optional fourth pitch is grade 10: From big ledge climb steep wall on right and finish up a crack on the left of the pinnacle. No one seems to do this these days but it is quite good.
Deep crack on left side of 'Conifer Crack' buttress. Take some large gear. Start: In the gully between the 'Diapason' and 'Conifer Crack' pipes.
|6|| Conifer Crack
Very entertaining. Just be aware that at times you have to climb on large apparently detached blocks. Start: 1 metre left of where the the big dead tree was until last Friday (i.e. left-hand crack on front of buttress). 1. 40m (9) Slabby thin crack on left side of buttress to ledge. Step right and pull through bulge then straight up to huge ledge. 2. 40m (9) Behind are twin V cracks up the right side of the buttress. It is usual to move straight up from the ledge and then move across right and climb the right-hand crack but either crack is OK. An optional third pitch is to climb the blade of rock at the end of the second pitch.
Subtle line on left side of the 'D Major' Pipe. The third pitch, up the south-east face is mostly done as a climb in its own right. Start: Front left side of 'D Major' 1. 25m (18) crux. Climb subtle seams to ledge (fiddly small wires). 2. 10m (5) Up chimney to ledge. The front of the thin buttress to the left is somewhat harder. 3. 15m (16) Up greenish streak up middle of steep left wall. A bloody good pitch.
|17 R||350m||Unlink route|
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