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Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Descent Notes

Rap from chains at top of Didgeridoo.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
14 Cod Piece Trad 30m

Not attractive.

Start: Start as for 'Fiddle' until the gully and then climb the wall 1 metre left of that climb avoiding bridging, stepping onto block or drifting into Didgeridoo.

FA: Hoskins, Pritchard & Wilkins, 1995

2
15 R Fiddle Trad 30m

The left arete of the 'Didgeridoo' buttress (the abseil route) looks good but protection is fiddly and there's a large hollow block that would ruin your day if it came off.

Start: As for Didgeridoo/Horn Piece.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Halvard Andersen-Dalheim., 1984

3
11 * Didgeridoo Trad 35m

On the 'Didgeridoo' Pipe. Veers left from 'Horn Piece' near the top, avoiding the bulging headwall. This climb originally started up a short crack up on the right side of the pipe but this is not much fun. Very sustained at the grade.

Start: As for 'Horn Piece'.

FA: Ian Speedie, Garry Kerkin & Mike Stone., 15th May

4
13 ** Horn Piece Trad 33m

Very good and sustained. Take lots of small wires and cams.

FA: Chris Baxter & Matt Taylor, 1976

5
15 Hornpipe Trad 33m

This pitch right of the second pitch of 'Conifer Crack' looks ordinary but it makes for a good continuation from 'Horn Piece' or the other single pitches that lead to the big ledge.

Start: Start at a crack just right of the second pitch of 'Conifer Crack'

FA: Wayne Maher, Peter Cunningham & Peter Watling, 1981