A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
- Descent Notes:
Rap from chains at top of Didgeridoo.
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
FA: Hoskins, Pritchard, Wilkins, 1995
The left arete of the 'Didgeridoo' buttress (the abseil route) looks good but protection is fiddly and there's a large hollow block that would ruin your day if it came off.
Start: As for Didgeridoo/Horn Piece.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Halvard Andersen-Dalheim., 1984
On the 'Didgeridoo' Pipe. Veers left from 'Horn Piece' near the top, avoiding the bulging headwall. This climb originally started up a short crack up on the right side of the pipe but this is not much fun. Very sustained at the grade.
Start: As for 'Horn Piece'.
FA: Ian Speedie, Garry Kerkin, Mike Stone., 15th May
Very good and sustained. Take lots of small wires and cams.
FA: Chris Baxter, Matt Taylor, 1976
Start: Start at a crack just right of the second pitch of 'Conifer Crack'
FA: Wayne Maher, Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling, 1981