Did you know?

You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Description

The orange upper wall behind Didgeridoo.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting October-December 2014 Cassandra Eurydice Raptors are nesting on these climbs. Please avoid the climbs until the young leave the nest (mid-December).

State Park

Approach

Climb any of the routes from Keyboard to Horn Piece or solo up the gully between Conifer Crack and Didgeridoo Pipe.

Descent Notes

Rap station at top of Tannin (30m abseil).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
24 * Abbie Normal Trad 24m

Bridge up gully to clip bolt. Up blunt arete past another bolt to join Wyrd, up corner and flake. L at bolt to jugs, up thinly past another (bolt, not jug) to rings.

Start: Start just L of Wyrd.

FA: Douglas Hockly, Ingvar Lidman, 2002

2
19 Wyrd Trad 50m

Funky climbing and route-finding. The moves up to the roof are committing.

Start: Start on the left side of the grey pedestal.

FA: Mike Law, Matt Taylor, 1976

3
21 * Wyrd Direct Trad 21m

Straightens out Wyrd with some committing climbing.

FA: Tony Marian, Hugh Foxcroft (1 aid). Freed: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd Jan 1979., 1978

5
19 *** Tannin Trad 35m

Nice video (in two parts) can be found here:- http://www.chockstone.org/GalleryArapsVideo.htm

FA: Andrew Thomson, Dave Mudie, 1976

6
20 ** Tannin Direct Trad 20m

Makes a good change.

FA: Jon Muir, Tony Dignan, Geoff Little., 1985

7
21 ** The Wraith Trad 35m

This lovely wall was a very bold first ascent. 'Small' wires now give reasonable protection but sport climbers wouldn't want to be getting on this for their first trad 21.

Start: Just right of 'Tannin'.

FA: Andrew Thomson, Greg Child, 1976

8

Not especially attractive.

Start: Just right of Wraith.

FA: Ant Prehn, Jon Muir.., 1986

9
19 * F Sharp Trad 40m

This good crack system is the only surviving piece of a long-forgotten girdle traverse of the 'Organ Pipes'. Perhaps it would have had more credibility if it had started with a tyrolean from the top of the 'D Minor' Pinnacle.

The bolts on this need sorting out. They are all old carrots, many unneccessary and in the wrong places for free climbing.

Start: At a little corner below and right of 'The Wraith'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Tim Hancock.. Freed Chris Baxter, Kevin Lindorff, Mike Stone. May 1976., 1970