A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
The orange upper wall behind Didgeridoo.
- Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
- Descent Notes:
Rap station at top of Tannin (30m abseil).
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Bridge up gully to clip bolt. Up blunt arete past another bolt to join Wyrd, up corner and flake. L at bolt to jugs, up thinly past another (bolt, not jug) to rings.
Start: Start just L of Wyrd.
FA: Douglas Hockly, Ingvar Lidman, 2002
Funky climbing and route-finding. The moves up to the roof are committing.
Start: Start on the left side of the grey pedestal.
FA: Mike Law, Matt Taylor, 1976
Straightens out Wyrd with some committing climbing.
FA: Tony Marian, Hugh Foxcroft (1 aid). Freed: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd Jan 1979., 1978
|4||Wyrd Left Hand Variant||22|
Nice video (in two parts) can be found here:- http://www.chockstone.org/GalleryArapsVideo.htm
FA: Andrew Thomson, Dave Mudie, 1976
Makes a good change.
FA: Jon Muir, Tony Dignan, Geoff Little., 1985
This lovely wall was a very bold first ascent. 'Small' wires now give reasonable protection but sport climbers wouldn't want to be getting on this for their first trad 21.
Start: Just right of 'Tannin'.
FA: Andrew Thomson, Greg Child, 1976
Sissy Bars and Super Freaks
Not especially attractive.
Start: Just right of Wraith.
FA: Ant Prehn, Jon Muir.., 1986
This good crack system is the only surviving piece of a long-forgotten girdle traverse of the 'Organ Pipes'. Perhaps it would have had more credibility if it had started with a tyrolean from the top of the 'D Minor' Pinnacle.
The bolts on this need sorting out. They are all old carrots, many unneccessary and in the wrong places for free climbing.
Start: At a little corner below and right of 'The Wraith'.
FA: Chris Baxter, Tim Hancock.. Freed Chris Baxter, Kevin Lindorff, Mike Stone. May 1976., 1970
|22||Wyrd Left Hand Variant|
|23||Sissy Bars and Super Freaks||30m|