A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. The Red Wall 9 routes in Cliff

All Trad

The orange upper wall behind Didgeridoo.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park


Climb any of the routes from Keyboard to Horn Piece or solo up the gully between Conifer Crack and Didgeridoo Pipe.

Descent Notes:

Rap station at top of Tannin (30m abseil).

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Abbie Normal

Bridge up gully to clip bolt. Up blunt arete past another bolt to join Wyrd, up corner and flake. L at bolt to jugs, up thinly past another (bolt, not jug) to rings.

Start: Just L of Wyrd.

FA: Douglas Hockly, Ingvar Lidman, 2002

24 Trad 24m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Wyrd

Funky climbing and route-finding. The moves up to the roof are committing.

Start: On the left side of the grey pedestal.

FA: Mike Law, Matt Taylor, 1976

19 Trad 50m
3 * Wyrd Direct

Straightens out Wyrd with some committing climbing.

FA: Tony Marian, Hugh Foxcroft (1 aid). Freed: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd Jan 1979., 1978

21 Trad 21m
4 Wyrd Left Hand Variant 22 Trad
5 *** Tannin

Nice video (in two parts) can be found here:- http://www.chockstone.org/GalleryArapsVideo.htm

FA: Andrew Thomson, Dave Mudie, 1976

19 Trad 35m
6 *** Tannin Direct

Makes a good change.

FA: Jon Muir, Tony Dignan, Geoff Little., 1985

20 Trad 20m
7 *** The Wraith

This lovely wall was a very bold first ascent. 'Small' wires now give reasonable protection but sport climbers wouldn't want to be getting on this for their first trad 21.

Start: Just right of 'Tannin'.

FA: Andrew Thomson, Greg Child, 1976

21 Trad 35m
8 Sissy Bars and Super Freaks

Great moves on thin face cruxy past second bolt, finish straight up or traverse to finish wraith or tannin

Start: Just right of Wraith.

FA: Ant Prehn, Jon Muir.., 1986

23 Trad 30m
9 * F Sharp

This good crack system is the only surviving piece of a long-forgotten girdle traverse of the 'Organ Pipes'. Perhaps it would have had more credibility if it had started with a tyrolean from the top of the 'D Minor' Pinnacle.

The bolts on this need sorting out. They are all old carrots, many unneccessary and in the wrong places for free climbing.

Start: At a little corner below and right of 'The Wraith'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Tim Hancock.. Freed Chris Baxter, Kevin Lindorff, Mike Stone. May 1976., 1970

19 Trad 40m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
19 * F Sharp Trad 40m
*** Tannin Trad 35m
Wyrd Trad 50m
20 *** Tannin Direct Trad 20m
21 *** The Wraith Trad 35m
* Wyrd Direct Trad 21m
22 Wyrd Left Hand Variant Trad
23 Sissy Bars and Super Freaks Trad 30m
24 * Abbie Normal Trad 24m