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Description

R of Didgeridoo Pipe

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Organ Pipes Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Descent notes

Scramble up and L then down Organ Pipes Gully.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 Low Note Trad 30m

A worthless approach to what eventually became Jen's Roof.

Bridge up the gully left of Dirge then out right to short thin crack. From crack go right into Dirge and up this to roof on right. Hand-traverse right on the lip of the roof to FH and finish up Jen's Roof.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Chris Baxter., 1984

2
17 ** Dirge Trad 85m

Really nice climbing with an exciting blast up the finishing flake. Go up onto a terrace a few metres above ground level in the gully just right of the Didgeridoo Pipe. Follow the crack up past the left side of the overhang at 25 metres and on up the flake continuation. It is possible to do a harder finish (18) by traversing across the blank wall to the final flake system of F Sharp but there doesn't seem to be much point. This variant by Lockwood and Ed Neve 23/7/1977. Second pitch is complete rubbish so abseil/lower 30m from chains into gully 5m above ground.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter., 1974

3
9 Bass Clef Trad 66m

This is quite a good chimney and the rap anchor lets you avoid the cruddy finish.

Start: Below the next buttress right of the 'Didgeridoo' Pipe.

Scramble up 6 metres into the gully on the left of the buttress then traverse right until below the chimney. Climb up into the chimney and follow it (originally climbed up the left edge of the chimney for a bit, now done as part of Jen's Roof ) past the roof on the left. Belay on left about 5 metres above the roof at chains. 30 metre abseil or continue up crud to the top.

FA: Ian Speedie & Michael Stone, 1964

4
18 ** Jens roof Mixed 30m, 1

A good solution to this buttress spotted by Jen Woods, going up to and left through the overhang. The route ties together bits of three other climbs, Humouresque, Bass Clef and Low Note, into something that is much better than any of the others.

Start where you would scramble up to 'Dirge' but stay at ground level.

Go straight up to the base of a chimney (Bass Clef) and follow the arete between the chimney and the smooth face to the left. The climbing gets harder towards the overhang (small wires). Go diagonally left through roof, bolt at lip, up through middle of roof to easier climbing and 30m rap anchor.

FA: Muki Woods/Ingvar Lidman, 2007

5
17 Humouresque Trad 75m 4

The late Dennis Kemp said that this was one of only two climbs that he had done at 'Arapiles' that he would not consider repeating.

Start: As for Jen's Roof.

  1. 30m (17) Up Jen's Roof for a few metres then up right on black slab to foot of a crack. Up this crack to a stance atop a short chimney. The abseil chain on 'Tremulo' should be accessible from here, not that we're suggesting running away or anything like that.

  2. 15m (-) Step left and climb front of buttress.

  3. 25m (-) Up crest of buttress finishing steeply past gnome.

  4. 5m (-) The crack behind. Rope drag could be a problem.

FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder., 1981

6
14 ** Tremulo Trad 25m

Really good climbing on the first 25 metres. With the abseil anchor the awful climbing above this can now be forgotten.

Start: At short chimney 5 metres right of Jen's Roof. Up chimney then on up the narrowing line finishing with some face moves just to the left. Chain anchor.

FA: Phil Seccombe.., 1966

7
22 R Friendless Trad 40m

Good climbing with hard start and finish but gets few ascents and is sinking beneath the moss. The finish is quite scarey.

Start: Start 2 metres right of 'Tremulo' at seam.

FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran.., 2000

8
17 ** Discord Direct Mixed 25m, 3

As appears in new mentz/tempest select guide (2008).

Excellent climb for the grade. Absorbing from bottom to top.

FA: Digby Gotts (Direct Start)

FA: Richard Curtis & Phillip Armstrong (Direct Finish), 1980

9
15 Discord Trad 42m

As per the Old Green Guide: "DISCORD (140'):- A sustained and technically interesting climb with excellent protection. Grade:- Hard Severe

  1. 40' Move right up the ramp leading to the base of 'Toccata' and about 15' to the left of 'Toccata', traverse left a few feet to a good ledge and bolt runner. Climb the shallow groove with difficulty to a resting place and a second bolt runner. Move out right and attain a standing position on top of the obvious square block on the smooth face on the right. Move back left to a good ledge and bolt belay a few feet above the last runner.

  2. 100' Step four feet onto the arête and go up to beneath the overhangs. Move back right to join the original line and fix the first runner of the second pitch. Continue in the same line, via a narrow awkward chimney, to the top.

FA: Peter Jackson & Reg Williams -Alternate leads, 1965

10
22 A Concerted Effort Trad 45m 2

Beautiful rock but a bit contrived.

Start: Start as for 'Discord'.

  1. 25m (22) Follow the line of 'Discord' and continue up, keeping as far to the right as possible. At headwall step right to a bulging thin crack which is followed to a ledge. The direct start (23) climbs past a bolt to join this pitch. Graham Jones March 1986. There is a carrot bolt low down which looks like it might be the direct start. There is also a FH a good deal higher than the carrot whose role is not clear.

  2. 20m (-) The crack above.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Chris Baxter (alt) & Kim Carrigan., 1982

12
15 Wingnuts in Heaven Trad 10m

Not great.

FA: Doug & Tara Wingfield., 1989

13
22 Whiteman's Country Trad 10m

Hardly a recommendation.

FA: Freed by Malcolm Matheson.., 1981

14
15 ** Toccata Trad 50m 2

A stunning line on glorious water-washed rock. Protection is excellent despite and huge camming devices are not essential.

Take two ropes for the 50 metre abseil.

Start: Below the large smooth corner at the right end of the 'Organ Pipes'.

  1. 27m (15) Sustained climbing up the corner to hard moves past the little roof into a bottomless chimney. Up to a good ledge.

  2. 23m (13) The lovely square-cut chimney. Rap off or walk up the gully to the top.

FA: Peter Jackson & Bob Bull, 1965

15

Makes a worthwhile route out of Yossarian. Right of Toccata is a crack up the left side of a short buttress.

  1. Step right from the start of Toccata into crack and up to ledge. Follow seams up and right past small and fiddly gear. Where seam blanks out, step left and continue up to base of Toccata's chimney.

  2. The wide crack of Yossarian looks rubbish. Just finish up Toccata.

FA: Wendy Eden & Kate Dooley, 2015

16
17 Yossarian Trad 48m 2

A hard few moves on the crux but a bit disappointing overall.

Start: Start on the grey buttress just right of 'Toccata'.

  1. 13m (10) The buttress to a small stance about 6 metres below and left of prominent roof.

  2. 35m (17) Up diagonally right from 2-3 metres to an awkward mantleshelf then an unlikely traverse back left to a thin crack. Go up into a wider, bottomless crack just right of 'Toccata'. The easiest way off is probably to scramble around (roped) to the abseil anchors on 'Toccata'.

FA: Peter McKeand & Gordon Talbett.

17
15 * Sonatine Trad 48m 2

Lovely corner on the second pitch.

Start: Scramble up the gully right of 'Toccata' under a chockstone to below an easy wall. Could also start as for 'Yossarian' but it doesn't add much value.

  1. 13m (-) Climb up to Yossarian's first belay then move right and up to belay on the obvious block below the right side of the prominen roof. You could also do the first pitch of 'Hot Air Symposium' which is just a few metres to the right.

  2. 35m (15) Difficult move up to right side of roof then continue up corner.

FA: Peter Watling & Ross Digby., 1979

18
11 Deflated Trad 35m 2

Dirty. This and the next two climbs were named in honour of Chris Dewhirst's inglorious attempt at hot air ballooning at 'Arapiles'.

Start: Start at the short, easy corner.

  1. 15m (-) Up the easy corner and follow the ramp to belay on ledge at top left, just right of Sonatine's belay. All very easy but a rope might be called for.

  2. 35m (11) Step up and right onto wall and then take line going straight up.

FA: Francine Gilfedder & Chris Baxter., 1981

19
13 Hot Air Symposium Trad 35m 2

Good steep finish. Will clean up well with traffic. Originally started as for 'Deflated' but the direct start also described is much better.

Start: Start at the short corner as for 'Deflated'.

  1. 15m (-) Up short corner and left up ramp to ledge at top left. Or Direct Start (11): About 8 metres left of the corner, 5 metres right of chockstone at an obvious mantle move on the smooth wall. Up the smooth wall, the wall behind can help but is not necessary, no protection for first 5 metres then head slightly right to big ledge.

  2. 25m (13) Step right off detached block on right edge of ledge and up wall to finish up right-hand crack on steep wall. Left-hand crack is 'Alychne'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Francine Gilfedder. 01-08-1981. Direct Start 1 : Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth., 2008

20

Quite dicky on the initial face and protectionon the middle section is not the best. A good climb which would improve with traffic. Originally done in two pitches but much safer to do as one.

Start: Start at the small corner as for 'Deflated' etc.

FA: FRancine Gilfedder & Chris Baxter., 1981

21
14 Alychne Trad 40m

The Aychne is apparently a line of zero luminance (Talbett is an optometrist). However this climb isn't that bad but gets very little traffic. Moss and dirt aren't as much of a problem as it appears. Protection is a bit fiddly on the crux and not good on the first section of the traverse. Double ropes are very useful.

Start: Start 2 metres right of the short corner, just left of an easy, grotty crack.

FA: Gordon Talbett & Peter McKeand., 1968

22
14 Middle 8 Trad 10m

Above 'Toccata' there is a small bowl ringed by cliffs (The Cirque of the Climbables). On the right wall there is potential for some new routes. Start in the middle of the wall on the black rock, go up then slightly right into line and to top.

Start:

FA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins & Chris Frost., 2000

Activity

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