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Description

R of Didgeridoo Pipe

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Descent Notes

Scramble up and L then down Organ Pipes Gully.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 ** Dirge Trad 85m

Quite sustained and technical with an exciting blast up the finishing flake.

Start: On a terrace a few metres above ground level in the gully just right of the 'Didgeridoo' Pipe.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter., 1974

2
18 Jens roof Mixed 30m, 1

A good solution to this buttress spotted by Jen Woods, going up to and left through the overhang. The route ties together bits of three other climbs into something that is much better than any of the others.

Start: Start where you would scramble up to 'Dirge' but stay at ground level.

FA: Muki Woods/Ingvar Lidman, 2007

3
20 Low Note Trad 30m

A worthless approach to what eventually became Jen's Roof.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Chris Baxter., 1984

4
9 Bass Clef Trad 66m

This is quite a good chimney and the rap anchor lets you avoid the cruddy finish.

Start: Below the next buttress right of the 'Didgeridoo' Pipe.

FA: Ian Speedie, Michael Stone, 4th Oct

5
17 Humouresque Trad 75m

The late Dennis Kemp said that this was one of only two climbs that he had done at 'Arapiles' that he would not consider repeating.

Start: As for Jen's Roof.

  1. 30m (17) Up Jen's Roof for a few metres then up right on black slab to foot of a crack. Up this crack to a stance atop a short chimney. The abseil chain on 'Tremulo' should be accessible from here, not that we're suggesting running away or anything like that.

  2. 15m (-) Step left and climb front of buttress.

  3. 25m (-) Up crest of buttress finishing steeply past gnome.

  4. 5m (-) The crack behind. Rope drag could be a problem.

FA: Chris Baxter, Francine Gilfedder., 1981

6
14 * Tremulo Trad 66m

Really good climbing on the first 25 metres. With the abseil anchor the awful climbing above this can now be forgotten.

Start: At short chimney 5 metres right of Jen's Roof.

FA: Phil Seccombe.., 1966

7
22 R Friendless Trad 40m

Good climbing with hard start and finish but gets few ascents and is sinking beneath the moss. The finish is quite scarey.

Start: Start 2 metres right of 'Tremulo' at seam.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran.., 2000

8
17 * Discord Direct Mixed 25m, 3

As appears in new mentz/tempest select guide (2008).

Excellent climb for the grade. Absorbing from bottom to top.

FA: Richard Curtis, Phillip Armstrong (Direct Finish)

FA: Digby Gotts (Direct Start)

FA: Dick Curtis, Phillip Armstrong

9
15 Discord Trad 42m

As per the Old Green Guide: "DISCORD (140'):- A sustained and technically interesting climb with excellent protection. Grade:- Hard Severe

  1. 40' Move right up the ramp leading to the base of 'Toccata' and about 15' to the left of 'Toccata', traverse left a few feet to a good ledge and bolt runner. Climb the shallow groove with difficulty to a resting place and a second bolt runner. Move out right and attain a standing position on top of the obvious square block on the smooth face on the right. Move back left to a good ledge and bolt belay a few feet above the last runner.

  2. 100' Step four feet onto the arête and go up to beneath the overhangs. Move back right to join the original line and fix the first runner of the second pitch. Continue in the same line, via a narrow awkward chimney, to the top.

FA: Peter Jackson, Reg Williams -Alternate leads, 1965

10
22 A Concerted Effort Trad 45m

Beautiful rock but a bit contrived.

Start: Start as for 'Discord'.

  1. 25m (22) Follow the line of 'Discord' and continue up, keeping as far to the right as possible. At headwall step right to a bulging thin crack which is followed to a ledge. The direct start (23) climbs past a bolt to join this pitch. Graham Jones March 1986. There is a carrot bolt low down which looks like it might be the direct start. There is also a FH a good deal higher than the carrot whose role is not clear.

  2. 20m (-) The crack above.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Chris Baxter (alt), Kim Carrigan., 1982

12
15 Wingnuts in Heaven Trad 10m

Not great.

FA: Doug and Tara Wingfield., 1989

13
22 Whiteman's Country Trad 10m

Hardly a recommendation.

FA: Freed by Malcolm Matheson.., 1981

14
14 ** Toccata Trad 50m

A stunning line on glorious water-washed rock. Protection is excellent despite and huge camming devices are not essential.

Take two ropes for the 50 metre abseil.

Start: Below the large smooth corner at the right end of the 'Organ Pipes'.

  1. 27m (15) Sustained climbing up the corner to hard moves past the little roof into a bottomless chimney. Up to a good ledge.

  2. 23m (13) The lovely square-cut chimney. Rap off or walk up the gully to the top.

FA: Peter Jackson, Bob Bull, 1965

15
17 Yossarian Trad 48m

A hard few moves on the crux but a bit disappointing overall.

Start: Start on the grey buttress just right of 'Toccata'.

  1. 13m (10) The buttress to a small stance about 6 metres below and left of prominent roof.

  2. 35m (17) Up diagonally right from 2-3 metres to an awkward mantleshelf then an unlikely traverse back left to a thin crack. Go up into a wider, bottomless crack just right of 'Toccata'. The easiest way off is probably to scramble around (roped) to the abseil anchors on 'Toccata'.

FA: Peter McKeand, Gordon Talbett.

16
15 Sonatine Trad 48m

Lovely corner on the second pitch.

Start: Scramble up the gully right of 'Toccata' under a chockstone to below an easy wall. Could also start as for 'Yossarian' but it doesn't add much value.

  1. 13m (-) Climb up to Yossarian's first belay then move right and up to belay on the obvious block below the right side of the prominen roof. You could also do the first pitch of 'Hot Air Symposium' which is just a few metres to the right.

  2. 35m (15) Difficult move up to right side of roof then continue up corner.

FA: Peter Watling, Ross Digby., 1979

17
11 Deflated Trad 35m

Dirty. This and the next two climbs were named in honour of Chris Dewhirst's inglorious attempt at hot air ballooning at 'Arapiles'.

Start: Start at the short, easy corner.

  1. 15m (-) Up the easy corner and follow the ramp to belay on ledge at top left, just right of Sonatine's belay. All very easy but a rope might be called for.

  2. 35m (11) Step up and right onto wall and then take line going straight up.

FA: Francine Gilfedder, Chris Baxter., 1981

18
13 Hot Air Symposium Trad 35m

Good steep finish. Will clean up well with traffic. Originally started as for 'Deflated' but the direct start also described is much better.

Start: Start at the short corner as for 'Deflated'.

  1. 15m (-) Up short corner and left up ramp to ledge at top left. Or Direct Start (11): About 8 metres left of the corner, 5 metres right of chockstone at an obvious mantle move on the smooth wall. Up the smooth wall, the wall behind can help but is not necessary, no protection for first 5 metres then head slightly right to big ledge.

  2. 25m (13) Step right off detached block on right edge of ledge and up wall to finish up right-hand crack on steep wall. Left-hand crack is 'Alychne'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Francine Gilfedder. 01-08-1981. Direct Start 1 : Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth., 2008

19

Quite dicky on the initial face and protectionon the middle section is not the best. A good climb which would improve with traffic. Originally done in two pitches but much safer to do as one.

Start: Start at the small corner as for 'Deflated' etc.

FA: FRancine Gilfedder, Chris Baxter., 1981

20
14 Alychne Trad 40m

The Aychne is apparently a line of zero luminance (Talbett is an optometrist). However this climb isn't that bad but gets very little traffic. Moss and dirt aren't as much of a problem as it appears. Protection is a bit fiddly on the crux and not good on the first section of the traverse. Double ropes are very useful.

Start: Start 2 metres right of the short corner, just left of an easy, grotty crack.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Peter McKeand., 1968

21
14 Middle 8 Trad 10m

Above 'Toccata' there is a small bowl ringed by cliffs (The Cirque of the Climbables). On the right wall there is potential for some new routes. Start in the middle of the wall on the black rock, go up then slightly right into line and to top.

Start:

FA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins and Chris Frost., 2000