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Description:

Start at the left-leading diagonal crack.

Follow the diagonal left into the easy chimney on Cadenza Direct and up to the sloping ledge. Traverse right to a tricky exit.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie, 1965

  • First Free Ascent: Andrew Thomson, 1975

Location:  

Located in D Minor Pinnacle approx:
Long/Lat: 141.845178,-36.761236

Route Grade Citations

20 Community registered grade
19 * Arapiles, Selected Climbs
19 * * ACA Route Register
20 * A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 59%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

desperate good great fun enjoyable nice weird traverse balancy

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