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Description:

The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle.

This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall.

Can be done in a single pitch using twin ropes.

  1. (25m, 10) Follow the crack on fine holds until jugs lead up a steepening. Easy angled ground leads to a great belay spot under the overhangs.
  2. (10m, 14) Follow the crack through the overhangs.
Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone, Bruce Hocking climbed the route onbut the leader finished around left where Quaver now goes & the seconds to-roped the overhangs. Jim Newlands made what should be considered the first complete ascent., 27th Jan

Location:  

Located in D Minor Pinnacle approx:
Long/Lat: 141.845178,-36.761236

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

14 Principal
14 OZ Rock
14 *** RockGUIDE: Victoria
14 *** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
14 *** *** ACA Route Register
15 *** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 71%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid crux sustained tough overhung challenging tired hard fun cool nice fantastic good sweet amazing satisfying great lovely wicked classic superb awesome pleasant beautiful brilliant exciting enjoyable scary intimidating tricky dangerous committing steep feet rest interesting epic dodgy roof hands technical face easy bail bad jugs

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