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Description:© (Breezy)

Subtle line on left side of the 'D Major' Pipe. The third pitch, up the south-east face is mostly done as a climb in its own right.

Start: Front left side of 'D Major'

  1. 25m (18) crux. Climb subtle seams to ledge (fiddly small wires).

  2. 10m (5) Up chimney to ledge. The front of the thin buttress to the left is somewhat harder.

  3. 15m (16) Up greenish streak up middle of steep left wall. A bloody good pitch.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Keith Egerton, Heather Phillips & Kieran Loughran (p3 previously done by the Ottens who called it Rust Never Sleeps)., 1980

Location:  

Located in Organ Pipes approx:
Lat/Long: -36.760869,141.844740

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

17 R Community registered grade
16 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
18 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
18 R * * ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 58%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

good great fun nice tricky short face

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