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Description:© (kieranl)

A fairly good route. Most of the first pitch is spent bridging up 'Holpyp' which isn't bad and the top pitch is atmospheric.

Start: In the 'D Major' gully.

  1. 25m (-) Climb the gully until you can climb the seam on the left wall independently of the gully to cave belay.

  2. 25m (14) Mantle onto block up a little corner and then left to arete. Up steep wall to top. Finishing up the arete is more exciting at 16 but be careful with the rock.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Chris Baxter, Chris O'Brien. Murray Taylor & Keith Lockwood had previously climbed pitch 2 in, 1967

Location:  

Located in Organ Pipes approx:
Long/Lat: 141.844740,-36.760869

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

14 Community registered grade
14 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
14 * * ACA Route Register
14 * Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 63%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crank sustained tough hard good satisfying great beautiful fun cool nice tricky exposed committing face reachy interesting traverse

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