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Description:© (kieranl)

Good, varied climbing. Take some large hexes for the second pitch as the cams tend to walk their way open in a couple of spots.

Start: Start at the thin crack on the right wall of the gully.

  1. 15m (15) 'Excellent' finger layback crack on right wall of gully. Gear is excellent but pumped desperate leaders have run it out in the past and taken large falls.

  2. 35m (15) Up the widening crack and left across the sickle into 'Holpyp'. Up over the roof and carry on.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst., 1967


Located in Organ Pipes approx:
Long/Lat: 141.844740,-36.760869

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

15 Community registered grade
15 * A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
15 * * ACA Route Register
15 * Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 63%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux good great fun nice awesome scary slippery chimney interesting technical layback bridging traverse crack

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