Section navigation

Description:© (kieranl)

Very entertaining. Just be aware that at times you have to climb on large apparently detached blocks.

Start: Start 1 metre left of the big dead tree.

  1. 40m (9) Slabby thin crack on left side of buttress to ledge. Step right and pull through bulge then straight up to huge ledge.

  2. 40m (9) Behind are twin V cracks up the right side of the buttress. It is usual to move staright up from the ledge and then move across right and climb the right-hand crack but either crack is OK. An optional third pitch is to climb the blade of rock at the end of the second pitch.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Chris Davis & Ian Guild., 14th Jun

Location:  

Located in Organ Pipes approx:
Long/Lat: 141.844740,-36.760869

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

9 Community registered grade
9 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
9 ** RockGUIDE: Victoria
9 ** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
9 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 61%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

sweat solid crux sustained desperate hard pleasant fun cool nice fantastic good amazing great lovely wicked exciting enjoyable classic awesome scary tricky steep slippery easy interesting epic dodgy crack

Learn about creating circuits.