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Description:

Really nice climbing with an exciting blast up the finishing flake. Go up onto a terrace a few metres above ground level in the gully just right of the Didgeridoo Pipe. Follow the crack up past the left side of the overhang at 25 metres and on up the flake continuation. It is possible to do a harder finish (18) by traversing across the blank wall to the final flake system of F Sharp but there doesn't seem to be much point. This variant by Lockwood and Ed Neve 23/7/1977. Second pitch is complete rubbish so abseil/lower 30m from chains into gully 5m above ground.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter., 1974

Location:  

Located in Organ Pipes approx:
Lat/Long: -36.760869,141.844740

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

17 Community registered grade
16 * A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
17 * Arapiles, Selected Climbs
17 ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 66%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux hard fun cool nice fantastic good satisfying great lovely classic awesome pleasant super beautiful rad brilliant exciting enjoyable scary fall runout tricky committing steep rest interesting awkward dodgy technical layback short flake easy crap chossy cruisy crack

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