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Description

A good solution to this buttress spotted by Jen Woods, going up to and left through the overhang. The route ties together bits of three other climbs, Humouresque, Bass Clef and Low Note, into something that is much better than any of the others.

Start where you would scramble up to 'Dirge' but stay at ground level.

Go straight up to the base of a chimney (Bass Clef) and follow the arete between the chimney and the smooth face to the left. The climbing gets harder towards the overhang (small wires). Go diagonally left through roof, bolt at lip, up through middle of roof to easier climbing and 30m rap anchor.

Ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Route history

15 Apr 2007

First Ascent: Muki Woods/Ingvar Lidman, 15 Apr 2007

Location

Lat/Long: -36.76087, 141.84474

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

18 Community registered grade
18 * ACA Route Register
18 muki Woods

Seasonality

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M
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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 63% from 83 ratings

Tick types

Onsight
Flash
Red point
Pink point
Hang dog

Comment keywords

crux desperate tough super fun nice fantastic good great lovely enjoyable awesome fall runout committing steep feet rest arete contrived roof balancy easy bad jugs lip

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Activity

Check out what is happening on Jens roof (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.