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This is quite a good chimney and the rap anchor lets you avoid the cruddy finish.

Start: Below the next buttress right of the 'Didgeridoo' Pipe.

Scramble up 6 metres into the gully on the left of the buttress then move right and climb up into the chimney and follow it (originally climbed up the left edge of the chimney for a bit) past the roof on the left. Belay on left about 5 metres above the roof at chains. 30 metre abseil or continue up crud to the top.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Ian Speedie & Michael Stone, 1964


Located in Organ Pipes approx:
Long/Lat: 141.844740,-36.760869

Route Grade Citations

9 Community registered grade
10 ACA Route Register
9 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 28%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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