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Description:© (kieranl)

The late Dennis Kemp said that this was one of only two climbs that he had done at 'Arapiles' that he would not consider repeating.

Start: As for Jen's Roof.

  1. 30m (17) Up Jen's Roof for a few metres then up right on black slab to foot of a crack. Up this crack to a stance atop a short chimney. The abseil chain on 'Tremulo' should be accessible from here, not that we're suggesting running away or anything like that.

  2. 15m (-) Step left and climb front of buttress.

  3. 25m (-) Up crest of buttress finishing steeply past gnome.

  4. 5m (-) The crack behind. Rope drag could be a problem.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder., 1981

Location:  

Located in Organ Pipes approx:
Long/Lat: 141.844740,-36.760869

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

17 Community registered grade
17 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
17 ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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