Section navigation

Description:© (koala)

A stunning line on glorious water-washed rock. Protection is excellent despite and huge camming devices are not essential.

Take two ropes for the 50 metre abseil.

Start: Below the large smooth corner at the right end of the 'Organ Pipes'.

  1. 27m (15) Sustained climbing up the corner to hard moves past the little roof into a bottomless chimney. Up to a good ledge.

  2. 23m (13) The lovely square-cut chimney. Rap off or walk up the gully to the top.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Peter Jackson & Bob Bull, 1965

Location:  

Located in Organ Pipes approx:
Long/Lat: 141.844740,-36.760869

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

14 Community registered grade
14 ** RockGUIDE: Victoria
14 ** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
15 ** ** ACA Route Register
15 *** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 67%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid crux sustained tough tired sandbag difficult hard beautiful fun nice fantastic good sweet brilliant satisfying great lovely enjoyable classic awesome scary fall terrifying committing chimney polished interesting awkward epic face undercling jamming crack slippery feet balancy dihedral smooth bridging fist adventurous

Learn about creating circuits.