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Description

The small wall between Cobwebs Gully and Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Descent Notes

Rap chains at the top of the cliff. Or scramble off L.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
19 A Cappella Trad 15m

Take horizontal weakness opposite 'Falsetto', then up.

Start: Start at the far left hand end of baby buttress at the back of the gully.

FA: unknown

2
18 Falsetto Trad 15m

Climb the face left of 'Tendrils' to a short black flake and up.

Start: start left of 'Tendrils'

FA: Rod Young, 1980

3
18 Tendrils Trad 15m

Start: Climb up just left of the nose of 'Baby Buttress'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1980

4
21 Metronome Trad 15m

A hard start leads right to a juggy overhang, then head left and up.

Start: On the nose of 'Baby Buttress'

FA: Rod Young, 1980

5
17 Mexican Madness Trad 10m

Wall left of Scarlet Sage, via an orange overhang and Black flake.

FA: Lindorff

6
15 ScarIet Sage Trad 10m

Climbs the tricky crack in the middle of the wall past two bulges and a small cave.

Start: Start at tiny crack in middle of wall under a cave higher up.

FA: Lindorff, 1977

7
18 Wascal Trad 10m

Up the diagonal crack two meters right of Scarlet Sage, then left and up.

Start: Start two metres right of Scarlet Sage.

FA: Mike Law

8
22 Pwocol Hawum Trad 10m

Take the same starting diagonal crack as 'Wascal', but continue another two meters before going up.

Start: Start as for 'Wascal'.

FA: Mike Law

9
26 * Cry Baby Mixed 10m, 3

two bolts then small gear to top

FA: Muki Woods, 2006

10
25 Nati Dwed Trad 10m
11
21 Chunder at 30 Trad 10m

solo

FA: John Muir, 1985