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Description

A dark, narrow gully with some great routes.

Directly behind Pilot Error and R of Baby Buttress.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

This gully is located immediately behind 'Pilot Error', and just up right of 'Baby Buttress'.

© (bomber pro)

Descent Notes

Through a hole that brings you out on Pilot Error Terrace.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
20 Pain Club Trad 10m

Bouldery start then up face to the spectators' gallery.

Start: Start opposite 'Cobwebs' and about 2m downhill.

FA: Mike Law, solo, 1981

2
20 Boo Trad 15m

The grey wall.

Start: Start at the top of the gully on the R side, 30m L of 'Entangled'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Paul Hoskins, 1982

3

Up the seam, joining the last 3m of 'Entangled'.

Start: Start 8m L of 'Entangled'.

FA: Roland Foster, Dave Vass, 1989

4
24 * Entangled Mixed 25m, 1

Great second pitch for 'Astral Plane' or just approach from the hole leading to the ledge of 'Pilot Error'.

Start: Start atop 'Astral Plane'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Geoff Robertson, Mike Law, 1981

5

Left of Astral plane

6
24 ** Astral Plane Mixed 15m, 2

Bridge to gain short crack, bolt, then right and up, bolt and finish on a larger crack at top. Has had a rap anchor added?

Start: Start high in the gully on the right hand or main wall looking into the gully, at a stone step towards the back.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Ian Anger, 1981

7
28 *** Cobwebs Trad 20m

Follow the overhung seam up the middle of the wall with a piton, from the diagonal follow up final crack then finish as for 'Astral Plane'.

Start: On middle of right hand wall looking in.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

8

Crack and bolt up wall right of Cobwebs. Moves have been done at about 34.

9
18 ** Gilt Edged Trad 40m

Start: Start 10m R of 'Cobwebs', at the smooth crack in the right wall at the mouth of the gully.

  1. 30m (18) Up the crack to ledge then jam the slick crack and left through the roof to next ledge and then belay at ledge.

  2. 10m (18) 'Steep' jamming to roof then headwall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Philip Armstrong, Dave McLean, 1977

10
14 Scatterbrain Trad 45m

If he wasn't then, he certainly is by now!

Start: Start at the base of the 'Gilt Edged' buttress.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Philip Armstrong, Dave McLean, 1977