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Description

A dark, narrow gully with some great routes.

Directly behind Pilot Error and R of Baby Buttress.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pilot Error Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Some of the routes in the upper gully are most easily accessed by scrambling through the chimney/gap left of Mesa and dropping into the gully.

Descent notes

Through a hole that brings you out on Pilot Error Terrace.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 Pain Club Trad 10m

Bouldery start then up face to the spectators' gallery.

Start: Start opposite 'Cobwebs' and about 2m downhill.

FA: Mike Law & solo, 1981

2
14 Huldra Trad 15m

Takes the south-west arete of Tarzan pinnacle. From the gully, follow crackline up to grey bulging arete, which is climbed to a little summit. Belay and abseil off bolts at the top of Togrul Khan.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little & Norm Booth, 2015

3
20 Boo Trad 15m

The grey wall.

Start: Start at the top of the gully on the R side, 30m L of 'Entangled'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Paul Hoskins, 1982

4
16 Golden Delicious Trad 25m

Start right of Boo. Up wall to jugs. Continue up until wall blanks out, then take line of holds right across orange face to the arete. Up and right to Mesa chains.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth & Geoff Little, 2015

5
16 Shades Of Grey Trad 20m

Takes nice grey wall left of Boo. Chimney and bridge until jugs appear on the right (north) wall. Swing onto these, and direct up wall above.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little, Ray Lassman, Geoff Little & Norm Booth, 2015

6

Up the seam, joining the last 3m of 'Entangled'.

Start: Start 8m L of 'Entangled'.

FA: Roland Foster & Dave Vass, 1989

7
24 * Entangled Mixed 25m, 1

Great second pitch for 'Astral Plane' or just approach from the hole leading to the ledge of 'Pilot Error'.

Start: Start atop 'Astral Plane'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Geoff Robertson & Mike Law, 1981

8

Left of Astral plane

9
24 ** Astral Plane Mixed 15m, 2

Bridge to gain short crack, bolt, then right and up, bolt and finish on a larger crack at top. Has had a rap anchor added.

Start: Start high in the gully on the right hand or main wall looking into the gully, at a stone step towards the back.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Ian Anger, 1981

10
28 *** Cobwebs Trad 20m

Follow the overhung seam up the middle of the wall with a piton, from the diagonal follow up final crack then finish as for 'Astral Plane'.

Start: On middle of right hand wall looking in.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

11

Crack and bolt up wall right of Cobwebs. Moves have been done at about 34.

12
18 ** Gilt Edged Trad 40m, 2

Start: Start 10m R of 'Cobwebs', at the smooth crack in the right wall at the mouth of the gully.

  1. 30m (18) Up the crack to ledge then jam the slick crack and left through the roof to next ledge and then belay at ledge.

  2. 10m (18) 'Steep' jamming to roof then headwall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Philip Armstrong & Dave McLean, 1977

13
14 Scatterbrain Trad 45m

If he wasn't then, he certainly is by now!

Start: Start at the base of the 'Gilt Edged' buttress.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Philip Armstrong & Dave McLean, 1977

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