Photos
Help

Kryptonite Krack Area

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 78
7

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

The wall below Pilot Error Terrace.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pilot Error Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

The thin dogleg crack behind dead conifer.

Start: Start on the wall below 'Kryptonite Krack'.

FA: Chris Peisker, 1977

Short flake, orange wall, tend L then back R. Very poorly protected and not the best rock.

Start: Start 5m R of TS.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Dave Fearnley, 1982

The obvious bottomless crack. Originally put up by 'building a scaffolding' of rocks to stand on and reach the first jug. Went unrepeated until 2001 when Chris Jones onsighted it without the aided start and called it 'It's A Bird It's a Plane'. Now given 27 in the latest guide, however has been climbed by a simple dyno off the deck, reducing the grade to probably around 23.

Start: Start left of 'Kryptonite Krack'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead (22M1 with batman start), 1981

FFA: Chris Jones., 2001

Prance up the inverted trench, exit L.

Start: Start beneath the main diagonal crack through the steep bulge.

FA: Greg Child, 1978

Previously a long standing open project that was speculated for years prior to its first ascent. Literally a 5m (hard) boulder problem.

Start: Start between KK and AF.

FA: Stuart Wyithe & Dave Jones, 1995

Short thin crack with very tough start. L along break to exciting juggy finish.

Start: Start R of S.

FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1980

Finish direct.

Start: Start as for AF.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1979

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Wed 19 Apr
Check out what is happening in Kryptonite Krack Area.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文