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Description

The wall below Pilot Error Terrace.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

The thin dogleg crack behind dead conifer.

Start: Start on the wall below 'Kryptonite Krack'.

FA: Chris Peisker, 1977

2
20 So Help Me God Trad 10m

Short flake, orange wall, tend L then back R.

Start: Start 5m R of TS.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Dave Fearnley, 1982

3
22 DC 10 Trad 10m

The obvious bottomless crack. Originally put up by 'building a scaffolding' of rocks to stand on and reach the first jug. Went unrepeated until 2001 when Chris Jones onsighted it without the aided start and called it 'It's A Bird It's a Plane'. Now given 27 in the latest guide, however has been climbed by a simple dyno off the deck, reducing the grade to probably around 23.

Start: Start left of 'Kryptonite Krack'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead (22M1 with batman start), 1981

FFA: Chris Jones., 2001

4
23 Kryptonite Krack Trad 14m

Prance up the inverted trench, exit L.

Start: Start beneath the main diagonal crack through the steep bulge.

FA: Greg Child, 1978

5
28 * Superman Trad 15m

Previously a long standing open project that was speculated for years prior to its first ascent. Literally a 5m (hard) boulder problem.

Start: Start between KK and AF.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, Dave Jones, 1995

6
23 Auntie Florrie Trad 15m

Short thin crack with very tough start. L along break to exciting juggy finish.

Start: Start R of S.

FA: Rod Young, Chris Shepherd, 1980

7
23 Clark Kent Trad 10m

Finish direct.

Start: Start as for AF.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Marian, 1979