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Description

The terrace above Kryptonite Krack.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach

Go up the gully R of Kryptonite Krack, then L onto the terrace.

Descent Notes

Down the short chimney at the back.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
21 * Pilot Error Mixed 12m, 1

More than popular :)

Start: Start at far left hand end of ledge.

Pilot Error is graded as 20 in the Mentz & Tempest Arapiles Guide Book.

FA: Ian Anger, 1980

2
20 Cul-De-Sac Trad 10m

Start: Start R of PE.

FA: Nick Reeves, Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Martin, Ed Neve, Rod Young, 1979

3
13 Tarzan Trad 33m

Was 12 in previous guides.

Start: Start at next break through overhang R of C-D-S.

  1. 15m (13) The corner and easily up ramp.

  2. 18m (13) Traverse left between overhangs, then up on jugs to top.

FA: Clive Parker, Chris Baxter, 1968

4
19 * Togrul Khan Trad 28m

Overhanging corner, continue up ramp to pedestal and juggy wall on left.

Start: Start just right of 'Tarzan'.

FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham, 1977

5
22 Fixed Smile Trad 12m

Short variant to 'Togrul Khan'. Climb right arete, either from left or right past fixed sling (which was originally fencing wire!).

Start: Start just R of TK.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

6
22 Strombeante Mixed 9m, 2

Roof above 'Togrul Khan' past two BR. Inadvertently retrobolted after the FA. It's a bit necky getting to the first bolt. The direct start from the bottom of the wall has been done (Smith Hoskins, 4/5/96), as has the sit start (!!) (Hoskins, 14/5/96).

Start: Start above 'Togrul Khan'.

FA: Geoff Weigand, Peter Croft (both solo), 1986

7
10 Neta Trad 25m

Companion route to Mesa. Start in chimney left of that route and follow the arete. Exit R to rap chain above Mesa.

FA: Unkonwn, 2000

8
8 * Mesa Trad 33m

Originally graded 6 via the ordinary chimney, and not highly rated. Now that the loose bits are gone, the start has been straightened out up the face off the boulder, and a lower-off has been added, this is one of the best easy grade routes in this part of Araps, with a wide variety of climbing.

Start: Start off the top of the big boulder on the ledge.

FA: Graham Squire, Clive Parker, 1966

9
9 Butte Trad 28m

Completes the trilogy of nice easy climbs in this area. Think of it as an indirect start to 'Predator'. Step off the 'Mesa' boulder and head up right to the airy arete. Continue steeply over the right side of the roof and up juggy groove to ledge. The 'Mesa' rap anchor is just to the left.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Tim Lockwood, 2011

10
23 * Predator Trad 15m

Bouldery.

Start: Start off boulder underneath roof.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1977

11
12
21 * I Dunno Trad 20m

As for DP then traverse left along break. Upward and left to ledge. Lower off as for 'Daily Planet'.

Start: Start as for 'Daily Planet'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Jeff Lamb, Paul Daniels, Mark Moorhead, 1981

FA: LH start from back of cave (24) was soloed (!) by Mike Law, 1982

FA: Tough direct start (24) by Jon Muir, 1982

13
18 * Daily Planet Trad 20m

Superman is lurking!

Start: Start at the R end of the 'Pilot Error' Ledge, R of the caves.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Rod Young, 1980

FA: (RHV by Michael Woodrow, David Karla, Anthony Bishop), 1992

14
19 Daily Planet RHV Trad 20m

From the top of the curving flake step right to cracks and up.

FA: Michael Woodrow, David Karla and Anthony Bishop, 1992

15
22 R Perry White Trad 20m

The badly protected seam right of 'Daily Planet'.

Start: Start 2m R of 'Daily Planet'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

16
22 Strombeante Direct Trad 15m