Route Grade Style Popularity
1
Lex Luthor
Given a star by the last 2 guidebooks...which coincidentally were written by the two first ascentionists! It's ok but arguably not worth a star so we are "restoring the balance" here.
Start: Start at the base of the slim pillar at the back of the gully between 'Pilot Error ' Ledge and 'Lois Lane Wall '.
12m (19) Boulder up into the thin crack on the front face of the pillar.
18m (19) Climb the fingery face on the R wall of the gully above the ledge, beware slightly fragile rock. Stay L of the arete up higher, to reach loweroff. Rap 15m down R to Debutantes' anchor and rap again from there.
FA: Simon Mentz, Louise Shepherd, 1991
20
Trad 40m
2
Across the Andes by Frog
The small arete with a bolt.
Start: Start R of LL.
FA: Simon Mentz, Nick White, 1992
21
Mixed 20m
, 1
3
Eurylochus
Start: Start at the righthand chimney in the back of the gully.
15m (12) Up the chimney and under the chockstone.
15m (15) Take the curving flake on the right wall, then traverse right and up to rap anchor for 'Lex Luthor '.
FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham, 1977
14
Trad 33m
4
Excuse Me While I Belch
Bridge chimney for 8m then tricky face moves to join a wide L-facing flake/crack.
Start: Start as for E.
FA: Louise Shepherd, Nicky Sunderland, 1991
19
Trad 25m
5
Heimweh
More proof that the Ewbank system doesn't need suffixes, prefixes or any other sort of fixes. Just read the damn description!
Start: Start as for Debutantes.
FA: Wolfgang Gullich, 1985
26 R
Mixed 25m
, 2
6
Debutantes and Centipedes
Trend R to arete past 3 RBs. Crux to break then tend leftwards past good trad to loweroff.
Start: Start L of the blunt arete.
FA: Mike Law, Mike Law-Smith, 1981
25
Mixed 25m
, 3
7
Cambodia
The face with 2 bolts, involving two distinct boulder problems. Reachy start off two sidepulls then into slopers to a brief respite, then a cute micro crimp problem to the ledge. Easily up from there. Harder than some 26s.
Start: Start R of D&C.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1982
25
Mixed 25m
, 2
8
Lois Lane
Amazing how many people commandeer the blunt end on a bold route!
Start: Start R of C roughly in the middle of the wall.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Dignan, Matt Dunstan, Peter Lindorff, 1979
24 X
Trad 25m
9
Extension
The reachy face with a bolt.
Start: Start just R of LL.
FA: Mike Law, Mike Law-Smith, 1981
25
Mixed 25m
, 1
10
Reunion
From such beginnings at age 18, 10 years later he was in on Australia's first ascent of Everest. Quite nice anyway.
Start: Start a few m R of LL beneath the only significant crackline.
FA: Lincoln Hall, Norm Booth, 1974
17
Trad 25m
11
Calypso
Worth roping up for the traverse to the base, and for the traverse off L at the top to the rap anchor.
Start: Start 6m R of 'Reunion ', R of orange cave.
FA: Rod Young, Simon Kenny, 1977
15
Trad 20m
12
Beasley Street
23
Trad 25m
13
Contraction
Start up the ramp of BS, then the flake. Tricky up small corner on the L.
Start: Start as for B.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Robin Miller, 1982
22
Trad 20m
14
Beasley St
Boldly up face to bolt.
Start: Start just R of C.
FA: Guy Cotter, Steve Howden, 1981
23 R
Mixed 20m
, 1