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Description

The wall facing Pilot Error and Kryptonite Krack.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting October-December 2014 Cassandra Eurydice Raptors are nesting on these climbs. Please avoid the climbs until the young leave the nest (mid-December).

State Park

Approach

Reaching the routes R of Debutantes requires a scramble along an exposed terrace. One life has been lost on this traverse.

Descent Notes

Rap anchors above Debutantes and Lex Luthor. The rap from Lex Luthor is 30 metres.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
20 * Lex Luthor Trad 40m

Given a star by the last 2 guidebooks...which coincidentally were written by the two first ascentionists! It's ok but arguably not worth a star so we are "restoring the balance" here.

Start: Start at the base of the slim pillar at the back of the gully between 'Pilot Error' Ledge and 'Lois Lane Wall'.

  1. 12m (19) Boulder up into the thin crack on the front face of the pillar.

  2. 18m (19) Climb the fingery face on the R wall of the gully above the ledge, beware slightly fragile rock. Stay L of the arete up higher, to reach loweroff. Rap 15m down R to Debutantes' anchor and rap again from there.

FA: Simon Mentz, Louise Shepherd, 1991

2
21 Across the Andes by Frog Mixed 20m, 1

The small arete with a bolt.

Start: Start R of LL.

FA: Simon Mentz, Nick White, 1992

3
14 * Eurylochus Trad 33m

Start: Start at the righthand chimney in the back of the gully.

  1. 15m (12) Up the chimney and under the chockstone.

  2. 15m (15) Take the left-facing curving flake on the right wall, then traverse right and up to rap anchor for 'Lex Luthor'.

FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham, 1977

4
5

Bridge chimney for 8m then tricky face moves to join a wide L-facing flake/crack.

Start: Start as for E.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Nicky Sunderland, 1991

6
26 R * Heimweh Mixed 25m, 2

More proof that the Ewbank system doesn't need suffixes, prefixes or any other sort of fixes. Just read the damn description!

Start: Start as for Debutantes. Runout up L and traverse back R on layaways in horizontal weakness to join DaC. Finish up this.

FA: Wolfgang Gullich, 1985

7

Trend R to arete past 3 RBs. Crux to break then tend leftwards past good trad to loweroff.

Start: Start L of the blunt arete.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Law-Smith, 1981

8
25 Cambodia Mixed 25m, 2

The face with 2 bolts, involving two distinct boulder problems. Reachy start off two sidepulls then into slopers to a brief respite, then a cute micro crimp problem to the ledge. Easily up from there. Harder than some 26s.

Start: Start R of D&C.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1982

9
24 X * Lois Lane Trad 25m

Amazing how many people commandeer the blunt end on a bold route!

Start: Start R of C roughly in the middle of the wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Dignan, Matt Dunstan, Peter Lindorff, 1979

10
25 Extension Mixed 25m, 1

The reachy face with a bolt.

Start: Start just R of LL.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Law-Smith, 1981

11
17 * Reunion Trad 25m

From such beginnings at age 18, 10 years later he was in on Australia's first ascent of Everest. Quite nice anyway.

Start: Start a few m R of LL beneath the only significant crackline.

FA: Lincoln Hall, Norm Booth, 1974

12
15 * Calypso Trad 20m

Worth roping up for the traverse to the base, and for the traverse off L at the top to the rap anchor.

Start: Start 6m R of 'Reunion', R of orange cave.

FA: Rod Young, Simon Kenny, 1977

13
22 Contraction Trad 20m

Start up the ramp of BS, then the flake. Tricky up small corner on the L.

Start: Start as for B.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Robin Miller, 1982

14
23 R Beasley St / Beasley Street Mixed 20m, 1

Boldly up face to bolt.

Start: Start just R of C.

FA: Guy Cotter, Steve Howden, 1981