Site navigation

Grade search

Leaderboard

Instant PDF

KML KML

We don't know where this cliff is located. Do you? Locate cliff
Description:

The wall facing Pilot Error and Kryptonite Krack.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach:

Reaching the routes R of Debutantes requires a scramble along an exposed terrace. One life has been lost on this traverse.

Descent Notes:

Rap anchors above Debutantes and Lex Luthor. The rap from Lex Luthor is 30 metres.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Well established

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:
Quartzite

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 * Lex Luthor

Given a star by the last 2 guidebooks...which coincidentally were written by the two first ascentionists! It's ok but arguably not worth a star so we are "restoring the balance" here.

Start: Start at the base of the slim pillar at the back of the gully between 'Pilot Error' Ledge and 'Lois Lane Wall'.

  1. 12m (19) Boulder up into the thin crack on the front face of the pillar.

  2. 18m (19) Climb the fingery face on the R wall of the gully above the ledge, beware slightly fragile rock. Stay L of the arete up higher, to reach loweroff. Rap 15m down R to Debutantes' anchor and rap again from there.

FA: Simon Mentz, Louise Shepherd, 1991

20
Trad 40m
2 Across the Andes by Frog

The small arete with a bolt.

Start: Start R of LL.

FA: Simon Mentz, Nick White, 1992

21
Mixed 20m , 1
3 Eurylochus

Start: Start at the righthand chimney in the back of the gully.

  1. 15m (12) Up the chimney and under the chockstone.

  2. 15m (15) Take the curving flake on the right wall, then traverse right and up to rap anchor for 'Lex Luthor'.

FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham, 1977

14
Trad 33m
4 Excuse Me While I Belch

Bridge chimney for 8m then tricky face moves to join a wide L-facing flake/crack.

Start: Start as for E.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Nicky Sunderland, 1991

19
Trad 25m
5 * Heimweh

More proof that the Ewbank system doesn't need suffixes, prefixes or any other sort of fixes. Just read the damn description!

Start: Start as for Debutantes.

FA: Wolfgang Gullich, 1985

26 R
Mixed 25m , 2
6 *** Debutantes and Centipedes

Trend R to arete past 3 RBs. Crux to break then tend leftwards past good trad to loweroff.

Start: Start L of the blunt arete.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Law-Smith, 1981

25
Mixed 25m , 3
7 Cambodia

The face with 2 bolts, involving two distinct boulder problems. Reachy start off two sidepulls then into slopers to a brief respite, then a cute micro crimp problem to the ledge. Easily up from there. Harder than some 26s.

Start: Start R of D&C.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1982

25
Mixed 25m , 2
8 * Lois Lane

Amazing how many people commandeer the blunt end on a bold route!

Start: Start R of C roughly in the middle of the wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Dignan, Matt Dunstan, Peter Lindorff, 1979

24 X
Trad 25m
9 Extension

The reachy face with a bolt.

Start: Start just R of LL.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Law-Smith, 1981

25
Mixed 25m , 1
10 * Reunion

From such beginnings at age 18, 10 years later he was in on Australia's first ascent of Everest. Quite nice anyway.

Start: Start a few m R of LL beneath the only significant crackline.

FA: Lincoln Hall, Norm Booth, 1974

17
Trad 25m
11 * Calypso

Worth roping up for the traverse to the base, and for the traverse off L at the top to the rap anchor.

Start: Start 6m R of 'Reunion', R of orange cave.

FA: Rod Young, Simon Kenny, 1977

15
Trad 20m
12 Beasley Street
23
Trad 25m
13 Contraction

Start up the ramp of BS, then the flake. Tricky up small corner on the L.

Start: Start as for B.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Robin Miller, 1982

22
Trad 20m
14 Beasley St

Boldly up face to bolt.

Start: Start just R of C.

FA: Guy Cotter, Steve Howden, 1981

23 R
Mixed 20m , 1