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You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
9 Kermit Trad 20m

Nice line and rock but still a little shrubby. From the top of this it is a short scramble to the base of 'Mentor' so Kermit/Mentor/The Protege could provide an interesting outing.

Start: Start 30 m L of 'Wedding Tackle'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1995

2
16 Wedding Tackle Trad 20m

From left gain faint groove which slants up left

FA: Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter, 1986

3
16 Earthly Pleasures Trad 15m

Start at very toe of buttress, a few metres right of 'Wedding Tackle'. Climb to prow to finish direct.

FA: Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter, 1986

4
14 Lusts of the Flesh Trad 14m

Seam 1-2 metres right of 'Earthly Pleasures'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter, 1986

5
14 Carnal Intent Trad 15m

Crack through bulge just right of Lusts Of The Flesh.

FA: Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter, 1986

6

Start: Line R of 'Carnal Intent'.

FA: Loughran, Sleeman, 1996

7

Face between 'Identifying Bill Clinton' and Hillary's Dog

FA: Bert Levy (solo), 2000

8
13 Hillary's Dog Trad 10m

Start: Short line R of IBC.

FA: Loughran, Sleeman, 1996

9
20 Rumour Trad 10m

At left end of low cave, line leads to small roof. Up right to finishing groove.

FA: Keith Egerton, 2000

10
16 Scuttlebutt Trad 10m

Line 4 metres right of 'Rumour'. Pull on to white bloc; up and left

FA: Keith Egerton, 2000

11
20 Furphy Trad 20m

Easthetic thin crack 3 metres right of 'Scuttlebutt'.

FA: Keith Egerton, 2000

12
23 Inextricably Trad 12m

Steep crack 4 metres right of 'Furphy' and left of gully.

FA: Keith Egerton, 1984

13
12 Mentor Trad 36m

Maybe worthwhile as an approach for 'The Protege'.

FA: Ed Neve, Keith Lockwood, 1977