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Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
9 Kermit Trad 20m

Nice line and rock but still a little shrubby. From the top of this it is a short scramble to the base of 'Mentor' so Kermit/Mentor/The Protege could provide an interesting outing.

Start: Start 30 m L of 'Wedding Tackle'.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1995

16 Wedding Tackle Trad 20m

From left gain faint groove which slants up left

FA: Chris Baxter & Sue Baxter, 1986

16 Earthly Pleasures Trad 15m

Start at very toe of buttress, a few metres right of 'Wedding Tackle'. Climb to prow to finish direct.

FA: Chris Baxter & Sue Baxter, 1986

14 Lusts of the Flesh Trad 14m

Seam 1-2 metres right of 'Earthly Pleasures'.

FA: Chris Baxter & Sue Baxter, 1986

14 Carnal Intent Trad 15m

Crack through bulge just right of Lusts Of The Flesh.

FA: Chris Baxter & Sue Baxter, 1986


Start: Line R of 'Carnal Intent'.

FA: Loughran & Sleeman, 1996


Face between 'Identifying Bill Clinton' and Hillary's Dog

FA: Bert Levy (solo), 2000

13 Hillary's Dog Trad 10m

Start: Short line R of IBC.

FA: Loughran & Sleeman, 1996

20 Rumour Trad 10m

At left end of low cave, line leads to small roof. Up right to finishing groove.

FA: Keith Egerton, 2000

16 Scuttlebutt Trad 10m

Line 4 metres right of 'Rumour'. Pull on to white bloc; up and left

FA: Keith Egerton, 2000

20 Furphy Trad 20m

Aesthetic thin crack 3 metres right of 'Scuttlebutt'.

FA: Keith Egerton, 2000

23 Inextricably Trad 12m

Steep crack 4 metres right of 'Furphy' and left of gully.

FA: Keith Egerton, 1984

12 Mentor Trad 36m

Maybe worthwhile as an approach for 'The Protege'.

FA: Ed Neve & Keith Lockwood, 1977


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