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Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pinnacle Face / Tip Toe Ridge Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

In honour of the pioneers who first explored this territory 50 years ago. Named in honour of the golden anniversary, Aphrodite’s golden apples and The Slot’s nearby ‘orange bowl’. Takes the big wall centrally, to the left of Aphrodite and The Green Singer. Much better than appearances suggest,with an unusual variety of rock and climbing, and a robust top pitch that looks pretty daunting from the ground. Start as for The Green Singer.

  1. 35m Heave ho as for The Green Singer’s start, then trend leftwards up the wall to the obvious steepening after about 25m. Up this steeper section about 3m left of the deep crack (The Green Singer takes the steep wall to the right of this crack). Belay up left.

  2. 30m Up rib towards alcove backed by a smooth wall. Climb flake line on the right, then juggy rib past a deep hole in the rock. Veer left and bridge up prominent deep line. Numerous belays below prominent orange headwall, with fantastic views across to the Tiptoe pinnacle.

  3. 30m Up to headwall which is tackled on the left side of the orange rock. Push on with determination, until the summit overhang can be climbed centrally, at the break.

FA: Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 21 Dec 2013

Dedicated to John Shaw Neilson, Australia's finest lyric poet. From the top of this climb much of Neilson's country is spread out in clear view to the northwest. Fairly good climbing though the rock low on the second pitch is not the best. Worth a go if you're tired of Bard and all the Mount's other classics.

Start: Start L of 'Aphrodite' (itself not written up!).

  1. 45m (14) Climb the seams straight up the middle of the smooth wall left of 'Aphrodite'. Belay on a good ledge level with the start of the second pitch.

  2. 45m (12) Traverse into 'The Slot' and follow the corner line up the right wall, curving right past an orange overhang onto the front of the face. Continue up delightful smooth wall to belay about 3m below a triangular roof.

  3. 20m (12) Up vague prow just right of the triangular roof.

  4. 15m (12) Up a few moves then pull through overhang on front right of the summit block.

FA: Lockwood. (var)

FA: Keith & Tim, 2002

A slightly bold first pitch and an exhilirating finish.

Start: The face just left of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress is marked by the deep chasm of 'The Slot'. Start directly below this chasm.

  1. 40m (9) Go up to bushes at 5 metres, step left and climb face just left of the gulch, delicate at first, until it eases to a good ledge.

  2. 30m (5) Easy ground to below the orange overhangs.

  3. 25m (10) Up to and under the overhang and traverse out left. Climb the overhang on large holds in an exposed position.

FA: Simon Mentz & Glenn Tempest, 1998

An old-fashioned route. Start below the chasm just left of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' pinnacle, as for 'Aphrodite'.

  1. 72m (11) A tricky wall leads to the base of the chimney. Follow the chimney pas a narrow section and then on up vegetation-filled gully to belay in the"orange bowl"

  2. 28m (11) Fall across gap and climb crack in right wall past the chockstones to the top. An alternative is to carry on directly up the line, which is very narrow to start with.

FA: Peter Jackson, Doug Angus. Alternate finish : Ian Guild & Doug Hatt., 1964

Contrived. Start a bit right of 'The Slot' at foot of big chimney-corner formed by the main wall and the Tiptoe pinnacle. Up chimney to eventually join 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

FA: Darryl Carr & Bernie Lyons, 1967

Follow 'Tiptoe Corner' to crack left of Next Of Kin. Pull over bulge, heading left to break. Above small roof, climb straight up face.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Robin Miller, Louise Shepherd & Mike Broadbent, 1982

Follow the chimney of 'Tiptoe Corner' for 15 metres and step onto the face at the first of two diagonal cracks. Up right to below flakes, then straight up these, exiting right over roof.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1982

Follow 'Moonlighting' for 10 metres, traverse easily left to below smooth wall. Up wall via break and bulge to pod. Up pod and around roof.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Mike Broadbent, Chris Baxter, Robin Miller & Kim Carrigan, 1982

From start of 'Tiptoe Ridge', take left-leaning grey diagonal then step right to short right-facing orange corner on right arete of south face. There are some loose blocks.

FA: Recorded : Annette Halley, Jenni Martin, Dave Kitching & Marian Lester, 1992

A squeeze test at the top of Tiptoe Ridge. Lay down and shuffle through the horizontal crack.

Set by Austin Tredrea, 7 Jul 2016

FA: Tiarne Easley, 7 Jul 2016

An alpine-flavoured adventure that surely ranks as one of the finest routes of its grade in the world

Start: Left of the prominent ridge is a large terrace. Approach from below and to the left.

  1. 43m 3 step onto ridge and up

  2. 27m 5 up and over pinnacle

  3. 20m 4 up wall to big ledge on right

  4. 30m 5 head on up

FA: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock, 1963


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