Tiptoe Ridge Area All trad climbing9 routes in cliff
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Access issues inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
Ethic inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
A slightly bold first pitch and an exhilirating finish.
40m (9) Go up to bushes at 5 metres, step left and climb face just left of the gulch, delicate at first, until it eases to a good ledge.
30m (5) Easy ground to below the orange overhangs.
25m (10) Up to and under the overhang and traverse out left. Climb the overhang on large holds in an exposed position.
FA: Simon Mentz & Glenn Tempest, 1998
72m (11) A tricky wall leads to the base of the chimney. Follow the chimney pas a narrow section and then on up vegetation-filled gully to belay in the"orange bowl"
28m (11) Fall across gap and climb crack in right wall past the chockstones to the top. An alternative is to carry on directly up the line, which is very narrow to start with.
FA: Peter Jackson, Doug Angus. Alternate finish : Ian Guild & Doug Hatt., 1964
Follow the chimney of 'Tiptoe Corner' for 15 metres and step onto the face at the first of two diagonal cracks. Up right to below flakes, then straight up these, exiting right over roof.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1982
Follow 'Moonlighting' for 10 metres, traverse easily left to below smooth wall. Up wall via break and bulge to pod. Up pod and around roof.
FA: Louise Shepherd, Mike Broadbent, Chris Baxter, Robin Miller & Kim Carrigan, 1982
From start of 'Tiptoe Ridge', take left-leaning grey diagonal then step right to short right-facing orange corner on right arete of south face. There are some loose blocks.
FA: Recorded : Annette Halley, Jenni Martin, Dave Kitching & Marian Lester, 1992
An alpine-flavoured adventure that surely ranks as one of the finest routes of its grade in the world
FA: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock, 1963