Area Below Tiptoe Ridge All trad climbing19 routes in cliff
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Access issues inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
Ethic inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Reachy start to gain crack which maintains its interest.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Cathy Blamey, 1981
Start left of arch and move up and right to finish up grey streak to 'Bossy Mothers' anchor.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981
Thin rightward leading seam right of Just Out Of Habit.
FA: Robin Miller & Andrea Hayes, 1986
Scramble up right of Cruella De Ville and follow line just right of it. Move left uner overhang to easier finishing crack.
FA: Chris Baxter & Phil Swainson, 1986
Climb middle of very small south-facing wall of subsidiary pinnacle behind dead tree.
FA: Greg Pritchard & Nicky Sunderland, 1992
Crack, curving left to exit on orange, north-facing wall.
FA: Greg Pritchard & Phil Wilkins, 1992
Wall 1 metre right of Pearl Jam, right, up back left above Pearl Jam.
FA: Jon Bassindale & Greg Pritchard, 1992
"The climbers were so thick they were like ordinaty trees". Good to do if the other routes are busy though there could be a bottleneck on the last pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'.
Start: Start below big right-facing corner system.
30m (5) Up easy slab to rock rib just right of corner. Belay in gap between main face and small pinnacle.
10m (1) Wander across left to a stance closer to the corner where the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress meets the main face.
50m (6) 'Excellent' climbing up the corner to the notch behind the 'Tiptoe Ridge' pinnacle.
50m (4) Finish up the last 2 pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'.
FA: Greg Pritchard & punters from Melb. Uni, 1993
The first recorded route at 'Arapiles'.
Start: Start on the right side of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.
25m (4) Up the wall, passing the overhang on the left, then up to the dead tree.
40m (2) Up the easy face left of the scrubby gully to large ledge.
35m (5) Directly up face until about 8 metres below the Eagle's Eyrie (prominent cave). Traverse 8m metres left, passing under roof and up to ledge level with the Eagle's Eyrie. Climbing direct to the Eagle's Eyrie and then traversing left is grade 10
35m (4) Step left and up chimney right of 'Tiptoe Ridge', joining that route near the top.
FA: Doug Angus, Bob Craddock & Peter Jackson, 16th Nov