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Table of contents

1. Area Below Tiptoe Ridge 19 routes in Cliff

All Trad
Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Through the Tulips

Up slab to roof and through.

Start: Starts where slab is steepest just right of No Charlie.

FA: Smith, Hoskins, Martin Bride and Pritchard, 1995

18 Trad 10m
2 No Charlie, It Wasn't

Left edge of left wall of alcove.

4 Trad 10m
3 Beer and Trembling

Middle of left wall into shallow corner. Exit left

FA: Greg Pritxchard, Nicki Sunderland, 1992

8 Trad 10m
4 Falling Numbers

Bridge up groove at back of alcove, swing left onto large flake.

FA: Greg Pritchard, Phil Wilkins, 1993

8 Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 * Free Beer

"You can lead them to free beer but you can't make them climb." Greg might have more takers if the free beer was kept until after the climbing.

FA: Greg Pritchard, Phil Wilkins, 1993

18 Trad 30m
6 Chookfest 93

Little corner 1 metre right of 'Free Beer' to roof then up slab.

FA: Greg Pritchard, Jon Muir, Graeme Sigh, Annette Jone, 1993

12 Trad 30m
7 Tiptoe Ridge Direct Start

Obvious left diagonal to thin crack

8 Trad 30m
8 Pritchard The Almost Unstoppable New Route Machine

Start at 'Tiptoe Ridge' DS, but take short, wide right-leading diagonal through bulge.

FA: Jon Muir, Greg Pritchard, Graeme Singh, Annette Jones, 1993

18 Trad 30m
9 Father Figure

The short orange wall just left of Bossy Mothers eases quickly (stay R of the loose juggy line). Easier climbing then continues up the pleasant slabby grey wall above. At the top move over R to the anchors above Bossy Mothers.

FA: @gtempest,Karen Tempest, 2014

18 Trad 16m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 * Bossy Mothers

Reachy start to gain crack which maintains its interest.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Cathy Blamey, 1981

20 Mixed 15m, 1
11 Just Out of Habit

Start left of arch and move up and right to finish up grey streak to 'Bossy Mothers' anchor.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

23 Trad 20m
12 Cruella de Ville

Thin rightward leading seam right of Just Out Of Habit.

FA: Robin Miller, Andrea Hayes, 1986

20 Trad 15m
13 His Master's Vice

Scramble up right of Cruella De Ville and follow line just right of it. Move left uner overhang to easier finishing crack.

FA: Chris Baxter, Phil Swainson, 1986

15 Trad 15m
14 Llama Sutra

Climb middle of very small south-facing wall of subsidiary pinnacle behind dead tree.

FA: Greg Pritchard, Nicky Sunderland, 1992

16 Trad 8m
15 PearI Jam

Crack, curving left to exit on orange, north-facing wall.

FA: Greg Pritchard, Phil Wilkins, 1992

16 Trad 16m
16 Let Them Eat Ralph

Wall 1 metre right of Pearl Jam, right, up back left above Pearl Jam.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, 1992

19 Trad 15m
17 Ordinary Trees

"The climbers were so thick they were like ordinary trees". Good to do if the other routes are busy though there could be a bottleneck on the last pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

Start: Start below big right-facing corner system.

  1. 30m (5) Up easy slab to rock rib just right of corner. Belay in gap between main face and small pinnacle.

  2. 10m (1) Wander across left to a stance closer to the corner where the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress meets the main face.

  3. 50m (6) 'Excellent' climbing up the corner to the notch behind the 'Tiptoe Ridge' pinnacle.

  4. 50m (4) Finish up the last 2 pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

FA: Greg Pritchard and punters from Melb. Uni, 1993

6 Trad 150m 4
18 ** Introductory Route

The first recorded route at 'Arapiles'.

The original route wandered around a lot more than the route as described here. It is fairly safe to say that all of the rock between 'Siren' and 'Ordinary Trees' has been climbed.

Start: Start on the right side of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.

  1. 25m (4) Up the wall, passing the overhang on the left, then up to the dead tree.

  2. 40m (2) Up the easy face left of the scrubby gully to large ledge.

  3. 35m (5) Directly up face until about 8 metres below the Eagle's Eyrie (prominent cave). Traverse 8m metres left, passing under roof and up to ledge level with the Eagle's Eyrie. Climbing direct to the Eagle's Eyrie and then traversing left is grade 10

  4. 35m (4) Step left and up chimney right of 'Tiptoe Ridge', joining that route near the top.

FA: Doug Angus, Bob Craddock, Peter Jackson, 16th Nov

5 Trad 140m 4
19 Barren Waste 13 Trad 170m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
4 No Charlie, It Wasn't Trad 10m
5 ** Introductory Route Trad 140m 4
6 Ordinary Trees Trad 150m 4
8 Beer and Trembling Trad 10m
Falling Numbers Trad 20m
Tiptoe Ridge Direct Start Trad 30m
12 Chookfest 93 Trad 30m
13 Barren Waste Trad 170m
15 His Master's Vice Trad 15m
16 Llama Sutra Trad 8m
PearI Jam Trad 16m
18 Father Figure Trad 16m
* Free Beer Trad 30m
Pritchard The Almost Unstoppable New Route Machine Trad 30m
Through the Tulips Trad 10m
19 Let Them Eat Ralph Trad 15m
20 * Bossy Mothers Mixed 15m, 1
Cruella de Ville Trad 15m
23 Just Out of Habit Trad 20m