A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Through the Tulips
Up slab to roof and through.
Start: Starts where slab is steepest just right of No Charlie.
FA: Smith, Hoskins, Martin Bride and Pritchard, 1995
No Charlie, It Wasn't
Left edge of left wall of alcove.
Beer and Trembling
Middle of left wall into shallow corner. Exit left
FA: Greg Pritxchard, Nicki Sunderland, 1992
Bridge up groove at back of alcove, swing left onto large flake.
FA: Greg Pritchard, Phil Wilkins, 1993
"You can lead them to free beer but you can't make them climb." Greg might have more takers if the free beer was kept until after the climbing.
FA: Greg Pritchard, Phil Wilkins, 1993
Little corner 1 metre right of 'Free Beer' to roof then up slab.
FA: Greg Pritchard, Jon Muir, Graeme Sigh, Annette Jone, 1993
Tiptoe Ridge Direct Start
Obvious left diagonal to thin crack
Pritchard The Almost Unstoppable New Route Machine
Start at 'Tiptoe Ridge' DS, but take short, wide right-leading diagonal through bulge.
FA: Jon Muir, Greg Pritchard, Graeme Singh, Annette Jones, 1993
The short orange wall just left of Bossy Mothers eases quickly (stay R of the loose juggy line). Easier climbing then continues up the pleasant slabby grey wall above. At the top move over R to the anchors above Bossy Mothers.
FA: @gtempest,Karen Tempest, 2014
Reachy start to gain crack which maintains its interest.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Cathy Blamey, 1981
Just Out of Habit
Start left of arch and move up and right to finish up grey streak to 'Bossy Mothers' anchor.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981
Cruella de Ville
Thin rightward leading seam right of Just Out Of Habit.
FA: Robin Miller, Andrea Hayes, 1986
His Master's Vice
Scramble up right of Cruella De Ville and follow line just right of it. Move left uner overhang to easier finishing crack.
FA: Chris Baxter, Phil Swainson, 1986
Climb middle of very small south-facing wall of subsidiary pinnacle behind dead tree.
FA: Greg Pritchard, Nicky Sunderland, 1992
Crack, curving left to exit on orange, north-facing wall.
FA: Greg Pritchard, Phil Wilkins, 1992
Let Them Eat Ralph
Wall 1 metre right of Pearl Jam, right, up back left above Pearl Jam.
FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, 1992
"The climbers were so thick they were like ordinaty trees". Good to do if the other routes are busy though there could be a bottleneck on the last pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'.
Start: Start below big right-facing corner system.
FA: Greg Pritchard and punters from Melb. Uni, 1993
The first recorded route at 'Arapiles'.
Start: Start on the right side of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.
FA: Doug Angus, Bob Craddock, Peter Jackson, 16th Nov
|4||No Charlie, It Wasn't||10m|
|8||Beer and Trembling||10m|
|Tiptoe Ridge Direct Start||30m|
|15||His Master's Vice||15m|
|Pritchard The Almost Unstoppable New Route Machine||30m|
|Through the Tulips||10m|
|19||Let Them Eat Ralph||15m|
|Cruella de Ville||15m|
|23||Just Out of Habit||20m|