Topo #1218

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
5 * Free Beer

"You can lead them to free beer but you can't make them climb." Greg might have more takers if the free beer was kept until after the climbing.

18 Trad 30m Unlink route
16 Ordinary Trees

"The climbers were so thick they were like ordinaty trees". Good to do if the other routes are busy though there could be a bottleneck on the last pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'. Start: Start below big right-facing corner system. 1. 30m (5) Up easy slab to rock rib just right of corner. Belay in gap between main face and small pinnacle. 2. 10m (1) Wander across left to a stance closer to the corner where the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress meets the main face. 3. 50m (6) 'Excellent' climbing up the corner to the notch behind the 'Tiptoe Ridge' pinnacle. 4. 50m (4) Finish up the last 2 pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

6 Trad 150m Unlink route
17 ** Introductory Route

The first recorded route at 'Arapiles'. The original route wandered around a lot more than the route as described here. It is fairly safe to say that all of the rock between 'Siren' and 'Ordinary Trees' has been climbed. Start: Start on the right side of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch. 1. 25m (4) Up the wall, passing the overhang on the left, then up to the dead tree. 2. 40m (2) Up the easy face left of the scrubby gully to large ledge. 3. 35m (5) Directly up face until about 8 metres below the Eagle's Eyrie (prominent cave). Traverse 8m metres left, passing under roof and up to ledge level with the Eagle's Eyrie. Climbing direct to the Eagle's Eyrie and then traversing left is grade 10 4. 35m (4) Step left and up chimney right of 'Tiptoe Ridge', joining that route near the top.

5 Trad 140m Unlink route

Topo #1219

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
9 * Bossy Mothers

Reachy start to gain crack which maintains its interest.

20 Mixed 15m, 1 Unlink route
10 Just Out of Habit

Start left of arch and move up and right to finish up grey streak to 'Bossy Mothers' anchor.

23 Trad 20m Unlink route
11 Cruella de Ville

Thin rightward leading seam right of Just Out Of Habit.

20 Trad 15m Unlink route
16 Ordinary Trees

"The climbers were so thick they were like ordinaty trees". Good to do if the other routes are busy though there could be a bottleneck on the last pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'. Start: Start below big right-facing corner system. 1. 30m (5) Up easy slab to rock rib just right of corner. Belay in gap between main face and small pinnacle. 2. 10m (1) Wander across left to a stance closer to the corner where the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress meets the main face. 3. 50m (6) 'Excellent' climbing up the corner to the notch behind the 'Tiptoe Ridge' pinnacle. 4. 50m (4) Finish up the last 2 pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

6 Trad 150m Unlink route
17 ** Introductory Route

The first recorded route at 'Arapiles'. The original route wandered around a lot more than the route as described here. It is fairly safe to say that all of the rock between 'Siren' and 'Ordinary Trees' has been climbed. Start: Start on the right side of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch. 1. 25m (4) Up the wall, passing the overhang on the left, then up to the dead tree. 2. 40m (2) Up the easy face left of the scrubby gully to large ledge. 3. 35m (5) Directly up face until about 8 metres below the Eagle's Eyrie (prominent cave). Traverse 8m metres left, passing under roof and up to ledge level with the Eagle's Eyrie. Climbing direct to the Eagle's Eyrie and then traversing left is grade 10 4. 35m (4) Step left and up chimney right of 'Tiptoe Ridge', joining that route near the top.

5 Trad 140m Unlink route