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Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Well established

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:
Quartzite

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 *** Siren

A wonderful long classic, A remarkably well-conceived line, it culminates in a magnificent final corner

FA: Greg Lovejoy, Steve Craddock, 1963

8
Trad 150m
2 ** Siren Direct Finish

From Siren's fourth belay, step right around little roof and follow corner.

To finish things off properly, climb the small right-facing corner up and left from the belay.

FA: Ian Guild, Doug Hatt.., 1964

12
Trad 40m
3 Siren Left Wall

The left wall of the 'Siren' corner is very obvious but is not quite as good as it looks. The old bolts need replacing.

FA: Peter Jackson, Chris Baxter, 1965

15
Mixed 30m , 2
4 * Xena

Start: Start at the right edge of the Pinnacle face below right-leaning flake/crack, about 10 metres right of 'Siren'.

  1. 35m (8) Up to and over crack and up left line in wall to juggy ground. Continue up steep wall just left of arete to incut ledge looking out over 'Left Watchtower Face'.

  2. 22m (9) Climb up just left of arete to big ledge (Siren's second belay) and continue to next ledge on left a couple of metres further up.

  3. 23m (5) Easy ground to ledge below headwall.

  4. 30m (10) Step right, then steeply up on good holds. Up, tending slightly left.

FA: Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest,

10
Trad 110m
5 * Tales of Brave Ulysses

A good finishing pitch. Often done as a finish to 'Creon' but can be easily reached via the ledge system the crosses the face at 60 metres.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Keith Egerton, 1978

18
Trad 40m
6 Tauraroa

Follows the chimney-corner bounding the left edge of the left Watchtower face after starting up Hot Flap's first pitch.

FA: John Bennett and MUMC team. 1960s, 2000

9
Trad 120m
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