Section navigation

Description:© (jellyfish)

A fine old classic that has just about everything in it's two pitches. A great line with a fiery first pitch in an excellent position.

Start: On the E face of the 'Bard Buttress' there is a guano-stained recess about 25m off the ground, with a crack leading down R to the ground. Start under this crack.

  1. 33m (18) Up the crack to the niche past a very old BR, then head up and slightly R from the niche to a good ledge.

  2. 32m (17) A tricky steep move gains the long R-facing corner. Near it's top move R then up to the Bard Terrace.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Bob Bull, Peter Jackson & Ted Batty, 1965


Located in Bard Buttress approx:
Long/Lat: 141.845526,-36.757230

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

18 Community registered grade
18 *** *** ACA Route Register
18 *** RockGUIDE: Victoria
18 *** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
18 *** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 78%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid crux sustained tough tired powerful difficult hard fun cool nice fantastic good sweet amazing great lovely classic superb awesome pleasant super beautiful perfect brilliant exciting enjoyable scary intimidating tricky exposed rest polished interesting awkward roof face jamming crack steep slippery feet shady balancy easy mantle cruisy fiddly

Learn about creating circuits.

Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Eurydice (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.