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Description:© (jellyfish)

A fine old classic that has just about everything in its two pitches. A great line with a fiery first pitch in an excellent position.

Start: On the E face of the 'Bard Buttress' there's a guano-stained recess about 25m off the ground, with a crack leading down R to the ground. Start under this crack.

  1. 33m (18) Up the crack to the niche past a very old BR, then head up and slightly R from the niche to a good ledge.

  2. 32m (17) A tricky steep move gains the long R-facing corner. Near it's top move R then up to the Bard Terrace.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Bob Bull, Peter Jackson & Ted Batty, 18 Jul 1965


Located in Bard Buttress approx:
Lat/Long: -36.757230,141.845526

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

18 Community registered grade
18 RockGUIDE: Victoria
18 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
18 *** ACA Route Register
18 Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 80%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid crux sustained desperate tough pumped struggle tired powerful difficult hard fun cool nice fantastic good sweet amazing great lovely classic superb awesome magic pleasant super beautiful perfect brilliant exciting enjoyable scary intimidating fall tricky exposed committing rest polished interesting awkward roof hands technical short face jamming jugs crack steep slippery feet sunny reachy shady balancy weird easy bail mantle cruisy fiddly

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