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Description:© (willmonks)

Borderline whether it deserves the "serious" tag, but the crux is quite tricky, with spaced pro. Then again, you've got plenty of clean air up there, and it's still a great route.

Start: Start as for The Bard.

  1. 24m (9) Climb the initial slab of Bard and the corner cracks then belay at the start of the R-leading ramp.

  2. 20m (16) Pull up L from the ramp then traverse L above the bulge for 6m, then up the face a few metres L of the arete. Belay on the same ledge as The Bard's 2nd belay.

  3. 27m (17) Up the line on the R side of the main arete for 8m to a small roof. Now launch up left via steep exciting climbing to gain the next line, which gradually eases. Belay under the obvious roof.

  4. 12m (16) Step a bit R to get through the roofs without too much difficulty, to finish on the Bard Terrace.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: John Moore & Chris Dewhirst, 1967


Located in Bard Buttress approx:
Long/Lat: 141.845526,-36.757230

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

17 OZ Rock
17 Principal
17 ** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
17 R ** ** ACA Route Register
17 ** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
17 ** RockGUIDE: Victoria

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 71%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux difficult hard fun cool nice fantastic good sweet brilliant great exciting awesome scary fall tricky exposed crap dodgy traverse fiddly

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