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Description:

Start at the R end of the base of the buttress.

  1. 43m (12) Up the slab (some fiddly pro) to L facing corner. Up corner to ramp. Belay at top of ramp.

  2. 12m (12) Move around the arete, then up. Airy traverse L around the arete (grovel across or grab the undercling, lean back and find good holds above), and across the front face to belay on the nose.

  3. 20m (12, crux) Diagonally R across the face to a bottomless chimney. Belay at the top of the chimney.

  4. 15m (12) Up the steep juggy line to the Bard Terrace.

  5. 30m (12) Up the bottomless corner then R onto and up the wall.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Jim Newlands & Bruce Hocking, 1965

Location:  

Located in Bard Buttress approx:
Long/Lat: 141.845526,-36.757230

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

12 Principal
12 OZ Rock
12*** *** Arapiles, Selected Climbs - 2008 2nd ed
12 *** *** ACA Route Register
12 *** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
12 *** RockGUIDE: Victoria
12 *** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 85%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid crux sustained hard fun cool nice fantastic good amazing great lovely wicked classic superb awesome incredible super beautiful perfect brilliant exciting enjoyable scary intimidating tricky terrifying exposed committing chimney rest polished interesting awkward epic roof hands layback short flake face undercling jamming jugs slabby crack sunny easy cruisy dry traverse

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