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Description

The separate pinnacle on the camp ground side of the Pharos. Birdman of Alcatraz is the L leading diagonal crack.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Descent Notes

Scramble down the back side or rap from slings.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 Retsina Trad 12m

Appealing leftward leaning clean crack, then up to finish just left of 'Rush Hour'. A longer version has been done (and re-named "I'm Lichen It") by finishing left into corner, through bulge and on to summit block. Start: Start 2-3m L of RH.

FA: Andy Reynolds, Kieran Loughran (extended version added by John Lattanzio, Greg Pritchard)., 2006

2
15 Rush Hour Trad 15m

Straight up the burgundy water streak.

Start: Start beneath the low "col" on the L side of the Pinnacle.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1989

3
24 Action Kid Mixed 40m, 2

This line must climb quite poorly for it not to get any stars - because the wall looks fantastic!

Start: Start 3m L of SC, 20m R of RH.

FA: Craig Peacock, Lincoln Shepherd (Mike Law added the DS in), 1982

4
13 Social Comment Trad 37m

Not many routes this easy get you up a wall like this.

Start: Start below a L arching V-crack, 6m L of Birdman.

  1. 15m (13) V crack then reachy step L to ledge. Belay on the L.

  2. 22m (13) Up R to flake (hollow but avoidable), up L to ledge, R to balancey finish.

FA: Roger Murphy, Neil Philips, 1977

5
26 * Social Retard Mixed 35m, 4

Up 'Social Comment' to ledge then continue straight up (wires, 2 carrots). Span R into crux of 'Birdman Of Alcatraz' crux then bizarre moves right onto headwall (bolt), to stance in crack. Right to 2nd bolt and trickily up. If you don't go right at the top but go straight up to the chains, it's called 'Social Retard' Deviant, also 26.

Start: Start as for SC.

FA: KL/GP?, 2010

6
24 * Bent Mixed 40m, 1

Thin seam, cross Birdman to join Bad. Undercling L under roof to hanging corner, then L below bulge to finish up crack (BR).

Start: Start 2.5m L of Birdman.

FA: Mike Law, Brian Fish, 1982

7

Considered by many to be the best 23 at 'Arapiles'.

Start: Start where the dominant flake/line reaches the ground.

FFA: Kevin Lindorff

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth (aid), 1969

8
23 * Bad Trad 45m

Great first pitch. Pitch 2 seems a bit contrived and is usually not done.

Start: Start 1m R of Birdman.

  1. 25m (23) Thin crack, then undercling L around low roof. Up corner then step R to belay.

  2. 20m (22) Step L, over roof and up arete. Move L then over corner/bulge.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Tony Marian, Greg Child, 1978

9
18 *** Death Row Trad 45m

Layback corner then L into the "condemned cell", which takes some escaping! Great moves continue above, trending slightly L.

Start: Start at the L-facing corner at the R end of the main face.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger, 1967

10
18 Strange Fruit Trad 45m

Nice companion route to 'Death Row', but not as sustained.

Start: Start as for 'Death Row'.

FA: Loughran.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran, 2003

11
17 * Garden Gnome Trad 20m

Crack to ledge, then seam up grey face.

Start: Start 20m up R of DR.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kim Carrigan, 1979

12
21 Cloud Piercer Trad 16m

Groove, step L, straight over bulge.

Start: Start 2m R of SS, just R of native pine.

FA: Lindorff, Carrigan, 1979

13
22 Sky Scraper Trad 18m

Contrived.

Start: Start 3m R of GG.

FA: Carrigan, Lindorff, 1979

14
14 Buttons Trad 10m

Directly behind Garden Gnome some 10 metres around the corner. Short steep line to a series of scoops that look like buttons. Rap off Garden Gnome chains.

FA: Hywel Rowlands amd Michael Dowling, 2014

15
14 Black Box Trad 25m

4 metres right of Buttons. Tricky climbing up black stained wall into small sentry box. Out to right side of box and head up arête of pinnacle.

FA: Hywel Rowlands and Michael Dowling, 2014

16
18 Howling Trad 25m

5 metres right of Black Box. Climb middle of orange wall using little pockets and directly up middle of slabby pinnacle although this is run out (easy escape left of right).

FA: Hywel Rowlands and Michael Dowling, 2014

17
8 Water Wings Trad 25m

5 metres right of Howling. Start as for Laurel and Hardy directly under the rap chains. Thereafter take left leaning crease in rock and the easiest left line to the pinnacle summit.

FA: Hywel Rowlands and Josh Bassett, 2014

18
15 Laurel and Hardy Trad 20m

Slapstick.

FA: Bert Levy, Andrew Martin, 1998