Uncle Charlie Mostly trad climbing29 routes in cliff
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Home to some of the hardest routes at Araps, Uncle Charlie is the outcrop at the SE corner of the Pharos, recognizable for the twin chimneys.
Access issues inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
Scramble across the wedged boulder onto the Pharos. Or rap from the bolts above Nose Job.
Ethic inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
It is a great shame that the last bolt is a blatant retrobolt of Purler, with dozens of bomber trad options right beside it. Hopefully anyone who rebolts the route (given the now-droopy hangers) will remove the last bolt and not replace it. Although perhaps less clear-cut, it is also unfortunate that Ciela's first bolt is easily clipped from Purler & Pearls Before Swine and changes the nature of those routes. Please do not climb this route during nesting season (August to December). Start beneath the hanging nose.
FA: Uwe Eder & Axl Krapf, 1995
Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December).
Start: Start beneath the hanging nose of 'Ciela'.
18m (21) Slither up the surprisingly tricky slab to the R side of the nose. Undercling out around the roof and keep gunning up the crack above into the chimney. Belay here or 4m L at the DRB.
33m (17) From the DRB, go straight up the front of the nose, eventually escaping L around the top bulge.
FA: Kevin Lindorff (Chris Baxter & Andrew Bowman had previously done the 2nd pitch), 1974
The easiest way to sample the awesome front face of 'Uncle Charlie' - if you like grade 25 traversing, that is. If you wish to climb this during nesting season (August to December), please approach via Uncle Charlie's Right Nostril, not the Left.
Start: Start as for PBS.
15m (21) As for PBS, but belay as soon as you hit the chimney (just beside the peregrine's nest...)
FA: Kim Carrigan, Evelyn Lees & Louise Shepherd, 1981
Uncle Charlie no doubt wonders why everyone calls his right nostril the left! Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December).
Start: Start a few metres down R of PBS, underneath the L nostril.
FA: John Bennett & Russel Judge (aid). Greg Child (freed roof) 1976. Kim Carrigan, 1st Nov
The guides say it's only 15m, but the easier top section makes it almost double that. Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December).
Start: Start up one of the previous routes to gain the base of the L chimney.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Tony Dignan, 1984
Start: Start 2m L of UCRN.
30m (27) The glassy slab becomes a R-leaning flake, which turns into a stomach-churning overhung offwidth, and then steep discontinuous pods, and finally into the R chimney.
20m (23) Step R under the bulge and up the bulging hand crack.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff (alt), 1979
Old fashioned battle. According to Simey's guide the aid was eliminated before it had even been aided...visionary!
Start: Start beneath the R crack underneath the R chimney.
FA: Kim Carrigan (direct)
FA: Chris Dewhirst & John Moore (aid), 29th Nov
FA: Chris Peisker(deviating into the Picking Winners trench for a few metres), 1978
Deterred many very strong suitors for many years and finally fell to the Kiwi Wizz kid
FA: Wiz Fineron, 2012
The prime line hereabouts.
Start: Start as for 'India'.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984
Kim cops heaps of crap but by gees he put up some hard classics years ahead of the pack.
Start: Start on the R side of the awe inspiring blank bulging orange face.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1982
Not his finest addition.
Start: Start as for 'Nose Job'.
FA: Wolfgang Gullich
In typical Lindorff style this is a plum line, but undergraded and underprotected. Gee it looks good though.
Start: Start 2m R of 'India'.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1978
A route on this pinnacle for the mere mortal. A fun climb!
FA: Mike Law, 1976
Looks bloody desperate.
Steep deep wide crack. Thrutch away to your hearts content.
Start: Start about 20m up the gully R from CoC.
FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967
The pencil thin crack (originally with a manky fixed wire, now with a bolt). After the crack sneak out left and finish up Virginia.
One bolt plus trad. Start: 5m L of Spasm
FA: Chris Shepherd & Michael Collie, 1982
Start 5m Left of Spasm Climb nearly all of Yes Please past it's bolt but instead of escaping left under the roof, do a move right and continue up the wall past two more bolts. There's a stance left of the last bolt, from here traverse right along the horizontal break that leads to the last headwall of Spasm. Finish up this (sideways #7 rock in pocket) to glory.
3 bolts plus a handful of wires (or small-med cams)
FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2014
Unless they've joined into one continuous white streak by now, the white patches and ticks will show you the way. Soft at the grade once you have the crux figured, and almost certainly a bit easier for the taller types
Take a medium-to-large sized wire (e.g. #6 or #7 WC rock) for the top which inconveniently reduces the size of a key hold in a non-grade-alteringly way. A couple of RP's in a seam at the start should prevent your belayer following you off the ledge in the event of falling getting to the first bolt. Otherwise, stick clip the first bolt or just don't fall.
Start: Start off the wedged boulder near the highpoint of the chasm.
FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983
Four bolts on the wall right of spasm. Don't bridge the at the start but do bridge the finish.
FA: Gordon Poultney & Rob Oliver, 2007
Stem up chimney with feet on one side and hands on the other, to a jug. Then climb the steep line with 2 pitons.
Start: Start just inside the SE end of the Spasm Chasm.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981
Old Gordon Poultney project put out of it's misery.
Surely this should just be chopped.
FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002