Site navigation

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Description

Home to some of the hardest routes at Araps, Uncle Charlie is the outcrop at the SE corner of the Pharos, recognizable for the twin chimneys.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Descent notes

Scramble across the wedged boulder onto the Pharos. Or rap from the bolts above Nose Job.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

An amazing effort by a relatively unsung local.

This completely natural (read, "not chipped or glued" like its famous sibling) has some a genuinely difficult (as if the grade weren't required to confirm it already) slabby traversing early on before pulling into Punks, climbing it for a few metres before escaping out R to the arete.

Start: Start beneath the R-leading arch, a few metres up L of PitG.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994

Joins the hardest bits of both routes and is supposedly a grade harder than each of them. Quite probably still un-repeated.

Start: Start as for Pretty in Punk, finish as for Punks in the Gym

FA: David Jones

The master of combinations and permutations digs up another classic.

Start: Start as for 'Punks in the Gym', finish as for 'Pretty in Punk'.

FA: Nathan Hoette

The easiest line up a great, albeit only mildly overhanging wall. Probably the world's first 8b+ / 5.14a and ahead of its time in Australian terms - it took nearly ten years before an Aussie (Stuart Wiythe) repeated it !

Despite masses of beta available on the internet, it still sees very few quick ascents, hasn't been onsighted and is still regarded as somewhat of a testpiece with a redpoint crux far above the technical crux and accounting for many an accomplished climber.

Many argue the route is easier than when Wolfgang and Stefan Glowacz did it in the mid 80's due to the increased size of the crux glue hold (the notorious birdbath). For a while considered "only" 31, it seems to have re-consolidated at 32.

Start: Start as for 'Punks in the Gunks'. At its traverse, instead go up, L and up, up, up to the top.

FA: Wolfgang Güllich; Wolfgang Gullich, 1985

Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December).

Start: Start L of a L leaning diagonal.

FA: Chris & Lincoln Shepherd, 1982

Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December).

Start: Start at the bottom R side of the Punks wall.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Tony Dignan, 1984

It is a great shame that the last bolt is a blatant retrobolt of Purler, with dozens of bomber trad options right beside it. Hopefully anyone who rebolts the route (given the now-droopy hangers) will remove the last bolt and not replace it. Although perhaps less clear-cut, it is also unfortunate that Ciela's first bolt is easily clipped from Purler & Pearls Before Swine and changes the nature of those routes. Please do not climb this route during nesting season (August to December). Start beneath the hanging nose.

FA: Uwe Eder & Axl Krapf, 1995

Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December). Start as for 'Pearls Before Swine'. This should be a trad route but unfortunately has been retrobolted by the first and last bolts of Ciela.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979

Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December).

Start: Start beneath the hanging nose of 'Ciela'.

  1. 18m (21) Slither up the surprisingly tricky slab to the R side of the nose. Undercling out around the roof and keep gunning up the crack above into the chimney. Belay here or 4m L at the DRB.

  2. 33m (17) From the DRB, go straight up the front of the nose, eventually escaping L around the top bulge.

FA: Kevin Lindorff (Chris Baxter & Andrew Bowman had previously done the 2nd pitch), 1974

The easiest way to sample the awesome front face of 'Uncle Charlie' - if you like grade 25 traversing, that is. If you wish to climb this during nesting season (August to December), please approach via Uncle Charlie's Right Nostril, not the Left.

Start: Start as for PBS.

  1. 15m (21) As for PBS, but belay as soon as you hit the chimney (just beside the peregrine's nest...)

  2. 30m (25) R, and up short sickle/corner to gain the R nostril. R to piton, then hard undercling R to rest. Continue traversing R into 'India', past a bonus bolt in 'Ethiopia'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Evelyn Lees & Louise Shepherd, 1981

Uncle Charlie no doubt wonders why everyone calls his right nostril the left! Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December).

Start: Start a few metres down R of PBS, underneath the L nostril.

FA: John Bennett & Russel Judge (aid). Greg Child (freed roof) 1976. Kim Carrigan, 1964

The guides say it's only 15m, but the easier top section makes it almost double that. Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December).

Start: Start up one of the previous routes to gain the base of the L chimney.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Tony Dignan, 1984

Start: Start 2m L of UCRN.

  1. 30m (27) The glassy slab becomes a R-leaning flake, which turns into a stomach-churning overhung offwidth, and then steep discontinuous pods, and finally into the R chimney.

  2. 20m (23) Step R under the bulge and up the bulging hand crack.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff (alt), 1979

Old fashioned battle. According to Simey's guide the aid was eliminated before it had even been aided...visionary!

Start: Start beneath the R crack underneath the R chimney.

FA: Kim Carrigan (direct)

FA: Chris Dewhirst & John Moore (aid), 1965

FA: Chris Peisker(deviating into the Picking Winners trench for a few metres), 1978

Deterred many very strong suitors for many years and finally fell to the Kiwi Wizz kid

FA: Wiz Fineron, 2012

The prime line hereabouts.

Start: Start as for 'India'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Kim cops heaps of crap but by gees he put up some hard classics years ahead of the pack.

Start: Start on the R side of the awe inspiring blank bulging orange face.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1982

Not his finest addition.

Start: Start as for 'Nose Job'.

FA: Wolfgang Gullich

In typical Lindorff style this is a plum line, but undergraded and underprotected. Gee it looks good though.

Start: Start 2m R of 'India'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1978

A route on this pinnacle for the mere mortal. A fun climb!

FA: Mike Law, 1976

Straight up past a bolt instead of traversing L

Was a bolted sport route ....looks to be only one bolt now

Looks bloody desperate.

Steep deep wide crack. Overhangs more than most 18s! Can be bridged without much thrutching, but some large gear can be handy. Stays dry in light rain too.

Start: Start about 20m up the gully R from CoC.

FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967

The pencil thin crack (originally with a manky fixed wire, now with a bolt). After the crack sneak out left and finish up Virginia.

One bolt plus trad. Start: 5m L of Spasm

FA: Chris Shepherd & Michael Collie, 1982

Start 5m Left of Spasm Climb nearly all of Yes Please past it's bolt but instead of escaping left under the roof, do a move right and continue up the wall past two more bolts. There's a stance left of the last bolt, from here traverse right along the horizontal break that leads to the last headwall of Spasm. Finish up this (sideways #7 rock in pocket) to glory. Offers superb sustained climbing if head right from last bolt to undercling on spasm and past both it's dynos.

3 bolts plus a handful of wires (or small-med cams)

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2014

Unless they've joined into one continuous white streak by now, the white patches and ticks will show you the way. Soft at the grade once you have the crux figured, and almost certainly a bit easier for the taller types

Take a medium-to-large sized wire (e.g. #6 or #7 WC rock) for the top which inconveniently reduces the size of a key hold in a non-grade-alteringly way. A couple of RP's in a seam at the start should prevent your belayer following you off the ledge in the event of falling getting to the first bolt. Otherwise, stick clip the first bolt or just don't fall.

Start: Start off the wedged boulder near the highpoint of the chasm.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983

Four bolts on the wall right of spasm. Don't bridge the at the start but do bridge the finish.

FA: Gordon Poultney & Rob Oliver, 2007

Stem up chimney with feet on one side and hands on the other, to a jug. Then climb the steep line with two new bolts as of 2015.

Start: Start just inside the SE end of the Spasm Chasm.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

Climb directly into 'Escape' without bridging.

FA: Mike Weeks, 1998

Up The Great Escape to half height, then R and up.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002

Climb the chasm right of Spasm by following a finger crack on the left wall which leads up and right through a squeeze. Top out on the road side of Uncle Charlie's via some juggy wide chimneying. Walk off over the chockstone to the Pharos. Protectable, but a pretty tight fit with a harness.

FA: Unknown

Activity

Check out what is happening in Uncle Charlie.