Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Description

Home to some of the hardest routes at Araps, Uncle Charlie is the outcrop at the SE corner of the Pharos, recognizable for the twin chimneys.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Descent Notes

Scramble across the wedged boulder onto the Pharos. Or rap from the bolts above Nose Job.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
32 * Pretty In Punk Mixed 35m, 4

An amazing effort by a relatively unsung local. And, if you believe previous guides, it can also lay claim to being the shortest 35m route in the world!

Start: Start beneath the R-leading arch, a few metres up L of PitG.

FA: Stuart Wyithe

2
33 * Punks Addiction Mixed 35m, 9

Joins the hardest bits of both routes and is supposedly a grade harder than each of them.

Start: Start as for Pretty in Punk.

FA: David Jones

3
30 ** Punky Brewster Trad 25m

The master of combinations and permutations digs up another classic.

Start: Start as for 'Punks in the Gym'.

FA: Nathan Hoette

4
32 *** Punks in the Gym Mixed 35m, 8

The world's first grade 32 (5.14A)

FA: Wolfgang Güllich; Wolfgang Gullich

5
25 ** Punks in the Gunks Mixed 20m, 2

Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December).

Start: Start L of a L leaning diagonal.

FA: Chris & Lincoln Shepherd, 1982

6
25 Punks at the Piles Mixed 20m, 2

Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December).

Start: Start at the bottom R side of the Punks wall.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Tony Dignan, 1984

7
28 * Ciela Sport 20m

It is a great shame that the last bolt is a blatant retrobolt of Purler, with dozens of bomber trad options right beside it. Hopefully anyone who rebolts the route (given the now-droopy hangers) will remove the last bolt and not replace it. Although perhaps less clear-cut, it is also unfortunate that Ciela's first bolt is easily clipped from Purler & Pearls Before Swine and changes the nature of those routes. Please do not climb this route during nesting season (August to December). Start beneath the hanging nose.

FA: Uwe Eder, Axl Krapf, 1995

8
22 * Purler Mixed 20m, 2

Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December). Start as for 'Pearls Before Swine'. This should be a trad route but unfortunately has been retrobolted by the first and last bolts of Ciela.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1979

9

Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December).

Start: Start beneath the hanging nose of 'Ciela'.

  1. 18m (21) Slither up the surprisingly tricky slab to the R side of the nose. Undercling out around the roof and keep gunning up the crack above into the chimney. Belay here or 4m L at the DRB.

  2. 33m (17) From the DRB, go straight up the front of the nose, eventually escaping L around the top bulge.

FA: Kevin Lindorff (Chris Baxter & Andrew Bowman had previously done the 2nd pitch), 1974

10
25 * Growing Pains Mixed 45m, 1

The easiest way to sample the awesome front face of 'Uncle Charlie' - if you like grade 25 traversing, that is. If you wish to climb this during nesting season (August to December), please approach via Uncle Charlie's Right Nostril, not the Left.

Start: Start as for PBS.

  1. 15m (21) As for PBS, but belay as soon as you hit the chimney (just beside the peregrine's nest...)

  2. 30m (25) R, and up short sickle/corner to gain the R nostril. R to piton, then hard undercling R to rest. Continue traversing R into 'India', past a bonus bolt in 'Ethiopia'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Evelyn Lees, Louise Shepherd, 1981

11

Uncle Charlie no doubt wonders why everyone calls his right nostril the left! Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December).

Start: Start a few metres down R of PBS, underneath the L nostril.

FA: John Bennett, Russel Judge (aid). Greg Child (freed roof) 1976. Kim Carrigan, 1st Nov

12
24 Bridge Mixed 15m, 1

The guides say it's only 15m, but the easier top section makes it almost double that. Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December).

Start: Start up one of the previous routes to gain the base of the L chimney.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Tony Dignan, 1984

13
27 Picking Winners Trad 50m

Start: Start 2m L of UCRN.

  1. 30m (27) The glassy slab becomes a R-leaning flake, which turns into a stomach-churning overhung offwidth, and then steep discontinuous pods, and finally into the R chimney.

  2. 20m (23) Step R under the bulge and up the bulging hand crack.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Kevin Lindorff (alt), 1979

14

Old fashioned battle. According to Simey's guide the aid was eliminated before it had even been aided...visionary!

Start: Start beneath the R crack underneath the R chimney.

FA: Kim Carrigan (direct)

FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore (aid), 1965

FA: Chris Peisker(deviating into the Picking Winners trench for a few metres), 1978

15
33 * Somalia Sport

Deterred many very strong suitors for many years and finally fell to the Kiwi Wizz kid

FA: Wiz Fineron, 2012

16
30 ** Ethiopia Mixed 30m, 3

The prime line hereabouts.

Start: Start as for 'India'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

17
28 *** India Trad 30m

Kim cops heaps of crap but by gees he put up some hard classics years ahead of the pack.

Start: Start on the R side of the awe inspiring blank bulging orange face.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Kevin Lindorff, 1982

18
30 Wisdom of Body Trad 15m

Not his finest addition.

Start: Start as for 'Nose Job'.

FA: Wolfgang Gullich

19
24 ** Nose Job Trad 30m

In typical Lindorff style this is a plum line, but undergraded and underprotected. Gee it looks good though.

Start: Start 2m R of 'India'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kim Carrigan, 1978

20
16 ** Coming on Chris Trad 25m

A route on this pinnacle for the mere mortal. A fun climb!

FA: Mike Law, 1976

21
18 * Virginia Trad 33m

Steep deep wide crack. Thrutch away to your hearts content.

Start: Start about 20m up the gully R from CoC.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst, 1967

22
25 Yes Please Trad 30m

Up the face and, once you're all out of crimps, you get the joy of finishing up 'Virginia'.

Start: Start just R of 'Virginia'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Michael Collie, 1982

23
25 *** Spasm in a Chasm Sport 25m, 3

Unless they've joined into one continuous white streak by now, the white patches and ticks will show you the way. Take a medium-to-large sized wire for the top.

Start: Start off the wedged boulder near the highpoint of the chasm.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983

24
26 * Escape Trad 25m

Stem up chimney with feet on one side and hands on the other, to a jug. Then climb the steep line with 2 pitons.

Start: Start just inside the SE end of the Spasm Chasm.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

25
28 ** The Great Escape Trad 20m

Climb directly into 'Escape' without bridging.

FA: Mike Weeks, 1998

26
29 *** Break & Enter Trad 20m

Old Gordon Poultney project put out of it's misery.

FA: Nathan Hoette

27

Surely this should just be chopped.