Routes in Uncle Charlie

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Showing all 32 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
32 Pretty In Punk

An amazing effort by a relatively unsung local.

This completely natural (read, "not chipped or glued" like its famous sibling) has some a genuinely difficult (as if the grade weren't required to confirm it already) slabby traversing early on before pulling into Punks, climbing it for a few metres before escaping out R to the arete.

Start: Start beneath the R-leading arch, a few metres up L of PitG.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994

Mixed 20m, 4
33 Punks Addiction

Joins the hardest bits of both routes and is supposedly a grade harder than each of them. Quite probably still un-repeated.

Start: Start as for Pretty in Punk, finish as for Punks in the Gym

FA: David Jones

Mixed 35m, 9
30 Punky Brewster

The master of combinations and permutations digs up another classic.

Start: Start as for 'Punks in the Gym', finish as for 'Pretty in Punk'.

FA: Nathan Hoette

Trad 25m
32 Punks in the Gym

The easiest line up a great, albeit only mildly overhanging wall. Probably the world's first 8b+ / 5.14a and ahead of its time in Australian terms - it took nearly ten years before an Aussie (Stuart Wiythe) repeated it !

Despite masses of beta available on the internet, it still sees very few quick ascents, hasn't been onsighted and is still regarded as somewhat of a testpiece with a redpoint crux far above the technical crux and accounting for many an accomplished climber.

Many argue the route is easier than when Wolfgang and Stefan Glowacz did it in the mid 80's due to the increased size of the crux glue hold (the notorious birdbath). For a while considered "only" 31, it seems to have re-consolidated at 32.

Start: Start as for 'Punks in the Gunks'. At its traverse, instead go up, L and up, up, up to the top.

Mixed 35m, 8
25 Punks in the Gunks

Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December).

Start: Start L of a L leaning diagonal.

FA: Chris & Lincoln Shepherd, 1982

Mixed 20m, 2
25 Punks at the Piles

Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December).

Start: Start at the bottom R side of the Punks wall.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Tony Dignan, 1984

Mixed 20m, 2
28 Ciela

It is a great shame that the last bolt is a blatant retrobolt of Purler, with dozens of bomber trad options right beside it. Hopefully anyone who rebolts the route (given the now-droopy hangers) will remove the last bolt and not replace it. Although perhaps less clear-cut, it is also unfortunate that Ciela's first bolt is easily clipped from Purler & Pearls Before Swine and changes the nature of those routes. Please do not climb this route during nesting season (August to December). Start beneath the hanging nose.

FA: Uwe Eder & Axl Krapf, 1995

Sport 20m
22 Purler

Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December). Start as for 'Pearls Before Swine'. This should be a trad route but unfortunately has been retrobolted by the first and last bolts of Ciela.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979

Mixed 20m, 2
20 Pearls Before Swine

Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December).

Start: Start beneath the hanging nose of 'Ciela'.

  1. 18m (21) Slither up the surprisingly tricky slab to the R side of the nose. Undercling out around the roof and keep gunning up the crack above into the chimney. Belay here or 4m L at the DRB.

  2. 33m (17) From the DRB, go straight up the front of the nose, eventually escaping L around the top bulge.

FA: Kevin Lindorff (Chris Baxter & Andrew Bowman had previously done the 2nd pitch), 1974

Trad 48m, 2
25 Growing Pains

The easiest way to sample the awesome front face of 'Uncle Charlie' - if you like grade 25 traversing, that is. If you wish to climb this during nesting season (August to December), please approach via Uncle Charlie's Right Nostril, not the Left.

Start: Start as for PBS.

  1. 15m (21) As for PBS, but belay as soon as you hit the chimney (just beside the peregrine's nest...)

  2. 30m (25) R, and up short sickle/corner to gain the R nostril. R to piton, then hard undercling R to rest. Continue traversing R into 'India', past a bonus bolt in 'Ethiopia'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Evelyn Lees & Louise Shepherd, 1981

Mixed 45m, 2, 1
23 Uncle Charlie's Left Nostril

Uncle Charlie no doubt wonders why everyone calls his right nostril the left! Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December).

Start: Start a few metres down R of PBS, underneath the L nostril.

FA: John Bennett & Russel Judge (aid). Greg Child (freed roof) 1976. Kim Carrigan, 1964

Trad 45m
24 Bridge

The guides say it's only 15m, but the easier top section makes it almost double that. Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December).

Start: Start up one of the previous routes to gain the base of the L chimney.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Tony Dignan, 1984

Mixed 15m, 1
27 Picking Winners

Start: Start 2m L of UCRN.

  1. 30m (27) The glassy slab becomes a R-leaning flake, which turns into a stomach-churning overhung offwidth, and then steep discontinuous pods, and finally into the R chimney.

  2. 20m (23) Step R under the bulge and up the bulging hand crack.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff (alt), 1979

Trad 50m, 2
25 Uncle Charlie's Right Nostril

Old fashioned battle. According to Simey's guide the aid was eliminated before it had even been aided...visionary!

Start: Start beneath the R crack underneath the R chimney.

FA: Kim Carrigan (direct)

FA: Chris Dewhirst & John Moore (aid), 1965

FA: Chris Peisker(deviating into the Picking Winners trench for a few metres), 1978

Trad 45m
33 Somalia

Deterred many very strong suitors for many years and finally fell to the Kiwi Wizz kid

FA: Wiz Fineron, 2012

30 Ethiopia

The prime line hereabouts.

Start: Start as for 'India'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Mixed 30m, 3
28 India

Kim cops heaps of crap but by gees he put up some hard classics years ahead of the pack.

Start: Start on the R side of the awe inspiring blank bulging orange face.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1982

Trad 30m
30 Wisdom of Body

Not his finest addition. Brutally hard undercling moves and very, very rarely repeated.

Start: Start as for 'Nose Job'.

Trad 15m
24 Nose Job

In typical Lindorff style this is a plum line, but undergraded and underprotected. Gee it looks good though.

Start: Start 2m R of 'India'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1978

Trad 30m
16 Coming on Chris

A route on this pinnacle for the mere mortal. A fun climb!

FA: Mike Law, 1976

Trad 25m
21 Coming on Chris Direct Finish

Straight up past a bolt instead of traversing L

Trad 20m
23 Winter is Coming

Was a bolted sport route ....looks to be only one bolt now

Hard Awesome Looking Project

Looks bloody desperate.

SportProject 17m, 4
18 Virginia

Steep deep wide crack. Overhangs more than most 18s! Can be bridged without much thrutching, but some large gear can be handy. Stays dry in light rain too.

Start: Start about 20m up the gully R from CoC.

FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967

Trad 25m
25 Yes Please

The pencil thin crack (originally with a manky fixed wire, now with a bolt). After the crack sneak out left and finish up Virginia.

One bolt plus trad. Start: 5m L of Spasm

FA: Chris Shepherd & Michael Collie, 1982

Trad 10m
25 All My Exes Live in Texas

Start 5m Left of Spasm Climb nearly all of Yes Please past it's bolt but instead of escaping left under the roof, do a move right and continue up the wall past two more bolts. There's a stance left of the last bolt, from here traverse right along the horizontal break that leads to the last headwall of Spasm. Finish up this (sideways #7 rock in pocket) to glory. Offers superb sustained climbing if head right from last bolt to undercling on spasm and past both it's dynos.

3 bolts plus a handful of wires (or small-med cams)

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 12 Dec 2014

Mixed 20m, 3
25 Spasm in a Chasm

Unless they've joined into one continuous white streak by now, the white patches and ticks will show you the way. Almost certainly easier for the taller types, it's also harder now than when established because a key foothold during the traverse broke off (it's still 25 though).

Take a medium-to-large sized wire (e.g. #6 sideways or #7 WC rock) for the top (above the big jug) which inconveniently reduces the size of a key hold in a non-grade-altering way. A couple of large RP's in a seam at the start should prevent your belayer following you off the ledge in the event of falling getting to the first bolt. Otherwise, stick clip the first bolt or just don't fall.

Start: Start off the wedged boulder near the highpoint of the chasm.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983

Sport 25m, 3
24 Disbarred

Four bolts on the wall right of spasm. Don't bridge the at the start but do bridge the finish.

FA: Gordon Poultney & Rob Oliver, 2007

Sport 15m, 4
26 Escape

Stem up chimney with feet on one side and hands on the other, to a jug. Then climb the steep line with two new bolts as of 2015.

Start: Start just inside the SE end of the Spasm Chasm.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

Trad 25m
28 The Great Escape

Climb directly into 'Escape' without bridging.

FA: Mike Weeks, 1998

Trad 20m
29 Break & Enter

Up The Great Escape to half height, then R and up.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002

Trad 20m
10 Spasm Squeeze

Climb the chasm right of Spasm by following a finger crack on the left wall which leads up and right through a squeeze. Top out on the road side of Uncle Charlie's via some juggy wide chimneying. Walk off over the chockstone to the Pharos. Protectable, but a pretty tight fit with a harness.

FA: Unknown

Trad 25m

Showing all 32 routes.